This article is one of a series that describes how to disassemble, work on, and reassemble the Road Star engine. This particular document shows you how to remove the engine from the frame, and how to split the crankcases. It also describes how to remove the crank, transmission, and oil pump assemblies. See the Complete Engine Tear Down, Orientation article in this website for details. Be sure you refer to the service manual through all phases of this project.

With all the subassemblies removed, the remains of the engine can be removed quickly or slowly, depending on how many people you have to help:

• Quickly: Three people. The engine is supported by one person on each side, while the third person (probably you) removes the final two motor-mount bolts.
• Semi-quickly: Two people. The engine is supported by one person on each side, while the person on the left side (probably you) removes the final two motor-mount bolts.
• Slow and Steady: Solo. The engine is supported by jack stands or other adjustable supports. Meanwhile the final two motor-mount bolts are removed, and the bike is rolled left-ward via the center-lift.

Regardless of your situation, begin by removing the nuts for remaining motor mounts. There are two nuts at the very bottom of the engine (right-side), plus one at the front (with a bracket), plus one at the rear (with a bracket).

The front and rear motor mount brackets will also have to be removed. To do this, remove the bolts that hold the brackets to the frame; then remove the long bolts that hold the brackets to the engine.

Now put some duck tape or rags along the right frame rail (the low frame member) to protect the frame and engine paint as you maneuver the engine out. Tip: Actually, I duck taped some rags to the frame.

Slide the lifting rods through the front and rear motor-mount holes in the engine so that most of the rod sticks out of the left-side. (See Parts and Tools for details on the 3' - 4' rods). Only allow enough to protrude to the right to allow them to be used as handles. See photo above.

Now, depending on how many helpers you have, do the following:

• Two helpers-- Have them lift up on the rods to take the weight of the engine--about 125 pounds total. Next, draw out both remaining long motor-mount bolts from the frame’s left-side. Then have your helpers lift up just enough so the engine bottom clears the frame, but not so high that the rear of the engine runs into the frame. Finally, just walk the engine out the right side. Be prepared to assist your helpers, first from the left side, then the right, as lifting rods move across and through the frame.
• One helper-- Place a couple of jack-stands close to the left-side of the frame, and raise them up against the lifting rods with a bit of force. Have your helper stand on the right-side and lift up on the rods to take weight off the engine--which is about 125 lbs, total. Next, draw out both remaining motor-mount bolts from the frame’s left-side. Now pick up your side of the lifting rods, and the two of you lift up just enough so the engine bottom clears the frame, but not so high that the rear of the engine runs into the frame. Finally, walk the engine out the right side. Be prepared to rest the engine on something close by, of roughly equal height--since you will be limited by the rods' length, as to how far you can maneuver.
• No helper (solo)-- Raise the hydraulic center lift at least high enough to clear the tires from the floor, plus 4-5 inches. Now, use four jack-stands (or other supports)--two on each side, supporting the lifting rods. Note: I had to improvise, as the photo above shows. Place the right-side stands close to the frame. Place the left-side stands as far from the frame as possible. Now raise the stands to take the weight of the engine onto the lifting rods--which is about 125 lbs. Note: You can lift and set each jack-stand height with two hands fairly easily. I was surprised that not much force was needed. Next, draw out both, remaining motor-mount bolts from the frame’s left-side. Then, use the bike's center-lift to lower the frame just enough so the engine bottom clears the frame, but not so low that the rear of the engine runs into the frame. Now, just push the bike to the left, and position three or four 1"x4" x4' boards from the frame to something roughly the same height as the frame. (See photo below). Cover the boards with rags. Then raise the bike back up, so as to lift the boards up against the engine. Remove the jack-stands and rods, and lift or scoot the engine down the board ramp. Be careful of your back, your toes, and the engine.

Jack-Stand Tip: I found that the rear motor mount hole (the one with the rod in it) was so high that my fully extended jack-stand wouldn’t quite lift the engine high enough to clear the frame. I would recommend you test or measure for this ahead of time. You may need to raise the stand with some boards beneath it, as I did.

Easy does it. Since I was working solo, it took me about two hours of jockeying and experimenting, to get the crankcases out.

See the photo below.

Now that the engine is out of the frame, remove and store the three M8 bolts and three M6 bolts from the right-hand side. Then rest the engine on its right-side.

Tip: I used a furniture dolly on which to rest the engine’s right-side. It gave the shafts enough room so the case would lie flat, and let me easily move the whole thing around the garage, as needed. See overhead photo below.

Next, remove and store the 15, M6 bolts from the left side. Tip: Be sure you get the long one that is recessed, near the rear of the engine, in the shift-shaft area, away from the case perimeter.

Rotate the transmission's shift-selector drum, as needed, so it lines up with the puzzle-piece shaped hole in the left case. See the service manual for details.

Now begin carefully working the case halves apart. There is one place inside that will resist a bit. It is the crossover-tube, in the lower front area of the case. See photo below. The resistance comes from a small O-ring, and is not strong, so just keep working the cases apart. You can use wooden or plastic wedges as you go, but be very careful not to mar the mating (gasket) surfaces.

Once the cases are separated, you'll see that the parts inside are organized into four basic areas. See photo above. From front to rear, and top to bottom, they are:

• The generator shaft and gear
• The crank assembly
• The transmission
• The oil pump

Remove, label, and store the crossover tube. As you do so, check the condition of its two O-rings--replace as needed.

Remove the crank assembly. It must be lifted out squarely, so as to clear its bearing without binding. The assembly weighs over 50 lbs, so be careful of your back, your toes, the crank assembly, and other parts. This takes some strength as well as care and finesse.

If the cases will be separated long enough for any dust to settle (a few days or more, under normal conditions), wrap, label, and store the crank assembly.

If you have disassembled the generator area, you can now pull out the generator shaft and gear.

Wrap, label, and store the generator shaft, as you did the crank assembly. See photo below.

Next, remove the oil pump. To do this, you must take off the oil pump strainer (two brass colored screws on top of the oil pump). This will reveal a bolt hidden underneath. See photo below.

Be very careful of the screen on the strainer. It is a little delicate. See photo above. Then wrap, label, and store the entire pump assembly--with its bolts re-inserted in their places in the pump.

Now for the transmission. Unless you plan on doing some work on it, I'd suggest you pull the entire thing out, as a single unit. Here's how I did this.

First I used a few big wire-ties to lasso the pieces together. See photo below.

Next, I tilted the case up, on edge. Then I wiggled the transmission shafts--all five of them--out from the case. The shift-fork shafts can slide out of the forks at any time, so keep everything together by holding the transmission roughly horizontal.

Once the transmission is out of the case, be sure to cinch the wire-ties a little more. Then wrap, label, and store the assembly. To see my wrapping job, see the photo shown earlier in this section.

To access related articles, refer back to the Complete Engine Tear Down, Orientation article in this series to see which additional articles best address your situation.

Questions should be asked in our forum (Use discuss link below). The forum is very active and you stand a good chance of getting your questions answered there. If you would like to leave feedback for the author, or have additional information you think will benefit others, please use the comment section at the bottom of this page.

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DISCLAIMER: This information and procedure is provided as a courtesy and is for informational purposes only.  Neither the publishers nor the authors accept any responsibility for the accuracy, applicability, or suitability of this procedure.  You assume all risks associated with the use of this information.  NEITHER THE PUBLISHERs NOR THE AUTHORs SHALL IN ANY EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, OF ANY NATURE ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION OR LACK OF INFORMATION.  Any type of modification or service work on your motorcycle should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, this procedure may endanger the safety of you and others on your motorcycle and possibly invalidate your manufacturer’s warranty.

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