We are converting my 3 horse slant to haul the bikes if necessary. We have the wheel chocks in and bolted down and adjusted. We have the front D rings bolted down in the best placement we could manage for the space constraints.
The straps are in line with the forks, even a smidge forward of them, and out to the side as far as we could manage. Not as far as if it were one bike in the trailer, but far enough to get the front end snugly ratcheted down.

The concern now, is the rear D ring placement and where best to strap to on the rear of the bikes. I can't load any videos right now, we have maxxed our data limit (we are on exede, our bit bucket is 5 gigs) so the only thing that works is web pages.


We also plan to use soft loops, and run straps from the handlebars and sissybar side rails to the upper rail of the horse trailer for additional lateral support. That is actually how I hauled my virago in this trailer when I brought it home.
I had it snugged up against the front wall at a slant (like a horse would stand in there) and then since I had no hardware for tying DOWN, I tied UP... and basically hung the bike lol, with it sitting on it's center stand. It did not budge one inch the entire 130 miles home, which surprised me considering I had to go up the alderpoint road, and that road is bumpy as hell.

I will say, that my horse trailer, unlike most other trailers, is not on leaf springs, but has a double axle of a different type, which means the trailer actually does NOT bounce. The horses like it better that way... I am sure the bikes will too.

If you have any pics you can share of a bike properly tied down, and suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it. I really want to get this set up right the first time.

I have hauled a lot of bikes by strapping down the handlebars in the usual way then running a strap through the bottom of the rear wheel so it wouldn't bounce. Never had a problem.

Bushman52 wrote:
I have hauled a lot of bikes by strapping down the handlebars in the usual way then running a strap through the bottom of the rear wheel so it wouldn't bounce. Never had a problem.

so you strap to the handlebars? I thought we were supposed to run the front straps through the lower triple tree?

Trailering a motorcycle is completely new to me =) I appreciate the help.

Yeah I would grab the lower triple tree and not the bars put an old rag in there to protect the soft straps. On the rear I hook the passenger peg bracket, it's just to prevent the rear from bouncing sideways to either side. Do that and you will be good to go. Are the D-rings through bolted? They should be for the safest anchoring means.

Agreed, don't ever strap a bike down by the handlebars unless you like to spend money replacing them, as they are easy to bend and crack. The proper tie down method is tie around the forks between the upper and lower trees, and tighten down enough to where the suspension is slightly compressed without being bottomed out. Then on the rear tie off to a point that is "above" the suspension (ie-frame, sissy bar, etc.), and repeat the tightening procedure. This will allow the bike to bounce with the bumps in the road and reduce the forces on the bike itself, but won't allow the suspension to full slack off and risk moving/falling. I've trailered numerous bikes this way without issues or damage. Main thing is make sure that your straps are padded wherever they make contact with the bike to protect the paint and body work.

Cqyqte wrote:
Yeah I would grab the lower triple tree and not the bars put an old rag in there to protect the soft straps. On the rear I hook the passenger peg bracket, it's just to prevent the rear from bouncing sideways to either side. Do that and you will be good to go. Are the D-rings through bolted? They should be for the safest anchoring means.

Everything is thru-bolted. I also have heavy duty D's that are rated at 4,800 lbs each. I used good solid wide washers and nylon nuts as well on the underside, the bracket that holds the D has the square hole for the carriage bolt and acts as the 'washer' for the top side.

I have passenger floorboards so not sure how easy it is to grab the bracket but we will check that out. We haven't installed the rear D's yet, I wanted some feed back first about where/how to secure the rear of the bike, so we could figure best placement for the D's before drilling...

Edit: pics, there are a few more in the album, but these give an idea of what we have to work with.







We are thinking if we have to, for a long haul, the hard bags can come off of both bikes, and be boxed for the haul. This setup for us, is mainly for if we have to evac due to fire, or are actually moving to a new residence. We do tend to RIDE everywhere else we want to go with them lol

I have a 5-10 with a wheel chock up front. I tie the front around the top of the lower forks, just where the fender attaches to the fork. These tie downs run forward about 1 foot to the bottom sides of the trailer. This pulls the bike down and forward into the chock. I run the back straps from the rear floorboard mounts down to the floor and back about even with the rear fender.

The bike cannot move forward or backwards. The front can't move side to side because of the chock and the rear can't move side to side because of the rear straps. The bike's wheels are secure to the floor and the bike rebounds naturally when I hit bumps.

Doc

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I use the engine guard for the front. One strap goes from one side to the other to pull forward towards the floor on each side in front, the other strap goes from one side of the trailer rail, weaves through the guard, then to the opposite rail.The rear is pulled backwards with a strap through the wheel. Then another strap goes from rail to rail through the sissy bar.

I try not to pull it down too much so the bike suspension can still do some work for itself. It can't go forward, backward or fall to either side.

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The best:
http://www.canyondancer.com/

Put your D rings as far forward as possible and out as wide as possible inside the trailer with your front tire against the inside of the trailer. The tire chock you show is also not a bad idea, they work pretty well. Basically, make a triangle giving the bike nowhere to go. I've hauled bikes on 2300 mile trips without tying the back down on a single one and never had one move, even across Wyoming on I-80 which is almost exactly 400 miles of guh-dunk, guh-dunk, guh-dunk, guh-dunk, guh-dunk from border to border.

When we trailer we an I beam type set up of 3 boards on edge screwed together and put under the frame of the bike and ratchet bike down right to boards. No over squating of the suspension or suspension bounce through dips. Lost front fork seals once from over tightening, and tipped 1 over once because the straps loozened after a rebound