No it's not a crap shoot. It does suffer from a desire to blame just about everything from ham handedness to a lack of intellectual acuity on it however.
Shoelaces to tight?------> pumpless
Noisy motor?----> pumpless
My wife left me?------> pumpless
I only got 8000 miles out of this back tire?----> pumpless
My bike won't start with the petcock off?----> pumpless

As Dave mentioned don't mess with the float.
The Grizzly valve is a gravity flow valve with twice the orifice the pump needle and seat has. W/O it, you can starve the bowl under certain WOT conditions.
Venting the cap is a great idea, unless you ditch the rollover valve in the tank vent line altogether, and then, it's still a great idea. Directions with pictures, are on the Tech Articles page.
As far as a filter, just get a ff1203 from autozone.

Use the rear tank mount Yamaha sells for the 650's for the enricher, or make your own.

SKWEARpeg wrote:
No it's not a crap shoot. It does suffer from a desire to blame just about everything from ham handedness to a lack of intellectual acuity on it however.
Shoelaces to tight?------> pumpless
Noisy motor?----> pumpless
My wife left me?------> pumpless
I only got 8000 miles out of this back tire?----> pumpless
My bike won't start with the petcock off?----> pumpless

As Dave mentioned don't mess with the float.
The Grizzly valve is a gravity flow valve with twice the orifice the pump needle and seat has. W/O it, you can starve the bowl under certain WOT conditions.
Venting the cap is a great idea, unless you ditch the rollover valve in the tank vent line altogether, and then, it's still a great idea. Directions with pictures, are on the Tech Articles page.
As far as a filter, just get a ff1203 from autozone.

Use the rear tank mount Yamaha sells for the 650's for the enricher, or make your own.

The enricher mount SP mentioned is about $3 yamaha part # 4tr2637G-00

It's honestly a little freaky that we ended up talking about the pumpless mod because just last night I had a new issue which matches one to which the remedy was going pumpless!

I had just ridden home about 45 miles and stopped at autozone to grab some fuel line. When I went to leave, the bike wouldn't start. Motor kept spinning, but it sounded like it wouldn't get gas. It also pissed a bunch more gas out that valve which I had just routed below the bike thankfully.

This happened again when I made my next stop and I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to get it started again. I tried it this morning and it fired up with zero issues, so it sounds like it's a classic case of the "difficult to start after prolonged riding" bug.

I'm going to yank the fuel pump today, and route it from the petcock, between the cylinders, and into the carb. Is it necessary to run it into that smaller tube that it has now? It looks like a thick fuel line feeds into a thin metal tube (between the cylinders) and then into another thick fuel line into the carb. I'd rather just run the fuel line all the way through and put that slinky material from the fuel pump on it to protect it.

Hopefully all goes well with just swapping it straight over, but if I need to change the grizzly valve I'll do that next weekend.

Why does it seem like every time I fix something I find two more things I should have fixed already? LOL

Your bike is a 2K. Is the original fuel pump still on the bike?

Just use the 5/16 fuel injected rated hose, and run it from the petcock to the carb. I like to put a ff1203 fuel filter form AZ, about three inches or so from the petcock. There is enough of the stock spring hose protector in the stock set up, to cover all the hose from the petcock to the carb.

I got the Grizzly valve last night from my local shop. It looks strange, and I'm not sure how exactly it fits into the whole needle area, but I'm sure it will make sense when I get the carb apart.

Going to put that in and drop the fuel pump. Additionally, John Pm'd me after seeing how browned and discolored my coasting enricher looks, and him and I both agree that it's quite likely that it needs replacing. Lasted 16 years so no complaints really, but this new popping seems quite likely to be caused by that, so I'll order it today and drop that in as well. Fingers crossed.

Also going to go up in the pilot jet, and probably move the needle clip down one to richen up the mixture. I have a flat spot in the mid range that I think could be caused by a lean condition.

NickJFerro wrote:
I got the Grizzly valve last night from my local shop. It looks strange, and I'm not sure how exactly it fits into the whole needle area, but I'm sure it will make sense when I get the carb apart.

Going to put that in and drop the fuel pump. Additionally, John Pm'd me after seeing how browned and discolored my coasting enricher looks, and him and I both agree that it's quite likely that it needs replacing. Lasted 16 years so no complaints really, but this new popping seems quite likely to be caused by that, so I'll order it today and drop that in as well. Fingers crossed.

Also going to go up in the pilot jet, and probably move the needle clip down one to richen up the mixture. I have a flat spot in the mid range that I think could be caused by a lean condition.

The grizzly needle and seat, is designed for gravity flow. All the important outside dimensions are the same. The difference, is the 3.0 hole in the bottom, and the sides are cut off the seat and 2 extra holes added so when the needle does let fuel past, it comes in the sides as well as the bottom to maximize fuel flow.
Height and diameter of the seat are the same. Just turn the seat, so the screw that holds it in place, captures a shoulder.

Ah I see it now, I hadn't taken the part out of the packaging but what I was looking at was that clear plastic cover. I didn't see the needle at all so all that talk about a new needle had me confused. I'm with it now lol

Alright guys, some good news, some mishaps, and some strange (though potentially unrelated) results.

So this weekend I went downstairs to solve an issue I was having with the carb puking everywhere. I got downstairs and realized I had forgotten to grab the Grizzly Float Valve I bought during the week. Had my girlfriend toss it down from the 6th floor to me on the street below. Gust of wind had other ideas. It blew back toward the building and landed on a ledge about 20ft up. Fuck.

Well, I can still remove the fuel pump right? I've heard of people removing it with no other modifications and being A-ok. Off I went, and god did it feel good to take all that crap off there. Here's a before after.

BEFORE:


AFTER:


I should also mention that the loss of the choke bracket seems like a smaller deal than it was made out to be. There are still wires running between the cylinders, both electrical and fuel, and a zip tie will keep all of these wires tidy and locate the choke right where it always was, as you see it in the photo above. I'll leave it like that until I relocate the ignition between the cylinders.

With the carb off (and cold) I used this time to route a fuel line from where the carb was previously puking, to the ground. I ran the crankcase breather line back to the left side of the bike, it snakes down between the clutch cover and pulley cover. Perfect.

Took her out for a ride and she ran great. Also the puking was gone! Both before AND after running. Also no issues starting it back up after a long ride.

At this point I'm satisfied and ready to head back inside and call it done. While walking back to the front door of our apartment complex though, what do I see there on the ground? Grizzly valve. It blew off the ledge and was back in my hand. Conscious kicked in and I decided I should probably put this in now or I never will. Waited for the bike to cool and installed the grizzly valve, being careful not to damage the carburetor's saddlebags.


A quick note, when looking at this photo you'll see two brass screws. One at float level on the right, the other below it and a bit more to the left. The one on the right holds the float on, the one below it holds the float needle valve body (grizzly valve in this case) in. Looking immediately to the right of that lower screw, you'll see one silver spec, the float, and then a black spec. That spec is the absence of space, as this grizzle valve has two flat sides which allow extra fuel into the chamber. During reassembly, be sure that the washer underneath the screw matches up with the float valve body, NOT the flat space as it will have nothing to hold down.

Additionally, the needle that comes with the grizzle valve body has a slight bend in it. I'm not sure which way it is supposed to face, or if it matters, but something to be aware of.

If you're going to do this, remove the bolts holding down the idle adjuster screw. If you remove that you'll be able to rotate the carb upside down. This would have been nearly impossible to do without being able to flip the carb, but maybe someone knows a better way than how I did it. I also used this time to ensure my PMS screw was set correctly, I did 3 turns out.

Onto the strange portion of the results. I'm getting an usual stutter at 1/8 throttle. For example, if I'm cruising at 65 in 5th gear with the throttle off, the bike will stutter or bog down as I begin to open the throttle and then surge forward as I move beyond it. I'm inclined to believe this is a problem with either the PMS screw or the pilot jet, but I can't be certain which. I pulled over to adjust the PMS during a 140 mile trip I took immediately after completing this mod, I turned it OUT another half turn (now at 3.5 turns out) to richen the mixture at that circuit as I felt the slowing was due to a lean condition and some popping I heard during highway riding. It didn't seem to make any difference and the problem persisted.

Is it possible that this is the result of my discolored coasting enricher? I'm planning to replace that as well but wasn't sure if it could also be causing this issue at the idle circuit. (PS: Ignore that black fuel line coming off the carb overflow section, this pic was taken before I rerouted it to the ground.)



Thanks for reading and for any ideas you guys have.

Have you changed your Pilot jet yet? A Mikuni 37.5, would be good.
Check the needle, to see if somebody has installed a multi groove needle, or if it still has the stock needle. If a multi groove, see which groove the clip is in, and what is above and below the needle. See the Tech Articles page, for pics of the needle, and how to get to it.
See what main jet is in the carb while you're there.

Usually when I pull the carb, I disconnect the TPS connector and carb heater wires connector above the pump on the backbone, slip the idle adjuster out of its bracket, and remove the enricher cable from where ever it is attached, and pull all of that as a unit. The carb will have 4 pigtails hanging off it that way.
I loosen the nuts on the throttle cables on top of the bracket on the carb, and leave the ones under the bracket alone, so I don't have to adjust the throttle cables. You can remove the cables from the bracket then, and also from the throttle wheel on the side of the carb.

Now the whole thing is free to go where you want.

Reverse all that to reinstall the carb, taking the time to put some marine grease in the grooves of the throttle wheel.

I've removed the carb heater on both my bikes, and I ran the TPS line and the enricher over the manifold. I run the enricher over the manifold, and use the bracket Davej provided the number for, above.
If you want the enricher in the same place as stock, you can cut the bracket off the bottom of the pump bracket. If y ou look at it, you'll see where you will end up with an L shaped piece, and a hole to drill. Bolt it back where the pump bracket was mounted.