This article is one of a series that describes how to disassemble, work on, and reassemble the Road Star engine. This particular article describes how tear down the cams assembly. See the Complete Engine Tear Down, Orientation article in this website for details.

Be sure you refer to the service manual through all phases of this project.

Note: This document uses the term "lifter" as synonymous with "tappet".

Remove, label, and store each lifter. To remove a lifter, reach down the lifter barrel with a pick tool, a piece of stiff wire, or needle-nose pliers. There is a thin wire in the lifter top you can grab. Pull the lifter up and out.

Note: If you have roller lifters, you must first remove the 'anti-rotation bars' (the retainers in the center of each lifter block with the arrow on it). These retainers bars may have been installed using red/perminent thread-lock, in which case you will likely need to heat the screws a little to get them out without damage. Remove, bag, label, and store these parts. See photo of the Speedstar Roller Cam Kit (minus the anti-rotation bars) and photo of installed anti-rotation bars below.

If you will be re-using your lifters, be sure to label them so you can guarantee they will be put back in the same barrels they came out of. Cover and store the lifters, standing on end, if possible.

If you have no need to remove the lifter blocks--such as powdercoating, crankcase machining, or nearby welding--you may skip this section.

Label a medium sized baggie, "Lifter Block Parts." Then, remove and bag the two bolts that secure each lifter block. If the lifter block caps come free, you can bag them, too. Note: Only flat tappet, 1999-2003 models have the caps. See photo below.

Then, remove both lifter blocks by pulling up and twisting them. They are held in via two, large O-rings. Unless necessary for your particular job, leave the O-rings on the lifter blocks. In any case, wrap each block in paper for protection, and store all items in the baggie.

Next, examine the tops of the lifter block bases on the engine. There should be a tiny O-ring resting in a shallow recess of each block base. Use tweezers or a pick tool to carefully remove the O-rings and place them into the baggie.

Stuff a rag or rubber glove into each lifter block base to prevent small parts from disappearing into the crankcase.

Remove the two bolts of the decompression selenoid cover, and place all three--bolts and cover--in a marked baggie.

Remove the two bolts and the two, brown, dielectric washers of the decompression selenoid, and place all four in the same marked baggie. Store the baggie.

Let the decompression selenoid just hang down, for now.

Next, remove the cam's chrome, outer cover, assembly.

Tip: You won't have to remove the little, circular, 'Yamaha' cover or the decompression lever. They'll both come out with the cover. Just be careful not to put much pressure on the decompression lever, as it is easily bent.

Stuff a rag or rubber glove into the bottom of the cam area to prevent small parts from disappearing into the crankcase. Label a sandwich baggie, "Cam Area Small Parts."

Extract the small, solid aluminum, alignment dowels from the engine case or the cover, and store them in the baggie.

The cams' drive/driven gears are now exposed. Extract both decompression needles and place them in the baggie. See photo below.

Next, remove the nut and washer in the center of the driven gear--the bigger one. Now, pull the gear off its shaft. As you do this, be careful to keep track of the tiny, shaft, straight-key. See photo below.

Store the key in the "Cam Area Small Parts" baggie.

Repeat this process for the cam drive gear. Note: It has a tiny key, as well.

Next, remove the large front-cam retainer-washer by removing its two little bolts. Refer to the photo below. Store these three in the "Cam Area Small Parts" baggie.

Now, remove the seven bolts securing the cam cover. Then remove the cover. As you do this, be very careful that the cams do not fall out. You can prevent this by pressing the ends of the cams as you extract the cover. Just be careful as you go; cam surfaces are very delicate.

Remove the cams.

Re-install the drive/driven gears, nut, bolt, and washers--hand tight only--onto the ends of the cams. Then wrap, label, and store each cam.

Next, remove the brass, cam oil delivery tube (and its two O-rings) from the cam cover, unless you have no need to remove the tube--such as powdercoating, crankcase machining, or nearby welding. To remove the tube, just push and wiggle the it out from the inside. See photo below.

Place the parts into the "Cam Area Small Parts" baggie, then securely seal and store the baggie.

To access related articles, refer back to the Complete Engine Tear Down, Orientation article in this series to see which additional articles best address your situation.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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