Clinic
You CAN do it...
Installing 4-Gauge Starter Cables and a Warrior Starter |
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Written by Randy Fox (Randysgym) | |
Saturday, 15 September 2007 | |
Page 4 of 5
Changing StartersIf you will not be installing a Warrior starter, skip to the next section.
Remove the two, allen-head bolts from the starter mount, where the starter mounts to the engine, near the front horn. Then use both hands to pull the starter free from the engine housing by simply wiggling, turning, and pulling the starter toward the left of the bike. It will feel tight at first, as there is an O-ring seal in the end of the starter. Once the O-ring begins to slide out of its seat, the starter will easily slip out. Be careful, though; it can release suddenly. Set your old starter aside. Now lubricate the O-ring on the new starter with a bit of engine oil. Then using both hands again, slide the new starter into the engine housing. Wiggle the starter as you go, to help the starter gear engage with the engine gears. As the O-ring nears its ‘home’, it will become tight again. You can stop pushing at this point. Then insert the two mounting bolts into the starter mount, and torque them to 7.2 ft-lbs (easy does it). The starter O-ring seal will be pushed ‘home’ as you tighten the mounting bolts.
Note: The Warrior starter will show a slight gap between the engine housing and the starter case. This is normal, and does not affect operation of the bike or starter. In the picture above, you can see that I have a custom, irridescent, powdercoat color on my engine. I apologize for any viewing confusion this may cause (he he).
Note: The Warrior starter has a shorter arbor shaft than the stock Road Star starter. Since this shaft does not engage anything within the engine housing, the shorter arbor shaft is fine. See photo above. |
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