I have been working on it for a week and let me tell you it's a big pain in the button. Never have I seen brake bleeding this hard on a bike. I put a longer upper brake hose on because of the risers and apes and with that I went ahead a rebuilt the master cylinder because I could not get it to bleed. I bled the master cylinder twice as each time I would lose prime for whatever reason and then I just let it sit for a couple of days because I was figgin passed. No sense on working in with an attitude. So today I go out and went from step 1 to doing it the same again and then I said well let's change the upper brake line back to the oem and see if that will work. Well I didn't change it out, I change the banjo bolts out to the oem ones and bongo I got pressure and most of the air is out. I just had to stop because it's very hot and humid and needed water and a/c. Will go back out later. Now I don't know if that was my problem or not but I had no leakage around those areas but as soon as I changed them its now working. Those new banjos came with the new hose and so who would have thought by changing back to oem would work. Just wanted to throw this out to you guys in case you have the same problem I had.😆😆

JAKEUSAF did mine in a hotel parking lot in the dark while drinking and it only took 30 minutes or so. Me thinks something isn't working right for you it shouldn't be that hard.

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One thing I use are Speedbleeders which takes away the need to keep opening the wheel bleeding screws. I did once have a lot of trouble because there was air trapped in the tee where the line splits into two lines for the front brakes. I was able to move the bubble by laying the bike over most of the way on it's side to get the bubble to move into the line for the other side of the hose.

There are many sources for bleeders.

https://www.speedbleeder.com

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Mine has both front brake lines running from the master cylinder. I used the Motion Pro hydraulic brake pump to bleed the system and it went great!

MJScore wrote:
Mine has both front brake lines running from the master cylinder. I used the Motion Pro hydraulic brake pump to bleed the system and it went great!

With a double line it should make it easy. The issue with the oem setup is air bubbles at the splitter can sometimes be a PITA get get out.

Speed bleeder with a Mighty Vac...few taps on the splitter with a screwdriver handle and u will be done in 30 minutes. Ask me how I know...lol been there done that....

Derailed75 wrote:
JAKEUSAF did mine in a hotel parking lot in the dark while drinking and it only took 30 minutes or so. Me thinks something isn't working right for you it shouldn't be that hard.

hahahaha this is very true dave but flushing fresh fluid through is not nearly as hard as when you have to change a line out and the master cylinder is clogged. I just went though this with my new project bike and it took me a couple hours to get it together. I bought a reservoir that I filled up half way with fresh fluid and used it on the bleeder screw so that it pumped just fluid and no air and that worked out great.

sometimes even with vacuum bleeder, u just have to wait overnite for bubbles to get out. on any bike..... maybe a vibrator would work?

brianmac wrote:
maybe a vibrator would work?

You would have better luck asking your wife permission to wash your carb in the kitchen sink then rebuilding it on the new kitchen table.

My wife hates it when I bring parts in the house whether it's new or not but her firefighting and ems gear is. Huh!