Removing the Cylinder Assemblies

Using the service manual as a guide, remove, label, and store all head bolts, both heads, and all alignment dowels. Try to not pull the cylinders up with the heads. See tips below.

Tip: If your heads are difficult to remove, use a wooden or rubber tool handle (like a hammer handle) inserted deep in to the head's exhaust port. Work the handle firmly up and down to break the seal on the head gasket. This can take significant force, but be careful not to damage any surface.

Tip: Do not apply excessive pressure on cooling fins. They can bend or break.

Labeling Tips: I just put all my head bolts in one yogurt container. I put all the alignment dowels in my one, dowel baggie. Heads do not need to be labeled unless you will be performing a valve job. Head gaskets do not need labeling, as they are not reused.

Take pictures.

Now slide the cylinders up and off the pistons, one at a time. As you do this, protect the pistons with some rags between the piston and the cylinder studs. Be sure to label each cylinder immediately. Mark cylinders (‘F’ for front, and ‘R’ for rear. Or ‘2’ for front, and ‘1’ for rear).

If you intend to reinstall the same pistons again, do the following:

• Use a marker to mark each piston as you did the cylinder.
• Also mark the piston orientation--an arrow pointing forward will do. Use a small screwdriver, awl, or other tool, to remove the wrist-pin retainer from the left side of one piston.

Tip: There is a notch in the piston to help you get a small tool in to flip the retainer out. If you can rotate the retainer so that one of the ends is near this notch, removal may be easier. See photo below.

Safety Warning: It will take significant force to remove the retainer. Sometimes they flip out with great force. Protect your eyes.

Tip: I recommend you always replace the retainers with new ones. It is very cheap insurance against a warped or weakened retainer. The Parts and Tools article in this series has the part numbers.

Now push the wrist pin out from the right side. The wrist pin can be stuck with the oil’s sticky film, so it may take some patience and force to get it out--but do not force it too hard; pistons are delicate. Also, be sure to hold the piston as you remove the pin, as the piston is only held in place by the pin.

Repeat wrist pin removal for the other piston.

Put each piston and wrist pin in a baggie, and store them with the other parts, for each cylinder. If you will be reusing pistons, be sure not to get them mixed up!

Stuff some rags around the connecting rods to prevent them from damaging themselves or the cases.

To access related articles, refer back to the Complete Engine Tear Down, Orientation article in this series to see which additional article(s) best addresses your situation.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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