I'm wanting to wire mine to be on all the time, day and night. Low and high beam. I couls ask a guy at the bike shop to do it. But the main mechanics are so swamped right now with atv's. If I had a wire diagram I could very easily do it. I'm not a wireing kind of person. Lol.

I installed the pass lights on my bike a few years back. I still have the directions that came with the lights. I scanned them and tried to attach them here but they are too big. If you want them, send me your email addy.

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You would simply supply the power from an always on source. I would use a relay and still have it switchable. If anything happens to your bike on the road....... and you need more than normal cranking your going to burn up your battery shining your stuck on lights.

I do not advise that. In fact I am all for a Everything off switch. So when cranking ALL your doing is cranking. It's hard on the whole electrical system to try to crank and burn lights.

To tap into the headlamp circuit is iffy at best, Your going to overload that circuit's fuse, relay, and wires. And when something blows..........Your in the Dark! On a 3000 mile trip Schatzie and I blew a headlamp at about 10 PM, Both sides H & L, (It was a bad socket) The AUX lights being on a separate circuit got us on to the hotel where I fixed the problem.

What I advise is to run a separate Power supply from the battery with it's own fuse at the battery, bring the heavy wire up into the Headlamp housing and use a waterproof relay (Boat Store or Autozone) and let it only be powered up when the headlamps are on AND switch it. That way you can leave it on as you describe so it comes on when the headlamps do. OR you have the option to switch it off.

This is all pretty basic wiring, you wire it so it works, then install a small switch between the trip and the relay trip wires.

To wire it like you discribe is asking for trouble in two ways.

If I was home I could do you a diagram. Here is what you do.
1. Buy a 10 Awg Red wire and Wire loom for it AND a Mini Blade 30 AMp Fuse and Fuse holder. (Because your bike takes mini amp anyways and has accommodations for a spare in the fuse box)

2. Attach the Fuse holder to the wire on one end, Solder the connection and heat shrink it and friction tape it one layer. 2a, Now slide the Wire loom all the way down the wire and tape it every 8 inches or so and to the Fuse holder wire. 2b Take the other end and run it under your tank and into the headlamp housing where all the other wires go. Secure the wire and be sure your routing does not contact hot points. I use the Velcro Wire securing strips and attach to stock wire harness.

Congrats, You now have fused Beefy power to your headlamp. ArG ARG!

3. Buy Your Waterproof Relay. (I have used a normal good quality relay with success by waterproofing it myself in some fashion, rescue tape, a baggie, a Golf club tube,)

Now you are ready to wire your relay. All you ever want to know about a relay.
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html
But you merely need this one. A simple 4 pole relay. If you find a 5 only, Just forget the middle pole.
http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

4. Connect a Male Spade to the wire from your battery (The red fused Loomed wire that you ran into the headlamp housing. Now, 4a. Now connect that wire to the #30 on the relay.

5. Connect a Grounded wire to the 85 Terminal. (I like a separate ground from the battery myself, but there are ground wires already there you can tap or use a grounding (Star Washer and ground to a metal frame ground)
NOTE, THe reason I run the seperate ground is to isolate the system from the factory system, that way if you get a ground problem on one circut you don't have it or are unlikely to have it on both circuts.

6. Hook the wire that supplies power to your Aux lights to the 87 Terminal.

7. Here is where it gets tricky. (Sorta) The 86 Terminal TRIPS the relay. If you run that direct to your high and low OR high OR low Headlamp power wire, the Aux lights will come one when that circuit is energized.
THE LAW is it must only come on with the Low Headlamps. So you would hook it to the Low beam POS wire.
If you want it to come on with both, You just hook it to any wire that comes on with the bike key Ing ON!

7.a I suggest, you hook it to (By a Tap) any wire that comes on with the Bike Ing on. Then Put a switch in that line. (You tap, then cut the wire and switch it, a very small switch such as the stock sized aux light switch is all that is needed since the RELAY and HEAVY wire is going to carry the load, that switch is just going to trip the relay.)

In this way.
Big power comes from the batter,
Goes to relay,
Relay gets tripped when bike IGN. is on,
Power flows to lights. (When switch is on)

Yet, if you have bike trouble and want to cut the extra drain, you simply switch the switch off for extra cranking capacity.

Again, great write up here. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through it.

Is it possible to use the carb heater wire for switched power to the passing lamps? Like many I see the value in putting the headlight and passing lamps on separate circuits. Currently I have them wired per the orig instructions; tapped in the power in the headlight housing with an inline fuse. Ideally I would like to remove the one red wire tap and run it to an existing switched circuit. I thought of adding a relay and tapping IGN power when I dawned on me to consider the carb heater circuit, if possible, since I removed my carb heater and its 10 amp fuse.

Possible?

Sorta possible. Im afraid that circut may be intermitient like the fuel pump circut. Your best bet is to run a wire from acc on supply to a switch. then out to the lights that way you can start the bike with those lights off and they will automatically go off when the bike turns off.

I hate tapping into things that go into the ECM. Its VooDoo.

MS1700 wrote:
Sorta possible. Im afraid that circut may be intermitient like the fuel pump circut. Your best bet is to run a wire from acc on supply to a switch. then out to the lights that way you can start the bike with those lights off and they will automatically go off when the bike turns off.

I hate tapping into things that go into the ECM. Its VooDoo.

Mine is a 99 and I installed the lightbar a few years back. I feared the carb circuit would be intermittent but I recall folks saying they used it for a GPS and other things.

Even with the switch (cheap switch I should say) on the light fixture you would still use a second one for the circuit?

I am looking for the Dia. size of the stock driving lights for a 2000 R* Silverado. I have scanned through all of the OEM parts diagrams and accessories listing, and can not find a reference for the stock driving light bar at all. I bought the bike used, but there was nothing aftermarket on it, so I am assuming that the light bar is stock, the driving lights have the same chrome visor over them as the headlight. (only smaller) I am thnking they are perhaps 3-1/2".(It has the small dinky little cheap toggle switch on the side of it)

If anyone can let me know what size they are, I would greatly appreciate it.

Also, I am trying to go with a PIAA H3 in the driving lights, but I am not sure if the original lens is set up for an H3 lamp. If they are then great, but if not I will need to find a replacement H3 compatible lens in the correct size.

I am overseas at the moment but will be returning for an R&R in mid November and wanted to have the parts selected and ordered so they would arrive in time for installation

If anyone has the stock light bar and can confirm the size and let me know if it is H3 ready I would appreciate it.

Thanks

The size of the standard sealed beam and the H3 Tri bar lights are the same size 4 1/2" dia. The lens for the Tri bar is this number from Stadium Yamaha in Texas other dealers it may be more. The bar itself is the same as the standard bar.

1 of STR-4WM35-50-EA - Yamaha - LENS, REPL, TRI-BAR @$23.39ea.