I‘m from Germany so please excuse my English and the spelling.
The following procedure is a combination of the Information I gathered from the RoadStar Forum and from the way I did it. I recommend to study the applicable sections in the maintenance manual on page 5-60 and 5-100 to get familiar with the parts.
Disclaimer: This procedure is for information only. It shows how I did it and it has worked for me but it is up to you and your responsibility to decide how you are doing it. Always use the manual for correct references and procedures.
You will find steps in there which a professional mechanic does not need but which where helpful for a “I do it the first time“ mechanic like me.
OK lets get started.
Tools and Materials used:
- Bike lift
- 5mm Allen key wrench
- 10mm socket 3/8” drive
- 5mm Allen key socket 3/8” drive
- 30mm socket 3/8” drive
- Sort and long extension for ratchet
- Ratchet 3/8” drive
- 17mm comb. Wrench
- Torque wrench (min. 5lbs-50lbs)
- Pair of pliers (big enough to grap the 30 mm nut)
- Engine oil
- Oil filter
- Oil container catch
- gasket from Yamaha
- small punch
- flathead screwdriver
- Putty knife, stiff blade
- Barnett clutch
- Oil pump shaft gear
- Cardboard box
- Edding Marker
- One way rubber gloves, I just like to walk away from a job with clean hands :-)
- Note: The numbers in parentheses ( ) correspond to the manual item numbers where applicable.
- Put bike in neutral
- Raise bike on lift
- Drain engine oil (17mm comb. Wrench)
- Remove shift rod
- Remove clutch cable from pull lever
- Remove pull lever (2) and pull lever spring (3) . Bolt must be out for removal.
- Remove clutch cable holder (6)
- Take the cardboard box and draw a sketch of the clutch cover on it. Mark the position of the bolts on it.
- Remove left side engine cover (stock color is gray) and stick the bolts into the cardboard box. This is a very easy method for not loosing or mixing up the bolts
- Remove clutch cover (7) (keep track of the dowels) and stick the bolts into the cardboard box. I have also unplugged the connector of the cable since is was easy accessible, bike was almost completely apart anyway. This makes the removal of the old gasket easier but is not really necessary.
The clutch cover is off (keep track of the dowels)
- Remove the 6 hex head bolts in stages and in crisscross pattern from and the clutch spring plate retainer (1) [10mm socket]
- Remove as an assy the clutch spring plate (2), clutch spring plate seat (3), pressure plate (4), and the pull rod (5). [if you’re just doing the clutch conversion go to step 24]
The spring plate assy is removed.
- There is a double notch in one of the cogs of the plates and they must match up to the embossed double circles on the clutch housing. Must be installed same way!!!! I removed the friction (6) and clutch plates (7) from the clutch housing (16) to gain better access to the nut that needs to be removed.
The double notch must match up to the embossed double circles on the clutch housing.
- Bend the lock washer (8) with a screwdriver and flatten it with the punch and the hammer so you can turn the nut that holds the clutch boss(14),thrust washer (15) and clutch housing (16).
- Remove the nut while holding the clutch boss (15). I bought a tool to hold it. Others used a big screw driver or had someone holding it. I did it by my own and didn‘t want to risk to brake anything and to have finally more to invest as 23 bucks for the appropriate tool. Anyway it‘s up to you how you do it.
Note: Mark the position of the lock washer to the spline. You will know why when you assemble it.
Removal of the nut using the clutch holder.
- Slip the entire clutch housing (16), (15), (14), (13), (12), (11), (10), (9) off the shaft. And there it is - the Oil Pump Gear.
Clutch is removed and Oil Pump Gear is exposed.
- Remove the two allen bolts [5mm allen key] and removed the engine oil pump driven gear stopper (3) and the gear (4). See Manual page 5-100.
- Lubricate and install the new gear and reinstall. Ensure gear is seated properly
- Torque allen bolts with 7.2 ft-lb.
- Clean old gasket off of engine casing and clutch cover (7)
- Install the clutch housing(16).The easiest way to match the gears is to turn the oil pump gear by sticking your finger on the bottom between clutch housing and engine housing.
Reinstallation of clutch housing.
- Install Thrust washer (15), clutch boss (14) ,lock washer (8) in the marked position and 30mm nut. Torque nut with 50 ft-lb. Bend tap of lock washer flat along one side of the nut. Bad luck if the position is no good. Open the nut and rotate the lock washer. I had to re do it once since the original torque was a little low. However, was easy to do with the right tooling. Use the Pair of pliers to bent / press the tap fully against the nut.
- Reinstall the friction (6) and clutch plates (7). Remember, the double notch must match up to the embossed double circles on the clutch housing. See step 13
- Place pull rod (5) in the Barnett pressure plate. Lubricate pressure plate mating surface with friction plate.
Note: There is a lot of play between push rod and the bearing but don‘t be afraid there is nothing missing.
- Install Barnett pressure plate and springs and washers using the original bolts. It probably won‘t fit the first time and you will have a gap between the friction plate and the Barnett pressure plate. Rotate the pressure plate until it fits without gap.
- Tighten the bolts in stages and in crisscross pattern to 5,8 ft-lb.
Note: I placed two 10mm nuts in the socket to reduce the depth of the socked. Makes the installation of the bolts much easier since you have to press on the bolt head.
Barnett Clutch and push rod installed.
- Install dowel pins if removed.
- Install gasket, clutch cover and clutch cable holder (6). It‘s a little tricky to align push rod and the lever shaft in the engine cover. Just take your time. It will fit.
- Check if the lever shaft is properly engaged. It can be turned back and force about 3/8“.
- Install the bolts. Tighten to 7,2 ft-lb in stages and in crisscross pattern
- Turn the clutch lever shaft counter clockwise by hand.
- Install the pull lever (2) without pull lever spring (3) in order to get 31,8 mm (1,25“) distance between clutch cable holder and lever.
- Remove clutch lever (2) and reinstall together pull lever spring (3) in the marked position.
31.8 mm (1.25") distance between cable holder and lever.
That's it. The rest should be easy if you got this far.
Please mail questions or any feedback to email@example.com
Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below).
The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions
answered there. If you would like to leave feedback
for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use
the comment section at the bottom of this page.
Discuss this article on the forums. (9 posts)
This information and procedure is provided
as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.
Neither the publishers nor the authors
accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or
suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated
with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs
SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL,
INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY
CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.
Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should
be performed by a
If performed incorrectly,
this procedure may
endanger the safety of you and others
on your motorcycle and possibly
invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
Quote this article on your site | Views: 55784
Written by G_Conway, on 02-08-2018 17:46
The bolts should be torqued to BETWEEN 5 and 8 Ft/Lb NOT 5.8
I just bought one, not installed yet.
|Euro decimal notation|
Written by Stach53, on 09-06-2015 15:26
Well done, easy to follow article. Changing to the Barnett pressure plate solved the clutch slippage issue on my 06 Roady. I would like to note I was a bit confused by the torque setting e.g.. 5,8. It finally hit me that the author is German and they use the comma like we use the decimal point. Translation, 5.8 ft/lbs.
Written by Savagegordo, on 01-18-2014 11:30
i am in the middle of replacing my clutch with a new barnett clutch pack and plate like the one done here. My new clutches do not have the dimples in them like the onees thatcame out anyone else have this issue? As far as i can tell all of the tabs are the same size
Written by heims6, on 03-08-2013 23:05
Thank you to everyone that contributed to this post especially Wildfred. Reading this gave me the confidence to replace the clutch plates, friction plates, and the stock spring with Barnett parts. It really feels like my bike has made huge leaps in power. The bike was slipping in 3rd and now it will break loose in second without much effort. Anybody thinking about trying this, just do it.
|Replacing Stock clutch with stock the Ya|
Written by old_mikee, on 11-05-2012 20:42
I just replaced my 50k miles stock clutch with another "genuine Yamaha" stock clutch, purchased online from S. Seattle Yamaha because it was starting to slip. Installation was straight forward except for one discrepanary bit of instruction in the Yamaha Service Manual, which I will do my best to explain here.
During assembly, I could not get the new clutch plates to seat at the bottom of the clutch basket. They were placed in their specified location in accordance to the Yamaha Service Manual.
The tabs with the two dimples, bound against the side of the slot in the clutch basket marked with the corresponding two dimples, again as per instructions. (When measured with calipers, I found that all the plate tabs measured .625 except the dimpled tabs, which were slightly wider by .006 or so, I don't exactly remember at this writing)
After measuring all the basket slotsI found, just like the plates all the slots were exactly the same size except for one wider slot. On my 2004 Roadstar it happens to be 180 degrees from the specified slot, the one marked to accept the dimpled discs.
When I disassembled the clutch, I had marked the basket as to where the dimpled tabs came from, and indeed, it is the same slot that is 180 degree from the specified slot, and the only possible way for this clutch could be assembled.
One more thing, this is the clutch that came in the bike from the Yamaha factory and I am the original owner. I hope this helps some one else out.
mikeOn my 2004 Roadstar it happens to be 180 degrees from the specified slot, the one marked to accept the dimpled discs.
|Why original bolts?|
Written by RoadieMan, on 06-09-2012 15:54
Don't understand why you suggest we use the original bolts when barnett gives us new ones. explain.
|Clutch handle tension|
Written by Jslater, on 03-09-2012 13:18
Was thinking of installing the Barnett clutch also.(2008 RSS with 48,000 miles) Was woundering with basic springs on Barnett clutch, once installed is the clutch lever have more tension then stock yamaha set up?
|Written by Waterproof, on 10-16-2011 09:08 |
Is the nut tight left ?
|oil pump gear|
Written by The Gardener, on 02-12-2011 01:36
the oil pump gear on the 99-03 was factory recalled for defect.
his apparently wasnt done allready.
Written by crossm/c, on 04-22-2010 13:02
Thanks guys, this new pressure plate solve my slipping problem. (2002 r/s with 35,000 miles) With the addition of the Revmaster my ride got exciting once again!
Only registered users can write comments.
Please login or register.
Powered by AkoComment Tweaked Special Edition v.1.4.6
AkoComment © Copyright 2004 by Arthur Konze - www.mamboportal.com
All right reserved