Preparation for AIS
- Place the plugs in the Freezer overnight, this will shrink the material for an easier install.
- Optional parts removal. Gas tank, left side cover, also you may want to MOVE (It is not necessary to unplug rectifier/regulator from wire harness) the ignition rectifier for easier access to the smog equipment (zip tie the unbolted rectifier out of the way)
- You'll be removing all these smog parts, including elbows and hoses off the bike. 1. Leave the vacuum tube intact, and insert a golf tee into the open end. -OR- 2. Remove the vacuum tube from the manifold vacuum tap, and use some sort of rubber cap to plug the tap. more on this later
Removing the elbows.
Locate the elbow fittings that have hoses connected to them. Disconnect the hoses from the elbows and let them hang until you get the elbows out. (excluding the one from the manifold that will be plugged with a golf tee )
If possible, spray the elbows with Freon. If not possible, grab with vise grips or automotive dent puller and slowly work back and forth until they come out. some people have recommended using screwdriver or wooden dowel along with a hammer to pound the elbow out from the right side of the bike. Personally, I used a 3 foot long, 1" diameter wooden dowel to get the elbows moving... I then used some vise grips to twist them around and finally yank them out... they weren't budging though before I whacked them from the right side of the bike.
Removing the Hoses and Smog Canister.
Finish removing the hoses including the black canister that the other end of the hoses are connected to.
- To install the plugs:
- Cut a one foot long piece of a 1 inch diameter wooden dowel.
- Remove the plugs out of the freezer.
- Push the small end of the plug into the front hole and the back hole with your hand.
- Rest the end of the cut wooden dowel on the plug and hammer the wood until the plug is flush with the cylinder. (easy taps until all the way in)
- Temporarily remove the regulator for easier access to the AIS System.
- Remove the rest of the plumbing and AIS system.
- After all of the smog equipment has been removed, notice there is a tube (vacuum line) that was attached to the black canister. YOU MUST PLUG THAT TUBE WITH A SCREW or GOLF TEE (or your motor will not run properly). Either will work perfect
- Tuck the vacuum line under the gas tank.
- Congratulations! You are finished! Don't forget to reinstall the rectifier if you moved it out of the way.
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DISCLAIMER:
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
always
be performed by a
professional mechanic.
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
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Thank you!
Written by alang.co, on 07-31-2015 15:39
I used these instructions to remove the AIS on my 2003 last night, and it cured my backfire/popping on deceleration with my Sideburner exhaust. Now I don't have to hang my head in shame when riding around town!!!  |
removed AIS on 2002 ROADSTAR Midnight..m
Written by Lug Nut, on 05-23-2015 23:20
I bypassed the AIS a week ago and it completely cured the popping on deceleration. I ordered the Barons kit after looking for cheaper plugs and not finding any. I managed to remove the elbow fittings without damage...using PB Blaster and locking vice grips...and a 2 ft. Long breaker bar and 5 lb brass sledge hammer to coax them a little. Funniest thing...I got the elbows out intact and they could easily be reused. The only issue I had was one of the larger screws was stubborn and I had to use a hammer and chisel to knock it loose. I cut some length of the vacuum hose that remains, and plugged the end with a SS bolt and zip tied it up and out of the way. Easy mod and definitely worthwhile.
I put the plugs in a deep freezer for a couple hours and fired the motor up to expand the metal on the head before I stalling the plugs...worked perfect and did not take too much hammer to set them in tight. |
AIS 2009 Roadie Silverado
Written by Steele31, on 05-13-2015 23:20
I have a 2009 Silverado with EFI, 1700 engine. The more research I do, the more it sounds like this is a positive step to take. My question, since most article or posts that I see, are for carburated motors. Will this affect an EFI fuel system? Will the the system need remapped at all? I have the Barons kit for my bike. Any pointers would be great thanx folks! |
Written by gggGary, on 01-19-2015 18:31
Them there elbows didn't want to come out. The barbs tore off before I even got the stems to twist. Finally turned the stem with vice grips so I could fit a heavy tapered pin into the hole in from the RH side and beat them out. Grabbed the angle grinder, cut the stems off straight about 1/4" above the flange, migged the hole shut and drove them back in, done. |
AIS Removal
Written by sgfusco, on 09-04-2014 12:37
What is the benefit of removal of AIS |
AIS
Written by n8pturner, on 11-20-2013 23:36
Should I do this on my 07' rodie, what about this chirp noise? Don't want to remove one problem and create another. |
still backfiring
Written by BruceMill, on 04-24-2012 16:50
still backfiring!!! a lot more  |
Success for me too
Written by Don Dickinson, on 12-30-2011 16:37
I did this today. Took maybe an hour ... most of that time was spent trying to make sure i know exactly what parts were coming out. Using the 1" dowel to hammer the joints out from the right side was key. I had the baron's kit and the plugs went in easily by in using the included aluminum rod and hitting it with a hammer. came close to stripping one of the philips screws, but i figured out a larger head screw driver was needed before it became a big problem. wow that is a lot of stuff that comes out! i am much appreciated for the picture above that shows what you can throw away after doing this.
thanks,
don |
AIS cylinder caps .45 casings
Written by Dishington, on 07-02-2011 16:46
Do I need to fill these casings with something - or can I just install them hollow? 2002 roadstar |
AIS REMOVED FROM A 2001 ROADSTAR
Written by workharddieproud, on 04-17-2010 22:07
I BOUGHT THE BARRON'S AIS KIT AND USED THESE INSTRUCTION'S AND NOT THE ONE THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. I HAD TROUBLE GETTING THE BACK AND FRONT ELBOW OUT, I WAS ABLE TO TURN THEM BUT, I HAD TO BEND THEM DOWN AND HIT THEM WITH A HAMMER PRETTY HARD TO KEEP BENDING THEM DOWN. ALSO I DID PUT THE TWO PLUG'S THAT CAME WITH THE KIT IN THE FREEZER OVER NIGHT, THE PLUG IN THE BACK I COULD DRIVE IN FAIRLY EASY, BUT THE ONE IN THE FRONT TOOK SOME TIME AND MUSCLE WITH THE USE OF A REGULAR HAMMER, I GUESS I SPENT ABOUT THREE HOUR'S TOTAL, DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE GAS TANK. |
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