Ok I'm going to walk you through diagnosing your Aux light problems. You may or may not have to skip some parts but it's pretty much all here. I can add to it. Just PM me and I willedit next time I am jacking with them or someone Else's. This post has about all you need to know to solve your AUX light problems Whole or in Part. Wiring is second nature to me but I try to break it down here for even someone who has never done it before. All tools are common or had cheaply at An Auto store as well as switches, in line fuses, relays and terminal ends.
1st the weakest point in the Aux Light system is the switch. It's a very cheap switch and as a lot of electrical things they go bad sometimes from lack of use. I would not replace this switch with the same cheap kind.
In above Pic on left you see the red wires that run to the back of the switch. All your switch does is connect the two wires when on and disconnect them when off. The wires should be soldered as shown. You can test if it is your switch by simply STARTING your bike and press a penny across the two wires on the back of the switch, If they light, your switch has gone bad. If not you have more
problems. The Black wire on the right is the ground wire, this can also be suspect Turn the switch on and jiggle this wire a bit, If you get lights, Bad ground. You can also run a jumper wire from the ground here all the way back to your battery to test the ground. In above pic. Wire in middle of the two red and the black are supply wires and also go to the left light to supply power to it. (From the switch.)
In an emergency you can short your Aux wires at the switch or cut them and tape together, or do as I do and carry a Posi Lock and join them that way (Best way.) Here is a link to Posi Lock Connectors and an illustration on how they work. Two types Blue is But Join and the white is In Line. I carry both.
You can buy them at Tractor Supply locally.
The switch going bad is such a problem I have taped an in line one in the light for 911 use.
The blue one shown is the Butt style,
This is the plug on a 2007 that brings the power for the lights and ground from the supply way back under the seat through the harness and into the headlamp. It is Red For POS and BLK for Neg going to the Aux lights. From the supply it is Blue with a Black Stripe and a Green Dot every 2 inches for Pos. And Black with a green dot every 2 inches for ground. They change color inside the harness and end up Red and Yellow, but I hope you don't get that Far. (I have been there I don't want you going there just yet. It's another How to)
I had a BAD case of no lights, Like Good ground and no power So I had to 1st test my lights to be sure they work. Here I take a jumper bought at harbor freight and hook them to the Aux light Plug and run both POS and Neg back to POS and NEG of the Battery. My lights then lit up and my switch worked, SO my problem is back down the harness towards the Power supply. I seriously doubt you will have this problem on your bike. So I will stop here. 99.9% of the time it will be the switch or the ground.
*If it is the switch, Install a new one.
*If it the ground, Clean it and or re ground it using a grounding washer. (You will have to drill old one out and replace the rivet with a shiny bold and Nut with nut inside.)
If you have no power to the switch you have Large problem and you need to run a new power wire.
OK large problem, This plug under the left side cover on a 2007 is what supplies the power to the Aux lights, I have not tore my harness apart to discover where it changes from Blue and White stripe with green dot to Red with White stripe and Black dot but I can assure you this is the puppy! The Yellow and green in my plug are not used but also test out as Power with bike running Most likely a factory place to install aftermarket items.
I was tired of leaning over to turn off and on my Aux lights and being the switch is a weak link I decided to go around it..... or through it! (In my case I added a switch so I have two, one I use and one I don't.) I installed a second switch on the handle bars> If this seems like something you want to do.....
You pick any switch you want or any location. Just bring the two wires in a loom (Small as your heart desires) from the switch to this location under the left side cover. One wire will go to a in line fuse and Crimped into a female blade with the RED wire from the battery source and plugged onto Terminal 30 of the relay.
The other wire from the switch will have a female Terminal crimped to it and plugged onto the 86 terminal of the relay.
Now buy a relay. You will add your own female blade terminals to the wires.
All wires come to pictured location under left side cover.
Now take a run of RED Wire 12 AWG and run to an in line fuse and to POS of Battery the other end comes to the relay, You add one wire (No matter what one, just put a very small like 2 amp in line fuse in it close to where it hooks to power.) from the switch a Female Blade and crimp the fused wire from the switch and the Red Fused wire from the battery in a Female Terminal and crimp it. Then, Plug onto the 30 Terminal of the relay. (Look at relay you will see marked 30 blade, This is Power in. This sends Power from the battery to the relay and Power from the battery to the switch. The fuses protect in case of any shorts and this is why they should be as close to power source as possible.
Now Put a Female Blade Terminal on the Red Wire with a Black stripe and plug onto the Relay on the 87 terminal. This is Power or POS to the Load. (Your lights) This sends great clean power to your Aux lights and allows you to use small wires from the switch.
Now you will have one terminal left on the relay. 85
Take a Wire from The Neg Battery terminal and run it here, It should be equal to the 12 Awg Wire on the POS.
(Or greater such as 10 AWG) In wires lower numbers mean more wire. Battery cables are typically 2 or 4 AWG wire.
Now for the test.
1st be sure.
Terminal 30 has 2 Red wires, one with a in line fuse going to Battery and another with an in line fuse going to the switch. Both inserted in a female Terminal and crimped and plugged into the relay 30 terminal.
Terminal 85 is same size wire as Pos Wire on 30 Terminal but should be black and go directly to the battery ground. Any ground will do but this will avoid future problems.
Terminal 86 is the other wire from the switch with no fuse on it, it goes into a female terminal and is plugged onto the relay 86 Blade.
Terminal 87 gets hot with the switch you installed on and goes to the Power Demand or load, (Your Aux lights.) or in our case that wire I show in the picture above. OR if you are handy enough you can run a whole new wire to the switch or to the lights. it should be at least 14 AWG wire protected by wire loom.
CAUTION: in this case your relay gets power from the switch, so if you leave your switch on, your lights will be off but the relay will still draw power, (A very small amount that over a few days could drain your battery.) If you do not like this, You can easily power your switch from an ING on only power source by putting the fused wire from the switch to a ING on ONLY power source. (Use a wire tap on one of the other two wires from the pictured plug will do.) My switch is wired direct to battery power because it also powers my GPS that I want to remain on during lunch, It's a lighted switch so I never leave it on for days. If you are not mindful. Wire your switch to get power from an ING on source only. Or.... do it like I did if you have a GPS.
Start the bike as the Aux lights should not work when bike is not running.
You flip the switch,
It draws power through a fused line from the power source, ING ON or BATT (your choice)
The switch in the on position sends the power to the 86 terminal of the relay.
Terminal 85 in the relay gets the ground and trips a small switch in the relay.
Terminal 30 in the relay steal the gigantic and clean power from the Battery and sends it over to
Terminal 87 of the relay and up through the wire to power your lights!
A relay allows better power (AMPS) to your load and allows smaller wires from the switch and a smaller switch. This is why almost all large power loads use a relay, such as Auto Fog or driving lamps.
Wired like this I have good power to my Lights and TWO locations to turn them on and off. I only use the one on the handlebars though and will remove the switch in back of the the lights should it ever go bad.
You will have to stuff the relay under the left cover with the terminals down, Trust me. I know because my problem was because I put mine in Terminals up and since I ride year round the salt got into my relay and made it not work. Dumb move. This time I hung it Terminals down and waterproofed it with Silicone. It was a cheap relay anyways. A good relay hung wires down will be unlikely to have a problem even without waterproofing.
PM me if you discover anything here I need to explain better or is wrong or confusing. I probably gave too much information though huh?