I'm going to redo some history, in an effort to recreate some threads with pics now that I've got half a notion how to work Imgur.

The car is a Velorex 562. It is a rather light duty side car, intended for use on bikes in the 40 to 50 hp range, that weight in a lot closer to 450 lbs, versus the pig that is the Roadstar. that checks in at about 700 and change.

This particular car left the factory, with the smaller 15mm axle(a pre 2005 unit). I purchased it from a contact made here on the forum, via Bubbakahuna(sp?)
The po, had added an after market axle/swingarm/tire assembly, that added some strength to the system, but I decide to go back to the wire wheel, so it would match better with the wheels on the Tug.

I contacted Velorex in NYC, and they fixed me up with an upgrade kit and a few extra pieces I wanted to reinforce the frame on the car.
The upgrade kit came with a new brake hub inner that worked with the original wheel and tire. A new swingarm and 20 or 25mm axle, and a much improved damper and adjustable spring. It also had all the necessary pieces to make the swap, such as the larger axle bearings that get swapped out in the hub itself.

I rewired some of the lights, and switched out turns on the bike, so all the turns are LED's now.
The amber light on the fender, is on all the time, but also blinks when the turn signal is engaged. The red below it, works just like the red tail light on the Roadie

Warden supplied me with the needed parts for the retrofitted step. He had an old beat up right footboard and frame I was able to butcher into shape. The factory step was just about big enough for a 3 year old to step on. The half light above, illuminates the step at night. I was very happy with the way it turned out.

After searching the WWW for info, it became pretty clear most who install Hacks for a living, had very few kind things to say about the lighter Velorex 562 frame. They preferred to hang heavier cars on the bikes, and manufacture subframes for the bikes, to carry the forces exerted on the bike by the Hack. Using the input I found, and trying to address the concerns I read about, I reinforced the car frame and the way it fastened to the bike frame. I used both the much disparaged universal Ustrap mounts, and added some 1/4 inch strap ties, to make both sides of the frame work together.
The bike ties to the car at 4 places. I followed the directions from Velorex, and made some adjustments such as increasing the length of the front upper tie to get elevation. I made my own rear upper mount, that incorporates the Roadie's rear board mounting location, and ties to the subframe under the rear fender on the bike.

Anyhoo, here are some pics.



The front upper tie. You can see where it reaches across and captures the other side of the frame.

The 1/4 plate in the middle, several gussets and the angle reinforcing were added by D&D Welding here in Pcola. I pre fabbed the parts, and dropped them off with instructions and they did all the welding. This added about 30 pounds to the frame....and the step.

Bottom rear strap. You can see the Velorex Ustrap in the pic. I used longer bolts, so the strap holes, actually bear on the bolt shaft and not on its threads, and also to allow for the stainless acorn nuts.

That is very nice? it looks awesome

It handles pretty much like you'd expect if you research the web.
It has the typical front wobble when accelerating in the 20 to 25mph range, that clears up after that.
Right hand turns need to be paid attention to, so as not to get the car wheel off the ground. Paying attention to posted speed limits has prevented any problems for me so far.
Left turns are not a problem, but then again, I watch my speed.
I carry weight behind the car seat also. Most cars for bikes the size of the Roadie, weigh in closer to 300lbs. Have stiffer frames, and suspension.

It's not like ridiing a bike. There is no leaning. I use the bars more like a tiller on a boat, keeping constant attention and a decent hold on the left grip. It works fine for me, but it steers heavy in the corners. Many recommend a different tree in the front. Something more along the lines of 6 degree units some use to mod their bikes.
It likes to follow the surface of the road, as far as if the road tips left or right, the Hack wants to go that way also.
On a decent Interstate, it'll run 80 all day long. You just have to be careful, about imperfections on the road surface, because the car wheel is in a whole different world then the bike wheels and exerts that force on the bike.

I really should upgrade the front springs on the bike. The Race Tech stuff in there now, was set up just for me at about 240lbs. I should really upgrade them to something more along the lines of 350lb rider, and maybe add a couple more washers, to enhance the preload.

The car has a brake, but so far, I haven't rigged it up to work. It wouldn't be that much trouble, but what I have right now, works fine.

That's a nice job of beefing up that rig for the Road Star. I never have ran brakes either. The sidecar I have now is considerably heavier, it might need them, that is, if I ever get the rig mounted. It's still sitting in my garage waiting....

I had to almost double the length of the front upper tie like you show in the pic, to get it up to where I mounted it. The po had ran the threaded part almost all the way out, to make it work before.
The plate in the middle, also keeps the universal mount on the bottom rear from twisting. That was one of the complaints from the Sidecar gurus besides the U clamps. The softail frame made mounting the bottom rear one kind of interesting on the bike. It's as far back on the frame as it can go.

The frame on the Roadie, fit the Universal clamps perfectly. The frame had plenty of support in the areas I tied to, even before the cross straps I made did any reinforcing.

I think brakes on the heavier cars, would be a good thing. It's hard to tell now, how much is simple compression in the front from being under sprung, and what is actually the car trying to push forward from momentum when the brakes are applied. I don't think I'm getting as much push to the left, as I am a nose dive under heavy braking

Looks pretty good. it appears that you took a little time and effort to set it up. I set up a few side cars in the past that were similar in weight to this unit. Nice attention to detail as compared to the kits that I was sent.

pc_doc wrote:
Looks pretty good. it appears that you took a little time and effort to set it up. I set up a few side cars in the past that were similar in weight to this unit. Nice attention to detail as compared to the kits that I was sent.


That was one of the things the Sidecar gurus always mentioned. People buy the cheaper Velorex, because "it's cheaper", and "it looks nice" also. They were pretty much put off, by the idea of reinforcing the frame on the car. They really encouraged people to steer clear, of the older lighter framed velorex cars.
I've got right at $3000 invested in the car, and the upgrades. It was the max I was willing to spend, to get my toe in the door. That doesn't include my labor. If I had hired it done, I could easily have had $4500 in the car alone at this point. If I opt for new Race Tech springs for the front, that will be additional. I already have the heavier 1000lb Eibach on the rear.

The step really sets things off, and I'm literally indebted to Warden for his generosity. It may have looked like junk to him, but it was perfect for me.

I also added a Mustang studded rear fender bib(not in the pics. The studs on it, and the rubrail on the car, look good together, and further tie the separate pieces together visually

Because the 1600's have the lower output Stators, I was careful to only be using the front road lights on the car, when I use my highbeams. Even then, I have one of the Roadies passing lights turned off. I can only imagine what oncoming traffic thinks is coming at them, with the two low lights on the car, the fender light shining, and the head light and one passing light(left) shining on the bike.

The PO even included the hardbags in the deal. They had run the rear upper tie through the bottom of the right bag. I was pretty sure I didn't want the right bag in the way, and after trying my stock leather bag, and then the hardbag, I went with the hardbag. The lines on the bag and the car actually go really well together. When I purchased it I was thinking "Paint", but the hardbag smoothed out the bumps in the color issue.

The Longshots on the bike, are the big performance downfall. With the Hack, the tug really needs the low and midrange torque a two into one pipe would add. Plus, it'd be considerably quieter. Anyone riding in the car, will have perfected the word "What?!" after about a hundred miles. As it is now, I absolutely stay in gear as long as I can before upshifting. In traffic, 4th at 55 to 65, is a must. South of 55, and I'm thinking about 3rd. I stay out of 5th, until I'm north of 65, unless I'm putt-ing around on relatively flat ground, and don't need good throttle response.