Installing the Stator and Generator Cover Assembly

Now is a good time to clean the generator cover gasket surfaces of old gasket remnants. Do this for the gasket surface of the engine case, as well as the generator cover. Be sure to wipe up any particles that may fall in. Be sure you clean off all silicone remnants from the oil seals and cover, too.

If you separated the oil delivery pipe from the generator cover--for some reason--bolt them back together. Be sure both ends of the oil delivery pipe have their O-rings installed.

If you removed the stator from the inside of the generator cover, do the following:

• Bolt the stator back into the inside of the cover. Torque the torx bolts to 5.1 ft-lbs, which is 61.2 in-lbs--not too tight. Be sure to use blue thread-lock on the bolt threads.
• Now apply RTV (silicone) gasket maker to the two, rubber, oil seals and push them in to place. See photo above. Do not wait for the gasket maker to dry. Assemble the rest of the parts right away. This will hold the oil seals tightly in place while the gasket maker dries.
• Next, re-install the stator wire bracket inside the generator cover. See photo below.

Insert the two alignment dowels for the generator cover into the engine case. Then slip a new gasket over the dowels.

Tip: The generator cover is magnetized to the generator rotor. As soon as you begin installing the cover, it will be sucked in by magnetic force.

Bolt and torque the generator cover on, using 7.2 ft-lbs, which is 86.4 in-lbs. The long bolt nearest the oil delivery tube has a copper or aluminum washer. I recommend you install a new washer at this point. I didn't, and it leaked.

Bolt and torque the oil-delivery-pipe back into its hole in the right-side of the engine case, using 7.2 ft-lbs of torque, which is 86.4 in-lbs. Again, be sure it has its O-ring installed. See photo below.

Now run the stator wires back into the corrugated wiring tube. Pull the wires through the tube. Then route the wires behind the rear of the engine, and up to the point of connection under the side-cover area, near the bike’s center.

Smear some dielectric grease into the contact points of both connectors and then connect them.

To access related articles, refer back to the Complete Engine Tear Down, Orientation article in this series to see which additional articles best address your situation.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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