I've been dealing with similar issues with the carb and rich condition. I have a 2000 RSS. Barons BAK, Freedom Performance Racing 4" duals, Barons Ported Manifold, but I really ported it and rounded the corners so there is a very good smooth radius. I've been told that this porting will richen the mixture. Well it does. I've slowly reduced my main down to a 162.5 and now I'm on the third from the top needle slot with the donut and a washer under the clip. Still running rich. I've trimmed the choke knob, cleaned the air cleaner, even run it without an air cleaner. Last week my rear plug started fouling. I'm getting to the point that I may call SS Customs and get their HSR42 also.

One last ditch try, my plugs has about 200-300 miles on them. I started reading on the NGK site about spark plug heat ranges....see below this came from the NGK SPARK PLUG SITE. So I decided to go one step hotter on my plugs!!! It helped hugely. Here's my thinking... I have a modified engine, the stock plug doesn't run hot enough to correctly burn the misture that is being delivered. And I don't ride like a grandpa!

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/tech-talk/spark-plug-basics

CAUSES OF CARBON FOULING
*Continuous low-speed driving and/or short trips
*Spark plug heat range too cold
*Air-fuel mixture too rich
*Reduced compression and oil usage due to worn piston rings/cylinder walls
*Over-retarded ignition timing
*Ignition system deterioration
Pre-delivery fouling:
Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature of approximately 450°C (842°F). Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator nose when the self-cleaning temperature is reached. When the heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the firing end temperature will stay below 450°C and carbon deposits will accumulate on the insulator nose. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator nose to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.

If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator nose can usually be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be replaced and the fouling cause identified.

And so far after years of screwing around with what the previous owner started with a DynoJet kit, it actually runs better today (40 mile test with hotter plugs) than it EVER HAS! For the first time I have a dark brown plug in back and a more tan colored plug in front! The power and crispness of the throttle is so much better. I'm using a lot less throttle to do the same stuff and when I go to start the engine, it fires up immediately! My gut says I will also get better mileage.

The reasons for the 42 are many...first you dont have to touch the damn thing, no fuel pump needed, no flat spots or hiccups or puking. Runs perfect out of the box. Just too easy to fix a problem that every one of the Roadies had...wrong carb from the factory. Yes the stock carb can be made to run just fine but you get a fair amount of pain before it does and then the fuel pump will die!

Will this work and , if so , what parts do I have to have to install it and make it work properly ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/182528090777?ul_noapp=true

Guess that question has no relevance now, carb is sold.

So , how about this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Mikuni-HSR-42-mm-Carburetor-Carb-/322486747764?hash=item4b15b54274:g:8EkAAOSwWWxY9Y7s&vxp=mtr

Pulling exhaust today. Wish me luck. These allen nuts look terrible, been soaking them for days.Looks like the flanges are warped/bent wicked bad. Someone must have REALLY over tightened them.

good article on the home page on how to straighten the flanges.......good luck

Thank you !

So this may help you. I've had a rich condition also. Texasscott1 suggested that I look at the idle air jets to make sure they were not plugged or changed. Turns out the secondary air jet sitting right in the mouth of the carb (two holes, one on the left has a jet, you unscrew and clean it) was my issue, took a very small drill and unplugged it and it leaned out quite a bit.