No Harley dealer do not carry jet kits that fit R*'s They do carry Mikuni jets but you will be lucky to find the right ones for a R* so don't waste your time with HD guys. You can purchase a Barons Jet kit from Barons or many of the aftermarket dealers on line you can also buy a the Dyna Jet kit. But as you have stock pipes a jet kit isn't needed yet. You can pull the carb and pull the plug over the PMS and try tweaking that first. The free flowing air filter is going to help you much with the choked up stock pipes. You might consider drilling out the stock pipes to stage 3.

The PMS adjustment will help.

2004 M.E. with V&H propipe, K&N RA-066V and so far using 172.5 Main, 37.5 pilot with 2.5 turns out, needle on 4th groove with awesome results. May tweek the PMS screw to get the sweet spot but need to do a long run to record mileage. Carbon buildup as per Baron's instructions with their jet kit, so not changing anything on the main size. Can't be any happier with performance and sound!!!

Can the PMS screw be accessed without removing the carb?

If the cap is already drilled off, yes.

To confirm the location, it is right next to the float bowl? Only reference I have is this: http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/56/96/

I also have the service manual but I can't locate it there.
jd750ace wrote:
If the cap is already drilled off, yes.

Jclevesque wrote:
2004 M.E. with V&H propipe, K&N RA-066V and so far using 172.5 Main, 37.5 pilot with 2.5 turns out, needle on 4th groove with awesome results. May tweek the PMS screw to get the sweet spot but need to do a long run to record mileage. Carbon buildup as per Baron's instructions with their jet kit, so not changing anything on the main size. Can't be any happier with performance and sound!!!

Using two shims?

So, I'm about to drill the plug covering PMS. How deep is the screw under the plug? I don't want to damage the screw. And what type of screw head is it?

bruisercruiser wrote:
So, I'm about to drill the plug covering PMS. How deep is the screw under the plug? I don't want to damage the screw. And what type of screw head is it?

Just drill slow, and stop when you get through the cap. Don't push like your trying to drill through stainless with a dull bit. Takes a small regular screwdriver.

Ran through this helpful posting stem to stern. In some other threads I found mention of the float height and how it changed early to late. I have a 2002 carb on the bench so wondering if resetting the float to the late spec or some in between height would be advantageous?

My vacuum cap was significantly warped, found a few mentions of that, it didn't take long to straighten the sealing surface by stroking it on a piece of 160 grit on a flat surface.

A link to manifold mods in the original post might be good?

I swear the main is plainly marked as a 165, no markings on the other brass. I still need to look at the needle jet see if it's a stocker or has adjustments. Might these be some weird after market stuff? The PMS cap had been removed when I started. screw was 3 1/4 turns out. The float bowl screws are stock phillips, not burred up.
There was carbon build up on bore, slide and even inside the pilot jet..