YahMaHa wrote:
SKWEARpeg wrote:


I just thought I'd toss it out.

The 195DJ, seems fat(rich) to me for the main, but I'm not that familiar with the Hyper Chargers. They use different air jets in some of their set ups. With the regular BAK's...ie no vacuum operated butterflies, and no changing of air jet's,.... just bumping the mains, and using a multigroove needle, the mains that seem to do best, are around a 180DJ, or a 170 Mikuni in the 1600's. The clip usually ends up in the 4th groove from the top(blunt end of the needle).

No worries & thank you so much for all your help!

Quick question: now that I have the fuel lines from the pump removed can I route the fuel line that runs from tank to carb *over* the throttle body (if that's what it's called?) that connects the cylinders or will that cause a gravity issue?

There are alot of members who have done that to clean up the look, and haven't had any problems(that's actually the intake manifold). I recommend the filter, where as some have left it out. When you start getting air bubbles in the fuel(from sloshing) as you get close to the bottom of the tank, the filter allows them to separate out, and return to the tank.
I ran mine under(so it'd have a nice down sweep), and into the carb. That keeps the filter as vertically oriented as possible, so the air can get back out, and head to the tank.



..and between the cylinders..



That thumb screw looking thing in there, is a Barons PMS. It allows for PMS adjustment, without a screwdriver.

While your tinkering and having the time of your life, here is a nifty and simple way to relocate the Crankcase vent from the back of the stock airbox(hat tip to Erb). Click on the pics, and they'll blow up.
http://weislake.com/sig/mucker/crankcase-filter/erbman.htm
This gets all the oily breath from the motor, out of the fresh air the carb uses. Be sure and cap the fitting on the back of the stock air box, if you do this.

Just what SKWEARpeg said. Great pics

YaMaHa wrote:

Last night I experienced what turned out to be carb puke. Today, after a lot of input on this thread I went about attempting to resolve the issue. I found some heat shield at a "truck & speed shop" and set about putting it on the fuel line.

I decided to turn off the fuel, start the bike & let it run out of gas before starting. So I started the bike, it ran for a bit & died. I knew there was still plenty of fuel in the system, so I went to start it again and nothing. I blew the ignition fuse. I replaced the fuse, turned on the key & the fuel pump didn't make a sound. Tried to start the bike & the fuse popped again. I called my buddy, who owns a 2k Millennium edition Road Star & explained what happened. He said to disconnect the fuel pump wires, replace the fuse & try again. I did & while the bike wouldn't start due to no fuel, it did try to turn over and no fuse pop!

So I ran my fuel line from the tank to the filter & from the filter to the carb. Turned on the fuel & it took some doing, but she finally started! Took awhile to warm up, but once warm the bike ran great...I was really surprised. Low speed cruising was fine, accelerating was fine, high speed cruising was fine, high speed accelerating was fine (got on 95 north and went from 70 to 85 as fast as my slippy clutch would allow). The only "issue" I noticed was some very slight hesitation when cruising steady between 40mph to 50mph. Other than that the bike ran just like it did with the pump.

Now I don't know jack about carbs so I'm going to give y'all the info best as I can so you can make recommendations, etc, based on all the info. Here goes:

2000 Road Star 1600. Main jet is a DJ195. The little set screw (or whatever it's actually called) on the carb is turned out 3 1/2 turns. The needle is all the way "up" I believe? Air intake is a hypercharger with a K&N filter. Pipes are Bubs & do have baffles.

Knowing all that, what, if anything, should I have done (by someone who knows what they're doing) to the carb? Is there anything that will help with that hesitation when cruising between 40-50?

I know once I take out the fuel pump & lines I'll have more room between the jugs so I may be able to get my gravity flow angle a little more downhill than it is. Perhaps that will help?

Oh, I noticed one other thing too...when I shut off the bike there was no carb puke!


Samson wrote:

Dynojet #195 mainjet is the right main for the DJ Fuel needle e-clip on 2nd slot, hesitation you describe at 40-50 is in the CV40 diaphgram fuel needle, delivery and butterfly operation of the Hyper-charger. ya might be getting to much fuel in that area 40-50 cruise in 4th gear... if it was me i would install the grizzley valve as Ricohoc suggested...

1. remove the carb fuel inlet stem ( screen ) toss it in the garbage ya don't need it!

2 remove the fuel filter. " for now..."

3. adjust the float tab richer use a buffalo nickel as the guage____it works for cying out loud Ken Sexton Carb Float bowl set-up.

4. vent speedo side of fuel locking cap. OR better yet enlarge with 1/8 drill bit Fuel tank Vent Stem. zip tie a foam filter on it, such as Erbman uses on his..

5. remove the roll over valve toss it in the garbage...

6. install a larger 5/16 fuel line.... do not cut the fuel petcock straw as others have done "Not necessary"!

7.start with a 175 mikuni "mainjet" and the dynofuel needle e-clip on 5th slot pms screw at 3 turns from seated position. keep the same 37.5 PJ in there for now !

take it for a ride..... do a spark plug reading on "1 and "3 will stop there.......

get back when you have performed thease task

if yer looking for fuel mileage 175 MJ
performance 170-172.5 MJ with the dynofuel needle..

keep in mind i'm narrowing this down to 2 mainjets changes... so ya only have to be in the carb bowl maybe twice.

hopefully ya have allen screws in float bowl if so you do not have to remove the carb!!!!!!!!!!

others can walk ya thru step by step ya can do all this in a weekend...
especially those who are not mechanics,

Thanks again for all the info!

Samson, I'll be getting back to you once my buddy has had a chance to work on the carb. I'm not a mechanic so that's beyond my scope of abilities.

Btw, I couldn't find the filter you're running, skwearpeg, but I did find this one (pictured above) at Advance Auto. It has adapters for 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8. It can be taken apart & cleaned too, so it's a lifetime filter for $12!

I know I didn't get it as vertical as your setup, but when I had the filter positioned vertically there was a dip in the fuel line...I didn't want that.

I think it looks great. It's alot prettier then mine That'll be fine. The air can sneak back up hill, and I'm a big fan of filtration. Did you pull the little screen filter out of the carb inlet?
I think I see your insulation around the line down in there, I was going to suggest putting the spring fuel line protector on the hose part, but you should be fine.
Without the pump and filter on that side, the heat doesn't hang around like it did before.

SKWEARpeg wrote:
I think it looks great. It's alot prettier then mine That'll be fine. The air can sneak back up hill, and I'm a big fan of filtration. Did you pull the little screen filter out of the carb inlet?
I think I see your insulation around the line down in there, I was going to suggest putting the spring fuel line protector on the hose part, but you should be fine.
Without the pump and filter on that side, the heat doesn't hang around like it did before.

Thank you!

I didn't pull the screen...I'll leave that to my carb guy!

I did put the spring on the fuel line & then put the heat shield over it. I figured since I had the heat shield I may as well use it.

Time to go ride!!!

YahMaHa wrote:


Thanks again for all the info!

Samson, I'll be getting back to you once my buddy has had a chance to work on the carb. I'm not a mechanic so that's beyond my scope of abilities.

Btw, I couldn't find the filter you're running, skwearpeg, but I did find this one (pictured above) at Advance Auto. It has adapters for 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8. It can be taken apart & cleaned too, so it's a lifetime filter for $12!

I know I didn't get it as vertical as your setup, but when I had the filter positioned vertically there was a dip in the fuel line...I didn't want that.

FWIW, my filter is AZ and angled the same way to keep everything more downhill. Works great.

So I got my new fuel sending unit installed a few weeks ago. As I was putting the tank back on the bike and connecting the fuel line from the filter to the tank I noticed something. There was a *very* slight kink in the hose. Not much of one, but one nonetheless. I cut another piece of fuel line about 3/4" longer & that eliminated the kink...but then I noticed the filter was at about a 45 degree angle. No good. So I increased the length of the fuel line from the filter to the carb by about 1 1/2". As a result my fuel filter is almost completely vertical.



What I've noticed is that there is no air at the top of the filter now. Nothing but solid fuel. Even when cruising on the highway at 80+ mph the filter is full. Believe me...I peeked!

I've also noticed that I no longer have the sputtering I had between 40-50 mph. It was weird that it was only between those speeds, but it's gone so that's all I care about!

So at this point I don't think I'm going to mess with anything anymore since everything seems to be pretty good with the way it's running...and since I don't know a thing about jetting or adjusting a carb!

PS - I vented the fuel cap several weeks before replacing the fuel sending unit. It didn't do anything about the sputtering at that time, but I'm thinking it probably helps now that the slight kink from the fuel line is gone.

If its running good leave it alone... Glad you found the problem and glad to hear the sputtering is gone! Pumpless woohoo!!!!!

YahMaHa wrote:
did find this one (pictured above) at Advance Auto. It has adapters for 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8. It can be taken apart & cleaned too, so it's a lifetime filter for $12!

Got any specific info on that fuel filter? Part number, brand, etc.? I want to check it out and order one.

Thanks.