Once in a while when I stop and shut down , park on mostly flat surface on side stand. Go take care of business. Set down and stand bike upright , go through normal starting procedure,my carb. will pour gas out the right side all over my leg till it fires up and then the flood stops ! Any ideas what's up ?

O-ring on the needle housing failing. 5uh-14107-20-00/-needle-valve-set
http://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004461ef8700209bc78f954/carburetor #15

To me it sounds like the classic carb puke. There are a couple ways to take care of it. You can go pumpless and that is a very popular mod the guys around here do, you can lower the level of the float just a tad or change the steel fuel line that goes between the jugs from the pump to the carb to a rubber line then insulate the hell of of it. I did the float level and rubber line to a couple R*s and the owners never had a puke or fume smell again.

Attach a rubber hose to the top left float bowl vent and run it down under the bike. That will stop any overflow from getting on you and the bike.

I found this forum because of carb puke...

The quickest, easiest workaround, just shut off the petcock 5 - 10 seconds before turning off the bike.

Burns out some of the gas after the petcock and relieves some pressure. The trickiest part is to remember to turn it back on.

Again, a workaround, not a permanent solution, but it worked fine for me.

Although after I put a K&N air cleaner on it opened up the area between the cylinders for better airflow, and I have never had the heat push the gas out ever since.

DblPost

MidwestMike wrote:
I found this forum because of carb puke...

The quickest, easiest workaround, just shut off the petcock 5 - 10 seconds before turning off the bike.

Burns out some of the gas after the petcock and relieves some pressure. The trickiest part is to remember to turn it back on.

Again, a workaround, not a permanent solution, but it worked fine for me.

Although after I put a K&N air cleaner on it opened up the area between the cylinders for better airflow, and I have never had the heat push the gas out ever since.

This is the quickest and easiest^^^^

When the bike stops, the heat builds around the carb and under tank area because the air circulation stops. If you're running the pump, the fuel can't back up towards the pump as it expands. It over rides the tension from the float that keeps the needle and seat closed, and floods the bowl.
More air circulation around the carb by going to a smaller aftermarket air filter system helps, as does getting rid of the pump(my preference because so many issues simply disappear).

If it is the needle and seat seal failing, either in the needle to seat contact area, or the oring that seals the seat in place, then it will more then likely do it when the bike is sitting in the garage, or going down the road. Your mileage will get worse and worse, until the bike is flooded everytime you even try and start it. It's always worth repeating, if you have a bike that is ten years old or older, and ot is probably still the stock needle and seat, change it just to be on the safe side. They come as a set, with a new oring.

JEastonjr wrote:
O-ring on the needle housing failing. 5uh-14107-20-00/-needle-valve-set
http://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004461ef8700209bc78f954/carburetor #15Can this replacement be done with carb. mounted ?

Turn the petcock off 30 seconds before killing the engine to lower the fuel level in the carb bowl.

Horsehammerr wrote:
JEastonjr wrote:
O-ring on the needle housing failing. 5uh-14107-20-00/-needle-valve-set
http://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004461ef8700209bc78f954/carburetor #15Can this replacement be done with carb. mounted ?

NO.