My fuel pump quit on my 2007 Midnight, so it was time to try “Pumpless”. This is my take to cure the starvation problem, some have had. I removed all of the OEM pump/filter/bracket. I pulled the small filter from the carb intake tube. I vented the fuel tank cap as instructed in the Tech articles. I did NOT replace the needle-seat with the Grizzly. I did insulate the fuel line from the filter to carb.

After doing my version of “Pumpless” I ran the Road Star at 70mph for three miles in 3rd gear. Also I have put around 600 miles on it since without a problem.



Parts Needed;
07-09 XVS1300A Petcock, OEM # 4JT-24500-20-00, $43 from Stadium Yamaha, This Petcock
does not have a reserve position, simple on/off function. I bought mine off Ebay $10.
Inline Filter, Valmar 52125 from Advance Auto, $12.
1/8” pipe x 5/16” hose straight metal fitting. I had one on hand.
1/8” pipe x 5/16” hose 90 degree brass fitting. Also on hand.
Pipe Tape.
Hose Clamps.
OEM Filter to Pump Hose and Spring.
Heavy Plastic, To make hanger.
Petcock Valve Seal Kit (optional) K & L 18-2727, Ebay $15.
5/16” OD Straight Tubing. I robbed a piece from an old Dehumidifier.
Your Petcock Valve/Handle.

Note; Our petcock # 4WN-24500-10-00 is $70 at Stadium. I bought one off Ebay for $12 to play with.
It was listed as off a 2004. It had the smaller outlet fitting, which is in pictures.


Tools needed;
Phillips Screw Driver
Straight Screw Driver
Small Blade Craft Knife
Center Punch
Soft Hammer
Pliers
Emery Paper/Bench Grinder
Tube Cutter/Hack Saw
1/4” drill
Vice, very helpful

Photo 1; The two petcocks I bought off Ebay. I wanted the outlet fitting facing forward to make
room for an inline filter. If your not worried about reserve, use xvs1300 petcock as is.



Photo 2; The two petcocks with valves removed, little fuzzy, but I think you can see the difference.



Photo 3; This inlet tube is staked in place, use the craft knife at the base to cut away metal holding it. The removed tube will not be reused.



Photo 4: Cut the 5/16” OD tube length to your liking, some here have suggested to shorten the length.
I ran the 1/4” drill thru the copper tubing to increase the ID, it didn't take out much.
The OD of the 5/16” tubing fit a little loose in the removed inlet tube hole. I placed the tubing onto the taper of my center punch and with the punch on the workbench, struck the tubing with a soft hammer to flare the end a little larger. After inserting the 5/16” tubing flared end into the petcock, I staked it in place with the center punch. Now using the inlet filter sock from your original petcock, you'll have to grind/sand the OD of the tubing to make it fit.



Photo 5; This hole is also undersized. Carefully drill it to 1/4”. The drill will garb so you might want to gently hold it in a vice.



Photo 6; The plastic fittings, which come with the inline filter, have an ID of.187”. Don't use them, it defeats the purpose. I had metal fittings on hand, which I drilled the ID to .250”. I used a 90 degree fitting on the outlet side of the filter, I drilled both ends to .250” also.



Photo 7; This is the original fuel hose from OEM filter to pump. I fashioned a heavy plastic hanger
(next photo) to support the new inline filter. I'll see how it holds up, may have to make one from aluminum later. The valve in the photo is from the petcock I purchased to play with. I replaced it with mine after completing the project.



Photo 8; Finished project. I fashioned the enricher bracket form aluminum and the AIS in now removed.




Submitted by Jinxpress, September 30, 2016

Nice work but i have had two of those glass filters and both ended up leaking badly after a year or so. Keep a eye on them.

Great write up and thank you for sharing.

Ride safe.

That's a great writeup. You might not have known it at the time but the stock petcock will flow more fuel than the engine can possibly use and that's with the stock tank vent. As you probably noticed 70 mph in third doesn't take much throttle so not as much fuel is being used as one might think. If you're still running the stock airbox you'll find that full throttle blasts in 4th or 5th with the stock needle and seat will empty the bowl pretty quick. That's because the stock airbox combined with the external bowl vent makes for a richer mixture at high engine loads.

Those who have installed a BAK or its equivalent seem to have eliminated the starvation problem because those filters seem to be able to keep the pressure inside the filter at atmospheric.

It's my understanding the stock petcock is plenty adequate, too. I've never vented a cap, either. I run K&N universal air filters, as well. Also, I've never done anything to the inlet needle and valve.

I've not experienced fuel starvation, though I've run for several hours, in 5th, at 75 and 80 on Interstate 95. Fuel mileage surely suffered that trip, but I got home pretty quick!

I've done this to 2 of my R*s, with no problems. Others have not had as good of an experience as I've had.

It seems that the most critical factor is the length and routing of the fuel line! I bent it inward, over the intake, and right down to the carb inlet tube. To the left of the intake, before it goes over and down, I have an in-line gas filter, FF 1203, from Autozone... just a few bucks.

It's worked well for me twice, try doing the same, and see if it won't be enough for you.

O, and I now use the Baron Profiler gas cap kit, gluing a screw-in seat to the opening, and screwing on their polished, stainless steel low profile cap. It has a breather in it.