Taking the Engine Out of the Frame

With all the subassemblies removed, the remains of the engine can be removed quickly or slowly, depending on how many people you have to help:

• Quickly: Three people. The engine is supported by one person on each side, while the third person (probably you) removes the final two motor-mount bolts.
• Semi-quickly: Two people. The engine is supported by one person on each side, while the person on the left side (probably you) removes the final two motor-mount bolts.
• Slow and Steady: Solo. The engine is supported by jack stands or other adjustable supports. Meanwhile the final two motor-mount bolts are removed, and the bike is rolled left-ward via the center-lift.

Regardless of your situation, begin by removing the nuts for remaining motor mounts. There are two nuts at the very bottom of the engine (right-side), plus one at the front (with a bracket), plus one at the rear (with a bracket).

The front and rear motor mount brackets will also have to be removed. To do this, remove the bolts that hold the brackets to the frame; then remove the long bolts that hold the brackets to the engine.

Now put some duck tape or rags along the right frame rail (the low frame member) to protect the frame and engine paint as you maneuver the engine out. Tip: Actually, I duck taped some rags to the frame.

Slide the lifting rods through the front and rear motor-mount holes in the engine so that most of the rod sticks out of the left-side. (See Parts and Tools for details on the 3' - 4' rods). Only allow enough to protrude to the right to allow them to be used as handles. See photo above.

Now, depending on how many helpers you have, do the following:

• Two helpers-- Have them lift up on the rods to take the weight of the engine--about 125 pounds total. Next, draw out both remaining long motor-mount bolts from the frame’s left-side. Then have your helpers lift up just enough so the engine bottom clears the frame, but not so high that the rear of the engine runs into the frame. Finally, just walk the engine out the right side. Be prepared to assist your helpers, first from the left side, then the right, as lifting rods move across and through the frame.
• One helper-- Place a couple of jack-stands close to the left-side of the frame, and raise them up against the lifting rods with a bit of force. Have your helper stand on the right-side and lift up on the rods to take weight off the engine--which is about 125 lbs, total. Next, draw out both remaining motor-mount bolts from the frame’s left-side. Now pick up your side of the lifting rods, and the two of you lift up just enough so the engine bottom clears the frame, but not so high that the rear of the engine runs into the frame. Finally, walk the engine out the right side. Be prepared to rest the engine on something close by, of roughly equal height--since you will be limited by the rods' length, as to how far you can maneuver.
• No helper (solo)-- Raise the hydraulic center lift at least high enough to clear the tires from the floor, plus 4-5 inches. Now, use four jack-stands (or other supports)--two on each side, supporting the lifting rods. Note: I had to improvise, as the photo above shows. Place the right-side stands close to the frame. Place the left-side stands as far from the frame as possible. Now raise the stands to take the weight of the engine onto the lifting rods--which is about 125 lbs. Note: You can lift and set each jack-stand height with two hands fairly easily. I was surprised that not much force was needed. Next, draw out both, remaining motor-mount bolts from the frame’s left-side. Then, use the bike's center-lift to lower the frame just enough so the engine bottom clears the frame, but not so low that the rear of the engine runs into the frame. Now, just push the bike to the left, and position three or four 1"x4" x4' boards from the frame to something roughly the same height as the frame. (See photo below). Cover the boards with rags. Then raise the bike back up, so as to lift the boards up against the engine. Remove the jack-stands and rods, and lift or scoot the engine down the board ramp. Be careful of your back, your toes, and the engine.

Jack-Stand Tip: I found that the rear motor mount hole (the one with the rod in it) was so high that my fully extended jack-stand wouldn’t quite lift the engine high enough to clear the frame. I would recommend you test or measure for this ahead of time. You may need to raise the stand with some boards beneath it, as I did.

Easy does it. Since I was working solo, it took me about two hours of jockeying and experimenting, to get the crankcases out.

See the photo below.