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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing
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TOPIC: Re:Race Tech done, now the wing
#749736
jd750ace (User)
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Race Tech done, now with PICS! 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Just finished stacking the forks. Now gonna mod my wing shock. Trying to get it all together this weekend.
Race Tech setup: 1.1 kg springs, 20mm preload, 3 turns on the yellow springs (64 lb spring set) and added a 3rd vent hole (learned how and why) and 15w 130 mm from the tube top.

We all pretty much know now how to get them apart. Let's look at one of the biggest differences between Race Tech springs and your stockers: Race Tech springs are SHORT!



Assuming you have already cleaned all your stuff, drilled the damper rods and have them back in (you DO have one of these don't you?



Your first mission is to get the upper bushings in all the way. You can see that they seat into their groove in the outer housing.



Drop in the washer that came out between the bushing and the seal.



Then you want to install your seal with the words or part number facing up. Does not matter what brand.



Seat the seal fully, so you can see the entire lock ring groove all the way around.



Install the snap ring. It should lock in with a satisfying snap. Install the dust seal on top.



You'll want to take some measurements while everything is still "dry" I use a flex magnet to hold the emulator by the screw and lower it into the tube with the spring on top.



Lower the emulator and spring into the dry tube. Get yourself a 2 foot stick of 1" Schedule 40 PVC handy!
Put one of the 4 washers that comes in the Race Tech kit on top of the spring. You will end with a washer on both ends of the PVC, so the PVC does not gall when tightening the setup. On top of that washer, place the PVC in the tube, and fully extend the tube by lifting the fork leg. Once it is fully lifted, mark the PVC at the top of the tube. Mine was exactly 11 inches of spacer. This will give you 20MM of preload when you add the other washer and the cap on top of the PVC later. You can just measure one. It's not so critical that 1/16" either way will make a huge difference between tubes. Make sure to cut the tube as square as possible, de-burr it well, and clean that thing out!

Once you are cut to length, this is what your dry stack should look like:



If you have trouble keeping the tube extended and holding onto everything at once, use a large zip tie, nice and tight, around the slider and pushed down against the dust seal to hold it up in place, but check it frequently, especially right before a measurement.



Next post, setting up the emulator.

Please do not quote this monster!!!
 
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Last Edit: 2017/11/28 17:52 By DocShadow.
 
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#749755
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Sounds great JD.
Tell more about the 3rd vent hole. I brought this up a few months back as this is what they recommended for my emulators but seemed like all I heard was crickets when I brought it up. What did you find out?
 
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#749758
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Are you gonna do a how to write up with pics and whatnot
 
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Wing is done now. Write up and pics to follow. Dug into the Race Tech web site and found the vent hole thing is for plushness over small irregularities. Vents off for bumps too small to crack open the bypass (the main valve that is controlled by the yellow spring on the emulator and it's tension. Oldphart, I'm sorry I didn't do this sooner, but I just got into it last night.
Here's the page: http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulator%20Tuning%20Guide

Tried to snap a bunch of pics. I'll try to put it all together when I get in tonight. Packing up to leave work now.
 
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Last Edit: 2014/03/17 19:40 By jd750ace.
 
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Thanks JD!!!
Not sure if that is a new document but I did not see that throughout my travels when doing mine. So the bleed holes control the plushness. I just went ahead and dropped mine in as others had done, but now with this info and your investigation may look at tuning more if not fully happy with them. Did not want to risk opening up the bleed holes without knowing for sure.
Thanks for sharing JD!!!!
 
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
I don't think it's new, but I'm not so sure it was there 7 years back when I done my SV. Got me thinking about knocking another hole in the SV valves at this point.
 
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Keep us posted JD.
I know they suggested that I should use yellow spring, 4 turns, and drill out all 4 bleed valve holes. I just did the 4 turns and dropped them in.
Still a few more weeks until I can actually ride the bike and feel the difference, but easy enough to pull them and drill.
 
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#749827
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Anatomy of the emulator:



If you are going to drill the plate, you will have to remove it. The nut on the bottom of the valve is just a lockut. Use your 3/8" to spin it off if you are drilling the plate, otherwise just loosen it a good bit. Back the screw out that compresses the yellow spring until the spring falls loose (or remove it to extract the plate if drilling) Once your plate is drilled (if you are drilling)turn the setup back together until the spring just drags enough to turn with the screw. At this point, you are ready to set the preload on your valve. They will go 3-7 turns typically. The amount of tension you put on this spring determines how soon your compression damping pops off. The heavier your ride, the more turns you're gonna want. I'm in the 1/8 ton club, and ride most of the year without my windshield. I'm going with 3 turns of preload. If you are a two up fairing kinda guy, or a big 'ol boy, you might want to start at a 4. A quick word on setting this up: The Yellow spring is the heaviest of the emulator springs. The heftier the bike, the more spring you will want here. Since these emulators are used in multiple 43mm forks, they come with blue (40 lb) springs for smaller bikes. You won't need those, or the locking clips that are in the kit, which are used on some KYB damper rods. A pic is included for reference.



The "Other" stuff:



Drilling the plate out. Use a 1/8" drill bit. Clean up well and de-burr the holes.



Once your valve is back together, put about 8 ounces of your chosen fork oil in your tubes and "burp" the bottom of the forks by moving the slider up and down. If you hear it sucking air, add some more. You don't want air below the emulator. It's easier to get out now.

Drop in the emulator in each tube. A piece of coat hanger is handy to fish them down until they sit on top of the damper rod. You can usually see the emulator through your lovely new fork oil. You measure oil height with the emulator IN the tube.
I have this fancy oil level rig made with one of those brake fluid syringes and a piece of tubing zip tied to a long screwdriver shank. Set a zip tie at the oil height you want from the end of the tube. Then you just steady the tie at the edge of the fork tube and draw off excess oil.






Once you have the oil level set, drop in the spring, the lower washer, your pre-cut spacer, another washer, and the cap. Below is my preload of 20MM illustrated. Realize that 1.1KG-MM X 20 MM is 22 Kilograms, or about 48.5 pounds of pressure to push this cap down to start the threads, so make sure you have control of everything!



Once they are on, you are golden! Don't forget to snug the caps when the tubes are back in the lower clamp on the bike, and before tightening the upper clamp.

Oh yea, there is ZERO chance of a front Road Wing preload setup:

 
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#749886
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Re:Race Tech done, now the wing 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
I realize this morning I should have used the camera!
 
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Re:Race Tech done, now with PICS! 3 Years, 10 Months ago  
So there's something useful to read today.
 
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