Step 3: Modifying the Tank

The carrier system is secured to the bike via two, nylon-webbing, straps -- one strap on each side. See photo below.

These straps are secured to the seam lips underneath each side of tank via powdercoated, metal hooks sewn to the strap ends. See the Materials Needed section earlier in this article for details on these "gutter hooks" and other strap hardware.

The strap placement is very important:

• The forward angle of the straps keeps the carrier from sliding rearward during acceleration.
• The downward angle prevents the carrier from bouncing up if a pot hole or unexpected speed bump is struck.

Note: No other straps seem to be necessary since the dash contour, combined with the clingy nature of the vinyl covering on the mount, prevents any possibility of forward movement during deceleration. I conducted a few highly successful parking lot tests consisting of very hard accelerations and decelerations with 20 pounds of exercise weight plates in the carrier, just to be sure.

The gas tank must have 2 little tabs glued underneath, to keep the carrier strap-hooks in position. Otherwise they will tend to slip back, and soon come loose.

It's not difficult to make and attach these tabs. The steps are quick and straightforward:

• The tank must be removed.
• The tabs must be made.
• The spots on the tank must be sanded and prep'ed.
• The tabs must be mounted (glued).
• The exposed steel areas must be painted.

To fabricate the tabs, you'll need two scraps of 1/8" to 1/4" thick steel or aluminum plate. I used aluminum, since it's easier to work. See rough pattern diagram below.

Note: I ground a contour into the angle areas of the tabs, as shown in the diagram above. This helped make the underside of my strap-hooks fit the tabs well. Also, I left winglets at the ends, to keep the hooks from working themselves off the tabs or rubbing against the engine's valve cover.

The left-side tab must be placed at a position along the underside of the tank's seam so that the carrier strap can just clear the fuel petcock. Then make sure you position the right-side tab at an equivelant position along the tank's right seam. See photos below.

I used JB Weld engine epoxy to glue the tabs to the under side of the tank. It's permanency and strength are legendary.

Important Safety Note: If you decide to weld instead of glue, use extreme caution! Fuel fumes, even in empty long-standing tanks, can be violently explosive when subjected to enough heat.

Be sure you use touch-up paint to protect any bare steel. I used rattle-can, Rustoleum, primer paint, but brush-on touch-up paint would work, too. Just be sure it's a paint type made for outdoor, and metal, use. This won't show once the tank is mounted on the bike, so it doesn't have to be pretty. It just has to prevent rust.

Tip: If using spray paint, be sure to expose only the area you want painted. Use masking tape to prevent over-spray from drifting onto a surface which might be visible when the tank is mounted. This is one time where an ounce of prevention is truly worth a pound of cure.

Important Note: The tabs do not show when the tank is mounted, HOWEVER, you must use extra care when mounting your tank because the tabs ride close to the engine's valve covers. Don't want to scratch anything!