Chains-On-A-Stick Tool

Note: I have not seen this tool in action, nor can I provide a specific source. It's sort of like an urban legend. I submit this, nontheless, by way of completeness, in case you're feeling the pioneer spirit.

In this method, a 15-20 foot, carpenter's chalk-line is snapped onto the garage floor. The bike should be positioned onto the chalk line as follows:

• Center-lifted and maneuvered over the line
• Center lift lowered so tires are down, but the bike is still upright
• Steering set straight
• Both tires precisely centered on the line

Then a kind of a homemade, rod-and-chain thing is run through the hole in the rear axle. This thing is made up of equal-length pieces of small-diameter chain connected to the ends of a long rod.

Dimensions are roughly as follows:

• Rod: 3/8" x 4'. The rod length may be any length, actually, as long as it is longer than the rear axle, but long enough to allow the chains to touch each other, and reach the floor without interfering with the rear fender. The longer the rod is, the more accuracy this method offers.
• Chain: 2 lengths of 3/8", or smaller, chain -- 4' in length or longer. The longer the rod is, the longer the chains must be. Any type of chain is acceptable, as long as it will not stretch when pulled taut, and it won't kink. The longer the chains are, the more accuracy this method offers.

Tip: Rods or pipe may be substituted in place of chains, as long as they are rigid, straight, and true.

This tool is constructed by fastening one end of each chain to the ends of the rod. Care must be given not to fix the chain to the rod in such a way as to prevent the rod from being slid through the hole in the rear axle. To do this, the chain can be glued, soldered, or welded in-line with the rod.

Alternatively, you could run a small wire-tie through a hole you drill near the end of each end of the rod, and then through the end link of the chain. Or, if the chain is smaller diameter than the rod, you could drill short, blind, pilot holes into the ends of the rod, dangle or push the chain-end into the hole, and solder it in place. Just be sure links which are outside the hole are not soldered, as this may dramatically affect reading accuracy. Whatever holes you put into the rod, just be sure you measure their placement to reflect identically on both sides.

Tip: In any case, you could construct your tool so as to allow you to attach the chains AFTER the rod is slid through the axle-hole.

Next, the rod's lateral (side-to-side) center is marked. Then, points 7" on either side of the center point are marked. Marking can be accomplished with a permanent marker, a center-punch, a file, or whatever.

To use the tool, you run one chain and the attached rod through the axle hole. The rod is centered, length-wise, in the axle hole, using the marker points as reference.

Then the chains are lead to a point behind the bike, on the chalk line. The rear wheel is aligned when the bitter ends of the chain touch down on the same spot along the chalk line.

Adjust the right-side adjuster IN (axle rearward) if the right-side chain touches the chalk line closer to the bike than the left-side chain. Adjust the right-side adjuster OUT (axle forward) if the left-side chain touches the chalk line closer to the bike than the right-side chain.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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