Well..... this one has me scratching my head. Ive never had an issue after opening a carburetor on a bike.

I was having the all too common problem of fuel puking out the intake at key on with the engine hot. Problem started on a long cruise from KS to NM.

Wednesday night I pulled the carb off my '05, removed the slide/needle diaphragm, plunger with white cap (name?), and float bowl. I pulled and cleaned the jets and installed a new float needle and seat. Put everything back together as it was pulled apart. The mixture screw was set 3.5 turns out. Going against my gut, i set it to the recommended 2.5. O-ring is OK

Once carb was back in the bike, i ran it up the road. Severe loss of power under accel. It used to try to run out from under me, now it wont outrun my 800. When i opened up the throttle, it would hesitate 1-2 seconds before accel. During accel, it felt like it was cutting out randomly, like a cylinder miss, but i couldnt hear any miss from the exhaust.

I pulled it apart again last night, reset the screw to 3.5 where it was. I thought my adjustment caused the problem. Opened the carb back up, checked accelerator pump and needle- operated properly. No visible issues. Put everything back together. All screws and clamps tight. All intake/vacuum/fuel lines connected and secure.

Now theres no hesitation when i open it up, but its still a dog. And if i dont completely close the throttle on decel, or if i let off just to lower speed about 10-15mph, i hear popping from the exhaust that wasnt present prior to carb work.

I didnt remove the intake Y, but it almost sounds like a vacuum/intake leak somewhere. Anyone how some suggestions before i tear it apart again to replace the Y manifold, seals, and diaphragms in the carb?

Note: im a diesel mechanic and work on my bikes as a "hobby". So i know the jist of how the engine operates, but natural aspiration is not my strongest point lol

If you're absolutely positive you got it back together correctly, then the next time you're riding, ease the Enricher out about half when you experience the doggie behavior. If it runs right again, then it's very possible messing with the carb, may have created an air leak at the manifold to heads flange.

Did you get the washers and spacers back on the needle correctly?
Did you mess with the throttle linkage so it isn't opening properly? Maybe to much slack?

I did adjust the throttle pull cable cause it was loose to begin with. Its still got alittle free play, but not enough to affect anything.i didnt mess with the needle the first time. I did pull it last night. Put it back together in the slide as follows.....

Top white plug
Spring
Washer
Clip at 4th groove
White spacer
Washer

It kinda flew apart when i pulled the needle. But i think thats how the needle was setup on my other bike.

midwestrider01 wrote:
I did adjust the throttle pull cable cause it was loose to begin with. Its still got alittle free play, but not enough to affect anything.i didnt mess with the needle the first time. I did pull it last night. Put it back together in the slide as follows.....

Top white plug
Spring
Washer
Clip at 4th groove
White spacer
Washer

It kinda flew apart when i pulled the needle. But i think thats how the needle was setup on my other bike.

That's the correct stack up.

Just a single groove needle?

Check to make sure you don't have a coil wire grounding on the throttle cables or something else.

Its got 6 grooves i think. And the main jet had 185 on it. K&N aftermarket filter setup with V&H long shots, baffled.

I wondered about that. I did have to unplug the throttle position and carb heater plugs. Thought maybe the position signal was screwy. But everything looked fine.

midwestrider01 wrote:
Its got 6 grooves i think. And the main jet had 185 on it. K&N aftermarket filter setup with V&H long shots, baffled.

I wondered about that. I did have to unplug the throttle position and carb heater plugs. Thought maybe the position signal was screwy. But everything looked fine.

By unplug, do you mean you removed it at the carb via the tamper proof screws, or just unplugged the connector up by the backbone?

Where does the crankcase vent line connect to now, the back of the air filter housing?

Check the diaphragm for proper installation in the groove and for any pin holes or rips. Even the smallest hole of any kind will effect the needle from lifting properly.

Unplugged from main electrical harness, LH side of the backbone. And yes, vent hose to rear side of filter.

I cleaned the sealing grooves of both diaphragms, and applied a very small amount of grease to the sealing edges the second time opened. This seems to help A/C seals and O-rings to seal better when secured. Itd be nice if its just the diaphragm, though $40+ is crazy for a new one. Both diaphragm caps look good, not warped or cracked.

Did you get the Jets back in the correct places? The main in the end of the emulsion tube below the needle, and the starter jet that looks like it doesn't have a hole, off to the side?

Are you sure the Main was a 185, and not a 182.5? Was there anything else on the head of the jet besides the 185?

Make sure the float level is set correctly too since you replaced the needle and seat.