I too have changed from the Yamalube to the Mobil 1 20-50 V-Twin oil. And I used the Wal-Mart oil filter that was mentioned in the tech forum. Wal-Mart has said that they will no longer carry the Mobil 1 V-Twin oil as it wasn't selling that well in their surveys of their automotive sections. Auto Zone did a price match for me. Wal-Mart was selling the oil for $8.35 a qt. Auto Zone has it at $9.45 a qt. Saved myself $5.50 by asking! Can't hurt to ask! Capt.Kirk

PapaTom - We'll be in St. George 8/24 for several days for a conference w/the wife. Will trailer down and day trip out of St. George while the wife does the conference thing. Let me know about your favorite day trips out of St. George and I'll check them out.

Have to think about that one...haven't taken many rides in the past while. I'll see what I can come up with L2R.

Capt.Kirk wrote:
I too have changed from the Yamalube to the Mobil 1 20-50 V-Twin oil. And I used the Wal-Mart oil filter that was mentioned in the tech forum. Wal-Mart has said that they will no longer carry the Mobil 1 V-Twin oil as it wasn't selling that well in their surveys of their automotive sections. Auto Zone did a price match for me. Wal-Mart was selling the oil for $8.35 a qt. Auto Zone has it at $9.45 a qt. Saved myself $5.50 by asking! Can't hurt to ask! Capt.Kirk
DOH!

I'm new to the board... will have a pic and an avatar as soon as my computer savvy son shows me how.

I've been a reader here for a few weeks, and the oil issue really intrigued me, so I'll share my experience.

Before reading here, I did not know about the instruction to avoid the friction modifiers in standard auto oils.

I've been using the regular Mobil 1 15w-50 in all my bikes for many years and many thousands of miles. I buy it at Wal-Mart in 5 qt. jugs for $22 and change. I just change it at the beginning of every riding season each May.

That said... I've never had any kind of slipping clutch issue, or any other problem that could be attributed to having used an oil with friction modifiers in a wet clutch bike.

I wanted to share that with everyone so that if anyone else had made the same "mistake" I did, they won't freak about harming their bike.

After thinking it through, I even decided I wasn't going to change my habit, as it seems to work just fine.

Has anyone else done the same, and had either the same results, or maybe different?

I've been using the regular Mobil 1 15w-50

Interesting. Does it say "Energy conserving" in the API donut?

Musky,

It doesn't... maybe I haven't been using the "bad stuff" after all?

It does say on the front of the jug, "anti-wear protection for performance vehicles," and so I assumed that meant it had those modifiers, but if it must say so in the API donut, then it doesn't have them.

How do you spell relief?

Musky wrote:
I've been using the regular Mobil 1 15w-50

Interesting. Does it say "Energy conserving" in the API donut?

Same stuff I use, the red/gold cap Mobil 1.

Yeh, the 1 qt. bottles have a gold cap, but the present 5 qt. jug has a silver cap, same color as the jug itself.

Another product I have been using in everything for the past 26 years is Tufoil Engine Treatment.

I have literally holed an oil pan in a "woods rod" and lost every bit of oil, so that the oil pressure light came on, and still managed to get it home and let it idle in the drive with absolutely no harm done to the engine whatsoever.

It says that it is safe with wet clutches in bikes.

Oh, it holds the world's record in Guinness as the slipperiest substance on earth. It would seem that your engine will cease to wear when you begin to use this stuff.

Use 1 oz. per qt. of oil with each change.

I have been (and still am) using the old Red Cap for years. It's a different designation that the gold and silver cap oils. The Mobil oils have changed over the years and I'm not sure if the newer ones are equivalent to the older ones.

Doc