Buffalo
Hunting Page 1 | 2
In the late 1860s, settlement began around Buffalo Lake, at Tail
Creek, Boss Hill and the north shore, growing from wintering camps.
Norbert Welsh described life in a winter camp where he spent the winters
of 1863 to 1869. He was working out of Fort Garry (Red River) and
trading in the area known as Round Plain, north and east of the mouth of
the Red Deer River. He described how he built a log storehouse for his
goods, and then a log house. They did not sleep in the house because
they had no way to heat it. The first year there were only three men
there. In the last years, he described a scattering of thirty or forty
"log huts" made of logs, plastered with mud, as their village.
This, then, was how the wintering villages grew. The hunters and
traders found a location where buffalo could still be found, and
returned to it, season after season. The area around Buffalo Lake had
long been a favorite buffalo hunting area. It receives more rain than
further east, and has marshy plains around it. The resulting lush
vegetation may explain why it was said to be the last place in the
northern plains where buffalo were found. Old settlers tell a First
Nations story of the buffalo going into the lake for the winter and not
returning.
The last year Welsh was at Round Plain, the buffalo were very scarce.
"The big herds had disappeared. The Indians almost starved that winter."4
Food was in such short supply that one trader sold pemmican back to the
hunters. "That winter the Indians rode away in all directions, wherever
they heard there were buffalo."5
Peter Erasmus similarly told of a buffalo-hunting trip he took in
1867, hunting south of Goodfish Lake and Saddle Lake. They were
traveling in a mixed camp of twenty teepees, Metis and First Nations
together, with Chief Seenum in charge. They found very few buffalo, only
a few herds of ten to twelve animals.6
Victoria Callihoo told of a buffalo hunt she attended as a
thirteen-year-old girl. The family had earlier lived in Lac Ste Anne,
but had then moved to St. Albert. As she told it:
After the people of Lac Ste Anne planted their vegetable
gardens each spring and by the time the potato leaves were out they
would trundle off in their carts to St. Albert. There the carts were
loaded with things they needed for the plains, including tent poles,
firewood, birch bark and flint. They picked up friends and
relatives, and then continued on to Edmonton where more people
joined the group. A priest usually accompanied his flock. At some
point, the leading men met and chose a leader for the hunt from
amongst themselves. He flew a flag over his cart to identify his
authority. The party traversed the North Saskatchewan River, carts,
children, horses, oxen and all their baggage until they came to
where the Provincial Legislature now stands. That crossing must have
been quite a sight! Some one hundred people then headed south to set
up camps in the region north of Red Deer where the last remaining
herds of bison still roamed. The carts were placed in a circle as a
kind of defensive barrier, because the Aboriginal People of the
plains very much resented the incursion of the Metis into their
territories. The horses also needed to be guarded at night.
Ironically, the best horses were obtained by barter from the
Blackfoot.
The hunting method was to run the bison down on horseback and
shoot them. Some people had muzzle-loaders with caps, others had
single barreled flintlocks. The animals were then butchered and the
meat hung up to dry. It was later dumped onto a buffalo hide and
pounded to a pulp by four men. Melted grease and berries were added
to improve the flavour and food value. In some places, birch trees
were tapped to get the sap to run out. It was made into sugar and
added. This concentrated dried mixture, called "pemmican", was a
very important staple in the diet of people in the West. Some people
obtained enough meat at this time for the winter. Others returned to
the hunt in the fall after the hay was in, while "hivernants"
(winterers) spent the winters at Buffalo Lake where bison had been
hunted for thousands of years." 7
For the northern plains, that was the last of the buffalo herds. For
the area around Buffalo Lake, the time marked a transition from hunting
to settlement, as had earlier occurred on the Battle River. Descendants
of the some of those buffalo hunters who settled there still live in the
area. Tail Creek had lasted for about a decade.
Norbert Welsh and his family followed the last of the buffalo to the
Cyprus Hills. Some Metis followed the buffalo into Montana, but were
forced to return. The buffalo hunting days were over.
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Life at Red River
Western Settlements
Buffalo
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