blue_star wrote:
Will 1700 cams work in a 1600 motor?

NO THEY WILL NOT. Not without being reground smaller.

The 1602 and 1670 motors have a different Rocker arms ratio. It will break your 1602 valve train.

1602 cams will also not work in a 1670.

Also 1670 cams will not clear the holes of the cylinder clearance in the 1602 case setup.

Though if you put a complete 1700 top end on top of your 1602 crankcase... including cams, cylinders, pistons, complete valvetrain, jugs, heads, intake manifold, plus the other pieces parts from a 1700 motor, you can then put Warrior cams in the bike.

USAFretired wrote:
I know there are 3 of us running the 110 big bore, Old Dog, Ultrastar, and me. I have not seen anyone state that had problems. The sleeves for the 110 is the max that the stock cases could handle. Anything bigger requires the cases (cylinder holes) to be machined. That was one big reason I was against the 113ci. To much money to add 3ci.

As far as HC pistons, there was a run of problems with the older Barons wiseco pistons. Some were have the skirts break off on the pistons.

Back on the RSR when a lot of folks were doing big mods, there was a couple of dyno runs on the 110ci. There were just over 100hp, but I cannot remember the torque. I never had mine on a dyno. I figured if I was going to build the motor, I was going all the way.

Patrick Racing 110ci
Patrick Racing Ported/polished heads w/ over-sized valves
Speedstar Cams
Speedstar Roller lifters
Speedstar adjustable pushrods
Speedstar Lifter blocks
Speedstar Roller lifters
S&S G carb
Dyna 3000
Barrett Clutch pressure plate
Warrior starter

I still have the extra speedstar cam setup for a 1600 on ebay. I have it priced a lot less than what I have in it.
I also have a set of the new set of Nemesis 108 pistons with rings and a new set of total seal rings for them if someone wanted to build a 108ci.
Who did your engine work? Can you just send the motor to patrick racing and have them do all the work, get it back and bolt it in?
You mentioned the 113ci, is that a PR option or another supplier?

Orthogonal wrote:
Who did your engine work? Can you just send the motor to patrick racing and have them do all the work, get it back and bolt it in?
You mentioned the 113ci, is that a PR option or another supplier?


I sent my jugs and heads to Patrick racing. My plan was to have it done during the recall. I was not happy with the way they were reassembling the engine so I took the bike back in pieces and finished it myself.

The 113 was only offered by Nemesis and I do not think they are in business anymore. Patrick Racing offers a 108 and 110. Orient Express offered a 108 and a 122, but they said the 122 would no longer be a daily driver. Anything more than the 110ci really does not make any sense to me. I believe Orient Express has went more into the sport bike arena these days.

108 can get nikasil reapplied when they bore, the 110 gets a sleeve in the cylinder as it is getting thin.

http://shop.patrickracingbillet.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Racing_Parts&Category_Code=Performance_Services_Big_Bore_Kits

I'm not going to be just putting the 1700 cams into my bike as they sit. I'm sending them out to Don Pelino who offers a regrind on the 1700 cams to get them to be an aggressive cam for the 1600 motor

00whitelightning wrote:
I'm not going to be just putting the 1700 cams into my bike as they sit. I'm sending them out to Don Pelino who offers a regrind on the 1700 cams to get them to be an aggressive cam for the 1600 motor

I have a 1700 cam set that was reground to the exact SpeedStar Roller Cam specs, from Don's grinding shop via Don. Of course I also have the rest of the SpeedStar full roller cam setup.

Also have an Orient Express 108 kit with the cylinders getting nikasil coating on them again. I'm also going to have the pistons flycut a tiny bit to bring the compression down from 10.5 to about 9.5 to 9.7.

From the look of things, I'll be able to get a buncha power... plus still be able to run reg-ooo-lar gas in it on a B curve on my Dyna3000.

Not going to rework the Crank though... to much expense for not enough benefit, especially since I'm not racing.

00whitelightning wrote:
OK guys, like always i am never satisfied with the bike. I have recently purchased Speedstar Hi-Comp pistons (10.25:1), 1700 cams to be given a hotrod grind from looney, and heavy duty valve springs. Ive been told i will be adjustable pushrods and new lifters but i am not sure where i should be looking for these items. Also, does anyone know what kind of performance changes i should see from these upgrades?? I got all the parts for cheap (only about $225 so for the above mentioned parts) looking at another $250 for the regrind but just trying to find pushrods and lifters. Help please guys!
=============

You should get lifter rec from the cam regind guy because you would think he wwould know what wold be best for his reground cams.

But if motors not going to be spun over 5,600-5,800rpm the std hyd 318 mopar hyd lifters SET/ADJ TO ZERO/0 LASH (to help avoid valve float due to hyd lifter pump up at higher rpm) & you should be ok.

Also,dont forget you need to use a good assmebly paste like cran cams grey moly on new cam lobes and bottom only on lifters ,motor oil on sides of lifters.

Also need to run motorcycler specific oil with proper/higher zddp lvl required for FT apps too or you run risk of trashing new cams/lifters espcially when running hi perf parts uisng heavine sroing rate and more agressive cam/lobe design/profile.

No idle time for 1st 25-30 mins and change oil & filter post the 25-30 mins ft cam/lifter berakin period too.

Get bike situated so you fire it up with you ready to take off with no idle time going for 25-30 min ride to breakin new ft cams/lifters as rec above.

And ensure you run a bike specific oil for lrg aircooler v-teins with ft cams for breakin and post breakin too that has properly formualted with a higher zddp lvl etc required for a normal srvc life in hi perf ft cam/lifter apps.

Scott

HI,
I purchased one of Don's Hot Rod Cam set ups .( Springs , cams , Pushrods )
Questions
1)Is the Adjustable part of push rod installed pointing up next to rocker ?
2) 2 piece push rod tubes (Patrick Racing) anyone have experience with these , ie leaks are they worth the price with Hyd. Lifters ?
3) Proceedure for installing pushrods and checking pushrod ajustment .

Thanks BOB

BOBJO wrote:
HI,
I purchased one of Don's Hot Rod Cam set ups .( Springs , cams , Pushrods )
Questions
1)Is the Adjustable part of push rod installed pointing up next to rocker ?
2) 2 piece push rod tubes (Patrick Racing) anyone have experience with these , ie leaks are they worth the price with Hyd. Lifters ?
3) Proceedure for installing pushrods and checking pushrod ajustment .

Thanks BOB

Are you running roller cams and lifters or flat tappet lifters with reground cams?

HI,
All parts are DON'S Flat Tapet . Non Roller .

Thanks

I don't see the need for the pushrod tubes, once you get the pushrods set you shouldn't have to readjust them, as for the orientation of the adjusters on the pushrods it shouldn't matter but most I have seen are down. I have the roller cams and lifters and will be installing my pushrods with the adjusters up for ease of access.