Installing the Transfer Case in the Bike

Install the huge O-ring onto the outside of the drive axle housing. See photo above.

Install the ultra-thin O-ring onto the drive axle.

Install the spacer-sleeve onto the drive axle, beveled end first. See photo above.

Take picts.

Remove the mounting bolt for the forward end of the rear shock/spring and drop the assembly down. See photo above.

Now slip alignment dowels into the right-side engine case, near the drive axle area.

Note: There is no gasket between the engine and transfer case. They are only sealed via the huge O-ring.

Now, slide the transfer case into the bike (from the right side) and onto the alignment dowels.

Hand tighten the four, M8 bolts snuggly to the engine's right-side, to hold the transfer case in position.

Take picts.

Next, install the middle driven shaft, the middle drive gear, and the drive chain. These parts are to be installed together, as a unit.

Now, hand tighten the front drive pulley nut onto the middle driven shaft from the bike's left-side. This will just keep the middle driven shaft in place while you finish installing the transfer case.

Next, Put the transmission in gear--using the shift drum by hand if needs-be--and do any combination of the following:

• Use the copper-washer-between-gears trick to lock the primary drive and driven gears on the bike's left-side. Note: I thought about using this trick, but the service manual does not mention this. I assumed it was because of the amount of torque causing possible damage to gears or bearings.
• Use a wrench on the primary gear bolt, to hold the gears in place.
• Use a wrench on the clutch basket center nut, to hold the gears in place.
• Wait until the left-side of the transfer case is reinstalled. Then place the bike on the ground, and stabilize it, to hold the gears in place.

Now, install the middle drive gear tab-washer onto the drive axle. Then install the middle drive gear nut, and torque it to 61 ft-lbs. Bend the washer tab up against the side of the nut. See photo below.

Tip: When my transmission recall was done, the dealership mechanic didn’t pay attention to the tab-lock washer aligning with the nut face. So I had to put the washer and nut on, torque the nut, estimate how far off the nut face was from aligning with the tab, remove the nut again, remove and reposition the tab-washer, and re-torque the nut. This is not required. I just like things to line up properly.

If you used a copper washer between the primary drive/driven gears, remember to remove it from the engine's left side!

Swing the rear shock assembly back up and re-bolt it. Torque the mounting bolt to 43 ft-lbs.

Next, slip two alignment dowels--the only two, large, solid aluminum ones--into the left-side engine case for the front pulley shroud. These dowels go just aft (rearward) of the clutch cover area. See photo below.

Note: There is no gasket for the shroud.

Install the front pulley shroud with M8 bolts, using 22 Ft-lbs of torque. Bolt it with four bolts to the transfer case and four (Correction, 3/27/2011: I believe that may be three flange-head) bolts to the engine.