Introduction
There are many reasons to remove one or both of the wheels on your Road Star: mounting new tires, changing the drive belt, or tending to your wheel bearings -- to name a few. Even if you have a professional mechanic doing wheel/tire work for you, you can save substantial money and feel some 'did it myself' pride by handing over your wheels instead of your whole bike.
It's a fairly simple and quick procedure, and doesn't take many tools. This article walks you through the steps, one by one.
When all the little details are described, this can sound like a much bigger job than it is. If you can replace the sparkplug in a lawnmower, and change the oil in your bike, you can probably take your wheels off and put them back on without breaking a sweat.
The next page gives you a quick overview, in case you just need a reminder or two. The pages following that give more detailed instructions.
Quick Overview
If you've done similar tasks on other bikes, you've got the tools, and you just need a quick overview, then this page may be all you need. For more detailed instructions, also see the pages following.
Front Wheel
You'll need the following tools:
If you're working solo, raise the bike to lift most of the weight off the front wheel, but leave the wheel's own weight still on the tire. If you'll be using an assistant, use the lift to raise the front wheel completely off the floor.
Loosen the axle pinch bolt. It is the 6mm hex bolt, facing forward, low on the right fork. See close-up photo below.
Remove at least one brake caliper using a 12mm socket wrench. There are only two bolts, and you can let the caliper hang from its hose, or support it with a toolbox, or suspend it via a wire. See photo below.
Unscrew and remove the axle from the right side.
Tip (if working solo): If you have the right amount of weight on the tire, the axle should unscrew and pull out without any binding. To achieve this, adjust the lift up or down by tiny amounts, as needed. See photo below.
Tip (if using an assistant): Have your assistant lift the front tire with steadily more effort until the axle can be pulled out without any binding. See photo below.
Raise the bike further to roll the wheel out from under the fender. Tip: There is a metal, wheel, hub spacer on each side of the wheel. Keep track of them. See close-up photo below.
Assemble in reverse. Be sure to check that your tire rotation is properly oriented. Torque the axle bolt to 56 ft-lbs. Torque the pinch bolt to 14 ft-lbs.
Rear Wheel
You'll need the following tools:
If you're working solo, raise the bike to lift most of the weight off the rear wheel, but leave the wheel's own weight still on the tire. If you'll be using an assistant, use the lift to raise the rear wheel completely off the floor.
Loosen the rear brake caliper bracket mounting bolt on the right side of the lower swing-arm. It's a 14mm socket bolt. See photo below.
Unscrew and remove the axle by holding a wrench on each side of the axle. See photo below.
Tip (if working solo): If you have the right amount of weight on the tire, the axle should pull (or push) out without any binding. To achieve this, adjust the lift up or down by tiny amounts, as needed. See photo below.
Tip (if using an assistant): Have your assistant lift the rear tire with steadily more effort until the axle can be pulled (or pushed) out without any binding. See photo below.
As the axle is removed, keep track of the axle, axle nut, nut washer, and the left and right alignment blocks. See photo below.
Raise the bike high enough to work the drive belt off the rear pulley. Tip: The rear pulley can come loose, so use caution to avoid damage.
Raise the bike further, to roll the tire out from under the fender.
Note: There is a metal, wheel, hub spacer on each side of the wheel. Keep track of them.
Assemble in reverse. Adjust the rear wheel alignment and belt tension. Then torque the axle bolt to 65 to 85 ft-lbs. Torque the brake caliper bracket bolt to 35 ft-lbs.
The following pages cover the above process in detail. Use as needed.
Tools Needed
Center Lift --or other means to lift the wheel(s) off the ground
You must have some way to suspend the bike, and the simplest solution is to support the bike under the engine area of the frame.
A center lift is one of those tools that, once purchased, you may wonder how you ever did without it. For example, it can raise your bike high enough to ease pressure on your back and knees during many common maintenance tasks like washing, waxing, and oil changes. So if you don't yet own one, this may be a good excuse.
Hydraulic center lifts consume about the same floor space as a cardboard produce box (flattened), and, although they maneuver easily on wheels, they are fairly heavy. Scissor type center lifts are somewhat smaller and lighter. Also, if your bike's suspension has been lowered you may need someone to help you support your bike while you slide the lift in or out.
Hydraulic or scissor-type motorcycle center lifts are available from places like the following:
Expect to pay $60 to $280US.
Torque Wrench --optional, but recommended
You want a torque wrench capable of recording at least 85 ft-lbs.
A torque wrench prevents over tightening, which can be worse than under tightening. For instance, the front axle is held in place by the forks. The forks are made of an aluminum alloy, which is a soft metal and somewhat easily stripped if overtightened. Also, the rear axle must be tight, but if over tightened some riders have broken their axle bolt. A torque wrench will solve these issues, and open a world of other wrenching confidence.
27mm Wrench --for rear wheel
If you will be removing the rear wheel, and your exhaust pipes extend back and over the area near the rear axle, you may need a 27mm open-end, or large Crescent type adjustable wrench. Otherwise, you can use a 27mm socket or box wrench.
22mm Wrench
You'll need a 22mm socket, box, or open-end wrench regardless of which wheel you remove.
Note: You'll also need zero, one, or two socket wrench handles, depending on how many sockets you'll be using. See text above, and instructions below for details.
6mm Hex Wrench --for front wheel
If you will be removing your front wheel, you will need a 6mm hex (allen) wrench, preferably one that will work with your torque wrench. Though recommended, a torque wrench is not a requirement.
12mm wrench --for front
If you will be removing your front wheel, you will need a 12mm socket, box, or open-end wrench.
12 and 14mm wrenches --for rear
If you will be removing your rear wheel, you will need a 12mm socket, box, or open-end wrench. You'll also need a 14mm open-end wrench. These are for adjusting the wheel alignment.
Wooden Shims
In case, accidentally, somehow the brake pads get sqeezed together, disallowing you to spread them enough to insert the brake rotor. Wood shims are available from any hardware type store. If shims are not available, you can use any wood or plastic tool that can be slipped between the brake pads to push them apart.
Removing the Front Wheel
Important Tip: Do not squeeze the brake lever while your wheel is out. Otherwise you may have trouble getting the rotors back between the brake pads.
First, either lock the forks into a straight-ahead position, or move the handlebars to a hard-left steering position. Tip: The steering can be locked straight-ahead by tying thin, flexible, non-stretchy rope to each side of the handlebars (somewhere strong and secure). Then leading each string back to a convenient place on the bike -- perhaps around the frame, under the seat area. Doing this makes it a little easier to work the wheel out from the fender without binding.
Next, take most of the weight off the wheel using a lift. Leave a bit of weight on the tire -- approximately the weight of the tire and wheel. More on this later.
Drape some soft rags along the tops of the brake rotors, so when the wheel is free, they won't scratch anything. Note: The photo below was taken after the axle had already been removed.
Next use a 6mm hex (allen) wrench to loosen the pinch bolt. It is the forward facing hex bolt near the bottom of the right fork. See close-up photo below.
Remove at least one brake caliper using a 12mm wrench. There are only two bolts, and you can let the caliper hang from its hose, or support it with a toolbox, or suspend it with a wire. See photo below.
Now unscrew the axle bolt from the right side using a 22mm wrench. Tip: It threads into the left fork. See photo below.
Tip: To protect the bolt's chrome, you can place a piece of clean cloth between the bolt and wrench.
If you've got someone to help you hold and support the wheel's weight as you extract the axle, raise the bike enough that the wheel clears the ground. Then have your assistant pull up on the wheel with steadily increasing force until you can easily extract the axle. Be careful to keep the bike steady on its lift.
If you are working solo, put the right amount of weight on the tire, and extract the axle bolt. If you have the right amount of weight on the tire, the axle should unscrew and pull out without binding and little drag.
Tip: Once you’ve loosened the bolt a full turn or so, you should be able to finish unscrewing the axle using very little effort. If not, there may too much or too little weight on the tire. Adjust the lift up or down by tiny amounts, as needed, to be sure you can remove the axle easily.
Safety Note: You must be able to extract the axle with very little binding/drag (effort). Failure to do so may result in any of the following:
All these conditions and consequences may result in pinched fingers, or worse bodily harm. Exercise caution.
Once the axle is removed, just roll the wheel a little forward. As you do this, crank the lift higher and higher until the tire is free of its brake caliper (if still installed) and the front fender.
Tip: Most hydraulic center lifts move the bike sideways as they are raised or lowered. You must also move your wheel a bit sideways to avoid binding your wheel on other bike parts.
There are metal, wheel, hub spacers on each side of the wheel. Be careful not to lose them as the wheel comes out. See photo below.
Once the wheel is out, do not lay it on its side on a hard floor. This might damage a brake rotor or the hub.
Unless you will be reinstalling your wheel right away, lower the lift enough to place the rear tire back on the floor, if it is still on. Do anything and everything to reduce the risk of an accident. Ask yourself, "What if I slipped and fell against the bike? How easily could the bike fall?" If there are ways to improve safety, do them.
Tip: If your wheel will be off for more than an hour or two, be sure your lift's safety catch is enabled, if equipped. Some lift hydraulics will relax over time, resulting in the lift gradually settling down without your knowledge. I learned this the hard way when one morning I opened my garage door to discover my bike (a prior bike) laying on its right side, and the lift down!
If your lift is hydraulic, it should have several of these mechanical safety catch points. Be sure you enable the catch, and lower your lift into one of them.
Installing the Front Wheel
First, clean all parts, as needed. Examine your two wheel hub spacers, the wheel bearing seals, and the axle bolt. All should appear in good condition and undamaged. Refer to the Road Star Service Manual for details.
Lubricate the lips of both wheel bearing seals, as well as the axle.
Now check your front tire. There is a rotation arrow somewhere on the sidewall. This represents the desired rotation direction of the tire. Orient your wheel so that this arrow will point forward when it is at the top of the tire.
Be sure the bike is lifted high enough for the tire to clear the leading edge of the front fender. Then roll the wheel back in. As you do this, be careful of the brake rotors. They can damage paint or chrome on themselves, the forks, or the brake calipers as you position the wheel. Use protective rags, as needed.
Next, slowly begin to lower the bike down over the wheel -- bit by bit. As you do this, test and retest the wheel, to be certain it is not binding. Especially check the wheel hub spacers. They can pop off or bind. See photo below.
As the bike is progressively lowered over the wheel, the installed brake caliper will approach its rotor -- assuming you left one caliper intact. Just wiggle and align the rotor in between the brake pads. See photo below.
Tip: If the pads will not easily spread enough to straddle the rotor, you can roll the wheel forward a little, and use one or two wooden shims between the brake pads. Wedge the pads apart just enough for the rotor to slide between them. See photo below.
Warning: Do not use a screwdriver or other ill suited tool to pry brake pads apart, as you may damage their braking surfaces (or worse).
Next, be sure you have the wheel hub spacers fully inserted into each side of the wheel. Then, as you continue to check for any binding, continue slowly lowering the forks over the wheel until the fork axle-hole aligns with the wheel axle-hole.
Now, slide the axle bolt back into the right fork axle-hole and through the wheel. Then screw the axle bolt back into the left-side fork. Torque the bolt to 56 ft-lbs using a 22mm wrench.
Tighten the pinch bolt on the lower, right fork. To do this, torque 14 ft-lbs using 6mm hex (allen) wrench.
Finally, reinstall the brake caliper(s) that you removed. To do this, first guide the brake pads to straddle the rotor. Then slide the caliper into position with the forks. See photo below. Torque the two bolts of each caliper to 29 ft-lbs using a 12mm wrench.
Double check your work. Wheels are important in keeping pavement off your skin.
Now, do two more things before riding:
Removing the Rear Wheel
Important Tip: Do not Press the brake pedal while your wheel is out. Otherwise you may have trouble getting the rotors back between the brake pads.
The Road Star's balance point--front to rear--is roughly under the engine's 'V'. Position your lift close enough to this point so as to maintain the bike's stability, and your safety, even when the rear wheel is removed.
Raise the lift to take most of the weight off the wheel. Leave a bit of weight on the tire -- approximately the weight of the tire and wheel. More on this later.
Have some rags handy to protect surfaces.
You must loosen the single, 14mm bolt that secures the rear brake caliper bracket to the lower swing arm, on the right side of the bike. See photo below. Actually, if you've got an oversize tire, you'll have to remove the bolt--or maybe the bracket and/or caliper.
Note: If you have permanently mounted saddlebags, or you feel it would be better to remove the rear fender to expose the rear wheel, do the following (in order):
Then you just hold wrenches on both sides of the rear axle and unscrew the nut from the right side. The left-side (bolt) takes a 22mm wrench. The right-side (nut) takes a 27mm wrench. See photo below.
Tip: To protect the bolt's chrome, you can place a piece of clean cloth between the bolt and wrench.
Tip: Depending on what exhaust pipes you have, you may have to use a box wrench or open-end wrench on the right side. When I had stock pipes, and even when I had Bub Big Willy pipes, I only had room to use an open-end type wrench. I didn’t have a 27mm open-end wrench, so I used a good quality, adjustable, Crescent wrench.
If you've got someone to help you hold and support the wheel's weight as you extract the axle, raise the bike enough that the wheel clears the ground. Then have your assistant pull up on the wheel with steadily increasing force until you can easily extract the axle. Be careful to keep the bike steady on its lift.
If you are working solo, put the right amount of weight on the tire, and extract the axle bolt. If you have the right amount of weight on the tire, the axle should pull (or push) out without binding and little drag. Tip: You should be able to extract the axle using very little effort. If not, there may too much or too little weight on the tire. Adjust the lift up or down by tiny amounts, as needed, to be sure you can pull (or push) the axle out easily.
Safety Note: You must be able to extract the axle with very little binding/drag (effort). Failure to do so may result in any of the following:
All these conditions and consequences may result in pinched fingers, or worse bodily harm. Exercise caution.
As you remove the rear axle, keep track of several parts:
From the bike’s left side, work the drive belt off the rear pulley. To do this, raise the lift higher and higher until the wheel assembly is low enough that the belt can be easily peeled off the pulley using your fingers. See photo below.
Then keep raising the lift to roll the tire out toward the rear of the bike.
Tip: Most hydraulic center lifts move the bike sideways as they are raised or lowered. You must also move your wheel a bit sideways to avoid binding your wheel on other bike parts.
Tip: Some lifts do not raise the bike high enough to roll the wheel free. In this case you can simply lean it over a bit as you roll it back.
Once the wheel is out, do not lay it on its side on a hard floor. This might damage a brake rotor, the pulley, or the hub. If you pull the pulley off the wheel, you can check the condition of the cush rubber dampeners, and clean the area. See photo below.
Unless you will be reinstalling your wheel right away, lower the lift enough to place the front tire back on the floor, if it is still on. Do anything and everything to reduce the risk of an accident. Ask yourself, "What if I slipped and fell against the bike? How easily could the bike fall?" If there are ways to improve safety, do them.
Tip: If your wheel will be off for more than an hour or two, be sure your lift's safety catch is enabled, if equipped. Some lift hydraulics will relax over time, resulting in the lift gradually settling down without your knowledge. I learned this the hard way when one morning I opened my garage door to discover my bike (a prior bike) laying on its right side, and the lift down!
If your lift is hydraulic, it should have several of these mechanical safety catch points. Be sure you enable the catch, and lower your lift into one of them.
Installing the Rear Wheel
First, clean all parts, as needed. Examine your two wheel hub spacers, the wheel bearing seals, rear pulley, the six pie shaped rubber dampeners, drive belt, and the axle bolt and nut. All should appear in good condition and undamaged. Refer to the Road Star Service Manual for details.
Lubricate the lips of both wheel bearing seals, as well as the axle.
Install the rubber dampeners, pulley, and metal hub spacers onto the wheel. Tip: The hub spacer you put on the left side of the wheel goes on after the pulley has been installed.
Be sure the bike is lifted high enough for the tire to clear the trailing edge of the rear fender, and roll or angle/slide the wheel in. As you do this, be careful of the brake rotor and the pulley. They can damage paint or chrome on themselves, the swing arm, or the brake caliper as you position the wheel. Tip: Use soft rags along the top of the pulley or swing arm, to protect parts.
Slowly lower the bike down over the wheel just enough to allow you to work the drive belt back onto the pulley.
Next, slowly continue to lower the bike down over the wheel -- bit by bit. As you do this, test and retest the wheel, to be certain it is not binding. Especially check the wheel hub spacers and the pulley.
As the bike is progressively lowered over the wheel the brake caliper will approach the rotor, unless it has been removed. Just wiggle and align the rotor in between the brake pads. See photo below.
Tip: If the pads will not easily spread enough to straddle the rotor, you can roll the wheel back a little, and use one or two wooden shims between the brake pads. Wedge the pads apart just enough for the rotor to slide between them. See photo below.
Warning: Do not use a screwdriver or other ill suited tool to pry brake pads apart, as you may damage their braking surfaces (or worse).
Next, as you continue to check for any binding, continue carefully lowering the frame over the wheel until the swing arm axle-holes line up with the wheel axle-hole.
Now, slide the left wheel-alignment block onto the axle bolt, then slide the bolt back in through the left side of the swing-arm hole and through the wheel. As you do this, also work the left wheel-alignment block back into position. See photo below.
Tip: The wheel-alignment blocks should be oriented with the engraved 'tick marks' out and up.
Tip: If you can't easily get the left-side wheel-alignment block into position, loosen and back out the wheel-alignment adjuster-bolt on one -- or both -- sides. You only need to loosen a few turns. If you keep track of how many turns, you can return the alignment bolt(s) back to their original position after the alignment-blocks are installed (assuming you trust that your belt was properly aligned before, and you're not replacing the drive belt or anything).
Push the axle ‘home’ into the right-side swing-arm. Then slide the right-side wheel-alignment block and the thick washer over the axle. Finally hand tighten the axle nut back into the axle bolt.
You must align the rear wheel so your drive belt tracks properly, and is properly tensioned. For instructions on ways to do this, check out the following articles: The $6 Wheel Alignment Jig, and Rear Wheel Alignment.
Note: More detailed Belt Alignment articles are in the works. If you need more help with this right away, just click the "Forum" tab at the top of this web page. Then post your questions to the community of other Road Star owners. They'll make sure you get the job done right.
As part of your wheel alignment process, closely inspect that the right-side alignment-bolt is fully in contact with the rear of your swing arm. If not, use a rubber mallet (or other non-marring tool) to nudge the alignment-bolt into contact with the rear of the swing arm. To do this, you can rap the side of the axle-nut, the head of the adjuster bolt, or the side of the tire.
Torque the axle to 65 to 85 ft-lbs, or 110ft-lbs. See the note below.
Note: The Road Star Service Manual recommends 110 ft-lbs, but some riders have reported that this much torque has twisted or broken their axle. As a precaution, many riders now use as little as 65 ft-lbs. I feel more comfortable with 85 ft-lbs. Use the torque you feel comfortable with; just be sure it's enough to hold the axle in place under the stress of the engine's power, but not so tight you might break the axle -- which is hollow.
Last, but not least, don't forget the brake caliper bracket. Reinstall it and/or the caliper, if removed. Torque the bracket's bolt to 35 ft-lbs. And, if removed, torque the caliper to 29 ft-lbs.
Double check your work. Wheels are important in keeping pavement off your skin.
Now, do two more things before riding:
Next, check the belt adjustment via a short test ride. If there is a whining sound, the belt is probably too tight. If you hear a chirp sound when you downshift hard (that isn't the tire), the belt is probably too loose. If adjustment is indicated, do the following:
Ride on.
Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.
Discuss this article on the forums. (0 posts)
DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only. Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure. You assume all risks associated with the use of this information. NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION. Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.
Quote this article on your site | Views: 38047 Comments (4) |
| Written by Fiddlekop1, on 11-12-2011 08:24 I am about to remove my front wheel for a tire change and this article will be a great help. thanks to the author |
| Piece of Cake Written by dpellerin, on 03-01-2011 10:07 Great article, and great tip by erizo! I was able to get a new tire put on my bike and saved about $45 by removing the wheel myself over having the shop do it. And it was fun! Everything went back together easily and works perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to put this together! |
| Written by Crusierbob, on 07-14-2008 09:13 Fantastic article. I have done this procedure, and learned the hard way every thing pointed out in this article. You can save a lot of time and some money by taking the wheel to a shop for tire changes. If you have to wait for them to remove the wheel that can take a lot longer. Most shops will immediately change a tire when the wheel is brought in. And you can see the care that is taken when it is your own scooter versus how a shop works. Using a lot of towels to cover chromed or painted parts saves a lot of minor damage.  |
| rear wheel removal Written by erizo, on 07-14-2008 03:41 when removing the rear wheel there is no necsessity to raise the rear of the bike high to clear the fender. under the seat just above the battery under 2 rubber caps are 2 17mm bolts. remove these and the whole rear subframe and fender can be flipped up on it´s hinge. by doing this, it´s a bit safer as the rear wheel only needs to be 2" off the deck. |
 |
Only registered users can write comments.
Please login or register.
Powered by AkoComment Tweaked Special Edition v.1.4.6
AkoComment © Copyright 2004 by Arthur Konze - www.mamboportal.com
All right reserved