davej wrote:
ctkog wrote:
davej wrote:
ctkog wrote:
dbopl wrote:
I have the last question

is it necessary to set the valve clearance?


The hydraulic valve-lifting mechanism maintains a valve clearance of zero so for the most part valve clearance adjustments aren't necessary on the r* (per the manual). But it's a real simple to check for zero backlash, and I would want to make sure I'm as close to zero backlash as possible so I don't have a noisy valve train.

After tightening down your rocker bolts, with the cylinder at TDC check the intake pushrod with your fingers. There should be no up and down movement. If you have no up and down movement move on to the exhaust and do the same check. If you have up and down movement adjust your rockers until the movement is gone. It's better to know that the rocker is making slight contact with BOTH intake valve stems than to have slop and noise in your valve train IMO (same with the exhaust). I believe hydraulic lifters are meant to have some preload anyway so being sure you're contacting both stems is not going to hurt anything and give you a quieter running roadstar.


That is not at all the type of adjustment are bikes have. The adjuster on our bikes is a "synchronizing adjustment only". There is no pushrod up/down movement adjustment going on. It's obvious you have never had the valve cover off on a Roadstar to see what the adjustment is all about. The adjustment "ONLY" insures that both valves per cylinder (Intake and exhaust) open at the same time. Only 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve per cylinder has an adjustment screw. Our bikes have 4 valves per cylinder and 2 rocker assembly's per cylinder. That is why synchronization of the valves is needed and only 1 adjuster per rocker assembly.

I have dave. There's a way to do it to where both are in contact. I've replaced my lifters before.

I'm not sure where I said there is more than 1 adjuster on each rocker. I can't find it.

As I said synchronization "ONLY" That is when they are "Both in contact" as you are now calling it. There is no Up/Down pushrod adjustment. With the exception that Scott mentioned with adjustable pushrods. that is not the case in this situation. I have those on my bike due to a Big Bore kit and PR cams "I" installed. You never actually said there were 2 adjusters but you sure did try and make it seem as if there was an Up/down pushrod adjustment along with the adjuster on the other side of the rocker. Also the way you described the adjustment procedure is completely wrong also. Read the manual for the correct procedure.

Apologies to mislead with pushrods looking like part of the actual adjustment. I did a poor job also of describing the adjustment part so I'll try it again. Yeah the system is "synchronous" I guess whatever. But there are times when the valve clearances need to be adjusted manually so both stems have proper clearance. So starting with the non-adjustable end of the rocker (the slip side) at TDC, if it has excess clearance I adjust the adjustment screw (at the other end of the rocker) to bring the slip side to the spec clearance.(I shoot for slight contact because my manual says cold clearance .0000 - .0016). After that I check if I have excess clearance on the adjustable end and if so bring that also to zero clearance as possible. So that's where I came up with the comment about adjusting both stem clearances. It IS possible, because it's spelled out that way right in the manual. Maybe it's just me but I always grab the pushrods and check up and down to make sure I didn't miss something or had the pushrod out of the lifter somehow. I think we would all agree that the pushrods should not move up and down at all! Hopefully this isn't confusing.

Just hold the non adjustable rocker down onto its push rod and valve while you adjust the adjustable rocker to zero lash.

dbopl wrote:
I have another question about ht2011
These lifters have a different construction

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hZ5QB5eB302dbu5n2

the original washer has holes

it's not a problem ?

install new lifters empty? or fill with a little oil?
Pump them up. If the holes in the disc make any difference, you can't tell running it. I've had HT2011s in my bike for 65k miles and never had a bleed down issue.

Damn I'm glad I don't have flat tappets!

Shores wrote:
Just hold the non adjustable rocker down onto its push rod and valve while you adjust the adjustable rocker to zero lash.


+1 That's perfect. Very simply put.

ctkog wrote:
Shores wrote:
Just hold the non adjustable rocker down onto its push rod and valve while you adjust the adjustable rocker to zero lash.


+1 That's perfect. Very simply put.

Well, you push down on the valve stem side of the rocker and set the adjustment to zero lash on the other valve stem.

Pushing down on the the push rod side would defeat the purpose.

everything is OK

motorcycle works great

BikerRon wrote:
ctkog wrote:
Shores wrote:
Just hold the non adjustable rocker down onto its push rod and valve while you adjust the adjustable rocker to zero lash.


+1 That's perfect. Very simply put.

Well, you push down on the valve stem side of the rocker and set the adjustment to zero lash on the other valve stem.

Pushing down on the the push rod side would defeat the purpose.

True good catch, I read his post as tho he meant push down on the rocker against the stem... maybe Shores actually meant that but didn't state it as such. I sure do that sometimes.

Glad your bike is running good dopl!!