Ok I had to rejett was getting horiable gas mileage and the bike wouldnt go past 90 and seemed to always get flooded on start up now it has a hicup around the 1/4 to 1/2 postion needle 3rd clip jet I bumped up to dj190 from mikuni 172.5 and pms is 2.5 not sure if I should turn out pms screw or add washer to needle for a half step also it pops a little on decel hard to hear if not listening for it so what u guys think iam I on the right track

Seen your profile shows something like a V&H longshots and a BAK, but you listed True Duals below. Always helps to know.

That DJ 190 is about a 177.5 Mikuni equvalent. That's pretty rich for a fairly stock 1700. Most land on the 172.5 or the 175 at the outside. First things first, get the main where it needs to be. The good help here will want to know your intake, exhaust, needle type, position, shimming, float height, if you are running pumpless or not, if so, valve size and routing info, and pilot jet size to get you pointed in the right direction.

If you did not have the popping on decel before, you may need to add just a touch of PMS screw, but that's usually a band-aid for an air leak. If you just changed pipes and did not do gaskets, or if you did change the gaskets but never re-torqued your pipes after a heat cycle or two, I would try the re-torque first. Flooding on startup does not sound like something that should happen if you don't stroke the throttle more than once PRIOR to startup with the PMS setting you have given.

I'm not really a R* carb guy but it sounds like you were running rich to start with. Wouldn't going to a bigger main jet be the wrong way to go?

JD has you on the right path. It looks to me also that you're running too rich now. Start by checking for an exhaust leak. Then, list all of the information JD mentioned so we can help you adjust. Just get us everything you have available for now and we'll go from there.

Needle type, and main jet affect 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, although if you use a fat needle too low, or a skinny one too high, it can make your main not work for you. If you got crappy mileage and wouldn't pull past 90 MPH with a 172.5 main jet in a 1700 then something is missing from the puzzle. What is the loading of the bike? What tire pressures are you running? What brand needle and position did you have with the 172.5? Did you try pulling the enrichener at WOT and seeing if the bike pulled more or bogged? That's a fast check for lean on top, but too much fuel will keep you from pulling out too. Can't say if you are going the right direction unless we understand where you started. You describe a lean symptom at WOT(won't go past 90) but have a rich symptom as well (poor MPG) along with a rich symptom at idle (flooding?) The popping on decel is almost ALWAYS from an air leak, but in rare cases can be due to a lean condition in the coasting profile. Please let us know where you started with everything, and we can help.

I got a set of freedom profromance duals 4inch and a bak airfilter orginal setting was dj needle set to fourth clip pms 2.75 turns out and mikuni jet 172.5 & ported manifold the flooding and bad milage was with this setting I the new setting is dj needle set to 3rd groove and dj jet cuz ididnt have a mukuni 175 and pms 2.50 plus ported manifold now symptoms are the light poping and a hicup like around 1/4 I hope that is enough also pulled plugs before the change and they were grayish white and I always had black smoke reving the bike and bike was under normal load just me riding solo when it didnt wana go more than 90
I used new gaskets when I got these pipes and have retorqued them but how to check for other leaks

leave everything as is, except add another washer. If no washer go to 4th groove. 3rd groove with a Barons or even a DJ needle can be a bit iffy.

Did you check the float level???? I would also try a little more on the PMS 1/4 at a time.

You might try a second washer/shim, under the plastic spacer below the clip(two total).
If it's flooding on start up, you might need to have a look at the float valve(needle and seat). If it's letting fuel past, or fuel is getting around the outside of it(bad oring seal), it'd ruin your mileage and the extra rich situation at start up would result as well.
Check the float level when your in there.

1/4 throttle is transition point from lower speed pilot to main fuel metering system so just try 1 washer under clip for jet needle and see if fattening it up a bit helps.

My 06 silverado was doing was thing and taking pms out to 3+ didnt help so i put pms back to a more realistic 2.5 turns out from light seat and tried putting washer under needle clip and walla,dpoing that richened it up just enough to stop the hickup/stumble when holding throttle at or when transitioning thru 1/4 throttle point.

Many people here in RSC say doing that wont fix that problem at low throttle position but i can tell you from 1st hand exp wrenching bike/dialing in carbs it fixed it for my R* and may very well work for you too.

Its worth the 15-20 mins it takes to make that adj.

If you find it helped a lot but didnt quite fix it 100% then pull the washer back out and try going a full step lower on needle clip adj.

My 06 R* with pipes,smaller 31t drive pulley,riding 2 up with all stock bags and aftermarket bags on rear rack full(Bikes HEAVY!!) with tall windscreen and the carb tweaks i did to get it running perfect gets approx 35-36mpg in town and 40-42 on open road.

But if 9i were to ride 1 up,dump all the bags & weight,lower or remove windscreen,replace 31t drive pulley with stock 32t pulley and thats when i would see 37-38mpg in mixed driving and 44-45mpg (maybe a bt more) on the open road.

BTW,theres another approach richening up 1/4 throttle transition point which is to install a larger 37.5 pilot jet so theres more fuel avail when transitioning from low speed pilot circut to main which can also work.

Scott