Mounting the Left Coil

The procedure is not quite the same for both coils. We'll do the left side first.

Begin removing the left-side, stock coil by unplugging the two sparkplugs of the rear cylinder. Then open or cut any wire-ties that are holding the plug wires to the frame.

Next, disconnect the two little wires from the left coil. You don't have to keep track of which wire goes where--as long as you keep the wires for the left coil from ending up on the right-side coil.

Now unscrew the little bolt at the coil's forward end.

The coil and plug-wire assembly can now be removed. Do this by swinging the bolt-end of the coil away from the bike enough to allow you to wiggle the other end forward and out of its rubber mount.

Set the coil assembly aside.

Remove the rubber mount from the rear bracket (photo above). Clean it. Then use a sharp blade to slice an 'X' through the flat back. This will enable the long end of the new coil to pierce through the end of the rubber mount.

Tip: Actually, I sliced the flat back of the rubber mount completely out. This made it a little easier to slide the coil in, I think. But it also made the rubber mount prone to coming out of its seat when I tried to work the new coil in.

Now lubricate the inside of the mount with a rubber dressing or dielectric grease, and reinstall it back into its bracket.

Next, familiarize yourself with one of the new coils. It doesn't matter which one; they are interchangeable.

The new coil has a long, square, center mounting post, running through the length of the coil--similar to the stock one. However, one side of the post sticks out longer, and has two bolt holes. See photo above. The new coil also has two, brass screws for mounting the input-wire terminals.

Open the small parts package that came with your new coils and take out two terminal-posts. Then mount them onto the coil, via the two, brass mounting screws.

As you tighten the screws, hold the terminal-posts so they are oriented out, sideways. See photo example below. This will make it easy to slide on the little input-wire connectors, once the coil is mounted. I oriented my upper terminal-post slightly up, and my lower terminal-post slightly down, which also made easier to slide on the input-wires.

Next attach the sparkplug wires to the coil. Find the two longest plug wires, put some dielectric grease on the metal terminals inside the 90* boot, and then push a 90* boot over each of the coil’s plug-wire nipples. Push them all the way on, until you can feel the terminal engage inside the coil.

Now lubricate the long-side of the coil's square mounting post with a little dielectric grease to make it easier to slide in. Then install the new coil. To do this, push the long side of the square mounting post into, and through, the rubber mount. Hold the rubber mount so it doesn’t get pulled through its bracket.

Keep wiggling and pushing the coil through the rubber mount until you can swing the coil into place. It's tight, but take your time. Then line up the bolt hole in the short end of the coil's square mounting post with the threaded bolt bracket on the bike's frame.

Screw in and tighten the small mounting bolt.

Push the input-wire connectors into the terminals on the coil. It makes no difference which wire goes to which terminal. However, if you are following the normal, stock convention, by wiring your left coil to the rear cylinder, be sure you've got the input-wire pair that includes a yellow wire.

Your left coil should now look like the photo below.