I don't know if this will help any of you FI owners, but you might go on the RSWarrior forum and search for the ECU bump. I am able to change the fuel settings for each cylinder at idle by changing the Co1 and Co2 numbers in the ECU to either lean out or richen the front or rear cylinders to get my plugs to read the same. So i can change the fuel settings at the idle range, i think 500-1300 rpm range, if i change my exhaust to a more performance pipe.

Great Idea River, Thanks. I'm going to remove & clean the injectors, there are several you tube videos out there. I'm not starting on this until later this evening. Any tips or tricks, Do's & Don'ts, what to NOT use, for this process would be appreciated greatly.

Gilly, are you saying i CAN remap my cylinders? I was kinda thinkin' they were locked or something from a previous post. Thanks in advance - Gadget

Gadgetman728 wrote:
Great Idea River, Thanks. I'm going to remove & clean the injectors, there are several you tube videos out there. I'm not starting on this until later this evening. Any tips or tricks, Do's & Don'ts, what to NOT use, for this process would be appreciated greatly.

Gilly, are you saying i CAN remap my cylinders? I was kinda thinkin' they were locked or something from a previous post. Thanks in advance - Gadget
If you hook the bike up to an EGA through the ports on the headpipes you can check and adjust the CO% for each cylinder at idle. Yamaha provides a spec for the percentage. Sounds like yours could be off on one cylinder. Just remember, the AIS has to be disabled when the procedure is performed.

Thanks Texasscott1 -
Sorry to sound stupid, but after it's hooked up to an EGA, how does one adjust the CO%?

THere must be a program out there - and a cord, so i can hook it up to my laptop - any leads?
As suggested, I'm heading over to the warrior forum and look around. Thanks everyone.

AIS is removed

Gadgetman728 wrote:
Thanks Texasscott1 -
Sorry to sound stupid, but after it's hooked up to an EGA, how does one adjust the CO%?

THere must be a program out there - and a cord, so i can hook it up to my laptop - any leads?
As suggested, I'm heading over to the warrior forum and look around. Thanks everyone.

AIS is removed
There is a certain wire that is disconnected from the ignitor and grounded. Then diagnostic mode is entered and the adjustment is made if needed. I can't remember which wire is grounded - it's different for the different bikes. Your dealer should know the procedure and should also have the EGA. If not then Yamaha can lead them through it.

Adjusting the CO% won't improve performance unless of course the cylinders are out of balance.

Gadgetman728 wrote:
Great Idea River, Thanks. I'm going to remove & clean the injectors, there are several you tube videos out there. I'm not starting on this until later this evening. Any tips or tricks, Do's & Don'ts, what to NOT use, for this process would be appreciated greatly.

Gilly, are you saying i CAN remap my cylinders? I was kinda thinkin' they were locked or something from a previous post. Thanks in advance - Gadget

I am saying that on my Warrior i can clip a wire that is looped between terminal 27-29 on my ECU and ground one of them, i think it was 29, and go into my diagnostics and pull up the factory Co numbers and change them to add or subtract fuel in the low idle range. The range it affects i think is 500rpm- 1500rpm. If my rear cylinder is richer than the front, i can take some fuel away from the rear to match the front. If i just change to an after market pipe that leans my bike out, i can richen it up a bit so i can run that pipe without being to lean. Now if i change the intake, pipes and other stuff, i would have to get a fuel management unit to take care of that, which is what i have done.

Thanks for the clarification Gilly. BTW - Sweet Ride. I'm not really after any performance increase, that will come with a more efficiently tuned engine.

That being said - I am a control freak, and have tuned all my other bikes to the very best - meaning smoothest running, best mpg. Once these engines are broken in, if they are properly maintained, they only require minimum adjustments to keep them running great.

Maybe the fuel injector just needs replaced, and there is nothing wrong with the ECU, or it's ability to adjust for current conditions. If I were to just go ahead and replace the injectors, I probably should replace both injectors at the same time - right?

My bikes PO, rode this bike as a commuter from Murdock Ks. to Wichita Ks. for work. He didn't ride it for pleasure as much as just for work. He had all the maintenance done at the same place he bought it, which is the same place I bought it too.
They, "Bobz Bikes" in Kingman, Said they had done all the oil changes and tire changes, but they never changed the gear oil or adjusted the valves.

The problem I'm trying to solve is fouled rear plugs, but I'm not real sure where to start so as not to just waste money on unneeded parts. As long as I pull my rear plugs and replace with clean ones, it runs GREAT for about 450-500 miles. We have had gobs of rain here lately and most rides are on super humid days and evenings, this seems to speed up the fouling process. When it starts dogging at that 60 mph range, I can finish my ride, but when I pull the back plugs, they are both sooty. The front plugs look normal.

After reading all this, do I ever feel blessed. I own 2 '01s with carbs. I've opened up the intake and the exhaust on both, re-jetted the carbs according to the instructions included, and both run perfect.

Pull the enricher. hit the start button. Ride off immediately, and start pushing the enricher in during the first mile. Mileage is mid-40's on both.

Thank you, God!

If the dealer has an EGA and knows how to use it then the procedure for checking the CO% should take less than an hour. The access ports for hooking up the machine are on the underside of each headpipe. If the rear can't be adjusted to specs then it might need an injector or maybe just cleaning. If the CO% is within specs then it could be a problem with the O2 sensor for that cylinder which is also easy to check, that is if the dealer is up on that kind of stuff.

Those injectors are pretty dependable. They can become clogged if the bike sits for a while but it sounds like yours saw regular use.

By the way did the dealer offer you the used Y.E.S warranty when you purchased the bike? Could come in handy if your problem turns out to be an expensive one.