Fabricate your own highway bars for 25 bucks

I like to rest my feet on top of the highway bars; however, if you like to hook your heel on the highway bars be VERY careful as the right hand side puts your heel very close to the brake and you can apply the brake from this position. You may want to raise the bar 1 more inch - see the end of the article how I'd suggest how to make this change.

Items needed:

• Yamaha passenger pegs left over from putting on passenger floor boards. Take them apart and save all the pieces.
• A three foot piece of 1 inch square steel (available at Lowes for 10 bucks).
• A three foot piece 1 1/4 inch angle steel (available at Lowes for 9 bucks).
• Two 1/4 inch bolts, 1 1/2 inches in length, with washers and nuts  (1 dollar).
• One can of Rust-Oleum black textured spray paint (5 bucks) or any other paint of your choice.

Tools needed:

• Electric drill with drill bits.
• Jig saw with metal cutting blade (you can also use a Dremmel or Sawsall, or even a hack saw if you're strong enough!)
• Something to sand down burs. I used a Dremmel.
• Basic tools such as: screw driver, 14mm wrench or socket, 7/16 wrench.
• Thread locking compound, such as Loctite, Permatex

How to do it:

Cut two 8 inch pieces from the angle steel (top two pieces in the figure below).  I used both ends so that I could take advantage of the machine cut ends as the top.

Cut a 25 inch piece from the box steel (bottom piece in the figure below).

Here's a picture of the frame bolts to which the highway bars are attached. I didn't take out all 4 bolts at once, but would work on one side and then the other. I don't know if the engine will shift if you take out all 4, but I didn't want to find out.

In the 8 inch angle steel, I drilled a hole with a 7/16 inch drill bit about 1/8 inch from the cut end.  This end will be the bottom when mounted; the machine cut end will be the top.  The hole is very close to the outside corner. Also pay attention to which side of the angle you drill as you want the angle to cover the front of the frame and be on the inside of the frame. The second hole will be 2 inches up from the first. I'd strongly suggest you measure your own frame bolts just to be sure.

5. On the other end of the angle (the machine cut end, the top) and the other side where the first holes are - drill a hole with a 5/16 drill bit (big enough for the 1/4 inch bolts to fit through). I centered the holes in the angle leg and came down about 1/2 inch so that the box steel would be flat with the top of the angle steel.

6. This is how the angle steel pieces mount to the frame.

4. The box steel mounts to the angle steel at the two top holes.  Measure the distance between two tops holes and transfer this distance making sure the holes are evenly space from the center.  Drill two 5/16th holes.

5.  Using the foot pegs, mark where you want to drill holes in the end of the box steel.  Drill the holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit - keep in mind, that my holes were not centered in the box but actually down a little bit here's a picture of the orientation of the foot peg and the hole.  Test fit the hole with the pins from the original pegs.

6. Dry fit everything make sure nothing is rubbing.

7. Remove everything, clean, sand and paint.  I like the textured paint because it hides some of the imperfections in the steel.  Here's the painted product reassembled loosely.

7. Put the highway bars on bike being careful not to scratch anything.  Tighten the bolts. Test drive and show off to your friends how really cheap you are.

How to raise it one more inch:

Using the angle steel left over, cut a piece that will span between the 2 angle steel on the bike.  Attach this piece to the angle steel on the bike with the flat piece of the steel on the top.  Attach the box steel to the top of the angle steel you just attached.  Keep in mind you must drill another set of holes in the box steel on the other side (the bottom) than you did for the original.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

Comments (7)

Still having a problem with the wiggle i Written by clifdog, on 02-21-2006 13:41 Got any suggestions on how to take out the wiggling? When I put my feet on them they shift toward the front wheel making it a slightly awkward angle on my feet.     Thanks,  Clifdog

Great Idea, Great On The Bike Written by clifdog, on 01-16-2006 20:24 I just made my $25 highway bars and I am stoked. They turned out great. What a difference when getting on a straight section of road. It completely changes your riding posture and provides for much greater comfort on those long rides. This was a great idea and is way better than those over priced bars.

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