Rejet Your Carburetor

The jetting is not terribly complicated if you remember this: 

Do not disconnect the throttle Position sensor from the Carburetor. 

• Remove the nut that holds the choke cable on the left side, and remove the cable from the bracket. 
• Remove the idle adjusting cable from its bracket. 
• Disconnect the gas line at the carburetor. 
• Completely loosen the throttle cables. 
• Unplug the two electric leads to the carburetor heater on the bottom of the carb. 
• Now loosen up the clamp that holds the carb in the rubber boot. 
• With a pull and wiggle motion the carb will come out of the boot. 
• Tilt it slightly to the left and remove the throttle cables. The cables align with a groove and slide out. 
• Keep a rag under the carb as gas will come out when you rotate it. 
• With the cables now off, rotate the carb to the right until it is upside down. 
• You have to loosen the brass carburetor heater to remove the bowl. Caution, when you tighten the heater back up, be very careful
  not to tighten it too much, they break quite easily. 
• You have to remove the four screws from the bowl to remove it. They are soft headed screws and strip quite easily. 
• I used a good set of needle nose vise grips to break the tightness of the screws. 
• Others have used a Dremel grinding tool with a cut-off wheel and cut a slot for a slotted screwdriver, or even cut the head off if worse comes to worse.
• Replace with Allen head screws.
• Remove the screws.
• When removing the bowl lift it straight up and be careful not to hit the floats.

• Remove the jet with a flat blade screw driver and put in your new main jet. 
• Replace the float bowl being careful not to hit the floats.
• Use the Barons allen head screws to secure the bowl. 
• Tighten the Heater back up....lightly. 
• Now you have to remove the brass plug from the Pilot mixture screw housing, if it has not been removed already. This is a tubular housing that rises from behind the bowl in the middle.  It should have a brass plug with a small hole in the middle. 
• The Baron gives you a drill bit to drill the hole larger. 
  Be careful not to drill into it too far and hit the screw below. 
• Use the metal screw the Baron gave you to screw into the brass plug.
• Use a set of vise grips to grab the screw and wiggle the plug out. 
• You will see a small flat head screw inside.
• With the carb upside down, tighten the screw clockwise until it lightly seats.
• Now back the screw out three and one half turns. 
• Now put the carb back into the boot, placing the throttle cables in place before you insert it into the rubber boot. 
• Tighten the clamp. 

Needle Replacement

• Now remove the two screws that hold the black plastic cap on the top.  The cap will rise because of the slide spring under it.
• Remove the cap and remove the long spring. The slide is connected to the rubber diaphragm.
  It just lifts straight out the top. 
• With the slide removed, look inside the slide. You'll see a plastic tab.  Grab the tab with a needle nose pliers and wiggle and pull straight outward.  Be careful as not to break the tab by pulling at an odd angle.  It will pop out as it is held in with only an O ring.  It should have a small spring connected to it. 
  Now the needle is ready to come out.
• Push the needle up and grab the end. When you have a hold of the needle, turn the slide upside down and finish removing it so the washer and spacer don't fall off the end. 
• Now take your new needle and place the clip on the indicated groove the Baron has recommended.  Always count down from the top.
• Place the white plastic spacer under the clip from the stock needle.
• Do not use the washer under the spacer as was on the stock needle.
• Put a washer on the top of the clip. Now insert it back into the slide and press the plastic tab with the spring back in.
• Make sure the rubber diaphragm is seated properly with the O ring towards the rear. 
• Put the slide spring back in and replace the cap and tighten the screws. 
• Connect the two electrical leads to the heater
• connect the gas line
• Put the choke cable back in the bracket, and the idle cable back in it's bracket
• Your finished with the carb.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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Comments (10)

Written by Baz64, on 02-03-2016 23:15 Thanks for the notes. I followed it to the letter and it was easy as. Didn't change the air bleed though, left that stock for now. Great advice.

Not sure what jet is in my carb Written by 02 Roadstar, on 08-09-2013 02:52 I bought my 02 /1600 in February . The guy I bought it from had told me it was a stage 2 jet kit. He had cobra slash cut short drag pipes and a K&N filter on it. I have since put stock pipes back on it and drilled (6) 1/2" holes around baffles and also drilled the cones the same way and reinstalled the cones for a clean look. I am also going to port the manifold if its not already done.    Now the bike has a strong rich smelling exhaust and likes to cough when I take off from an idle. After I get moving it seems to be fine but it still has a strong exhaust . I purchased a stage 1-2 dynojet kit . So to be on the safe side what jet should I use? Also are the instructions in the kit gonna tell me about all the adjustments needed ?

Not sure what jet is in my carb Written by 02 Roadstar, on 08-09-2013 01:23 I bought my 02 /1600 in February . The guy I bought it from had told me it was a stage 2 jet kit. He had cobra slash cut short drag pipes and a K&N filter on it. I have since put stock pipes back on it and drilled (6) 1/2" holes around baffles and also drilled the cones the same way and reinstalled the cones for a clean look. I am also going to port the manifold if its not already done.    Now the bike has a strong rich smelling exhaust and likes to cough when I take off from an idle. After I get moving it seems to be fine but it still has a strong exhaust . I purchased a stage 1-2 dynojet kit . So to be on the safe side what jet should I use? Also are the instructions in the kit gonna tell me about all the adjustments needed ?

Back Firing Written by Groundhog, on 04-03-2012 23:19 Have an 07 Roadstar,with V and H pipes on,anytime when i take the hand off my thottle,Yamaha Tech,told me that one of my Valves are sticking,so they replaced Valves,but it still backfiring,also when i pull out my Choke cable and have Bike running,Choke cable goes in from alone without me pushing it back.  Someone else has Problems like that?or maybe someone can Help me?

Written by joe q, on 03-30-2012 19:51 my buddy has a 2001 roadstar that coughs when accelarating when he pulls the choke out a little bike runs great should I just rich the mixture or is something more serious

carb Written by rs1700, on 02-21-2012 15:19 just wondering if anyone ever had the answer to my question regarding rejetting my stock 1700 roadstar...

2007 stock roadstar carb Written by rs1700, on 11-25-2011 11:16 I would like to know which jets and what size jets to change on my STOCK roadstar,everything is STOCK except the pilot AIR jet which I changed to allow less AIR to make it RICHER. this corrected 90 percent of the problem but now I need to know about the FUEL jets inside the carb(what ones and what size).Thankyou.

Matching carb to pipes. Written by bdriver, on 11-20-2011 23:31 Just purchased a 2001 Road Star. Near as I can tell its all stock except for Vance and Hines Long Shot pipes. I'm installing Smartpartz baffles to quiet them down. The carb looks like its never been touched. Do I need to rejet the carb with this combo? Which jets and what size would you recommend? Thanks for your help.

Can do Written by charlyme, on 05-29-2011 13:57 I rebuilt a Holy 4 blb on a 68 Chevy and had to buy a rebuilt  "Reprinted by permission from Mr. Tidy's Tech Tips"    I changed my air intake and out on my 05 Rd.* 1700 and needed to rejet carb. Had my concerns due to above but took my time and followed " tech above and had no problems bike is runing great    Thank you much

Answers Written by javelinahaj, on 11-08-2010 17:12 The questions have already been asked, where do I find the replies?

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