First, snake the starter-end of the new cable down between the transfer case and engine case, where the stock cable was just removed.

Route the relay-terminal end of the cable via the same routing as the stock one--to the relay terminal-post, in the left side-cover area. Refer to the picture(s) or notes you took. Also, see the TOP VIEW photo below.

Inspect the relay terminal-post to be sure it is free of corrosion and dirt; clean as needed. Then slip the appropriate boot on the cable, and bolt it to the terminal-post. Smear on some dielectric grease, and pull the boot down over the bolt. Do not use thread-lock, as you want to ensure a good electrical connection.

Route the starter-end of the cable along the same route as the stock cable. It is a very tight fit under the engine, but it will snug in nicely, with a little effort. The tightest area will be near the side-stand; just take your time.

As you work the cable toward the starter area, be mindful of the cable length. You want to reach the starter with enough cable length, but not any extra. My cable fit very tight against the frame and engine, so I was not able to pull up extra length nor push excess back. I had to really watch that my cable length came out right.

Once the cable is routed beneath the engine, insert the cable into the two, black plastic, cable harness clamps located on the left-frame, near the starter area. Simply snap these clamps closed. The new, fatter cable should just fit.

Then install some wire-ties, if you feel it necessary. Since my cables fit very snugly, I did not wire-tie them.

Now install the new wire for the negative side of the battery. To do this, simply slip one end of the short cable under the bolt for the oil fill tube, and torque the bolt back down (7.2 ft-lbs. Not too tight).