theshredbaron wrote:
Thanks for the advice guys!

Woke up this morning and remembered I still had the jets that came with my BAK many years ago, so I installed the 170 main jet.

I'll adjust the needle in a moment.

I don't have a 30 pilot jet handy. Any problem if I change the main and the needle first then switch the pilot when I am able to get one (I'm hoping today, but if the local bike shop doesn't have one handy I'll have to order online).

By PMS screw, we're not talking the idle adjuster, we're talking that flat-slotted screw that sits at an angle near the intake of the carb on the left side, right?

One other thing, just pulled my Dyna 3000 to see where the shop set it -

RPM limiter: 5500
advance curve: 30B
retard timing: 12 degrees

I've occasionally (very rarely) had a slight bit of detonation if I hit the throttle hard in a tall gear (although this also seems to happen depending on the gas I use, I always run 91+ octane but I've found some stations gas better than others...)

Do the settings above seem optimal? Am I running a risk having the limiter at 5500 without a tach?

George

George the PMS is the one at the left side of the carb at an angle when facing it. Don't worry about the 12º retard it shouldn't be hooked up it takes extra wiring to make that work and is for different engine modifications. Other than that you settings look good. You should also consider the TPS mod. Roadiedude sells a mount kit for around $25 and it does make a substantial difference. Change the jets that you have and the pilot when you get it. You may not notice much difference with a jet change from 167.5 to a 170 except at WOT but the needle groove change will make a little difference. The pilot change will help with cold start up and low end performance. I also have that little detonation if I'm lugging the bike and give it a bit of hard throttle. I've thought about going to 28B to see what happens.

I run the same HC piston set up with HSR42 carb with Freedom Sharp Curve pipes and a Dyna setup but my jetting is 170 mains, 97 needle 2nd clip, 27.5 pilot, 1.75 turns out and DPR8EA-9 plugs, and a Barons ported manifold and Big Air Kit.

davej wrote:
George the PMS is the one at the left side of the carb at an angle when facing it. Don't worry about the 12º retard it shouldn't be hooked up it takes extra wiring to make that work and is for different engine modifications. Other than that you settings look good. You should also consider the TPS mod. Roadiedude sells a mount kit for around $25 and it does make a substantial difference. Change the jets that you have and the pilot when you get it. You may not notice much difference with a jet change from 167.5 to a 170 except at WOT but the needle groove change will make a little difference. The pilot change will help with cold start up and low end performance. I also have that little detonation if I'm lugging the bike and give it a bit of hard throttle. I've thought about going to 28B to see what happens.

Thanks, Dave. Apologies, read my first post and it wasn't clear - I HAVE the TPS mod - when I had the bike done I remember the guy saying it wasn't necessary and I told him it definitely was, thanks to the advice I had gleaned on the clinic at the time (hard to believe that was 4 years ago...)

I did the needle mod and main jet, I'll get the pilot in and report back once I get a chance to take it for a spin (pouring rain in Toronto today so I'm just going to do some other maintenance - check drive pulley, lube clutch cable, clean brake calipers, clean various shiny bits...can't think of a better day to spend a rainy day with good tunes in the background!)

Cqyqte - thanks for letting me know - what's the logic on the hotter plugs? Cleaner burn?

EDIT: my PMS was 5 full turns out (wasn't touched from time it left the shop 4 years ago) - if I go 1.75-2 turns out on my current pilot (22.5) will I be starving for fuel at idle?

RE-EDIT: miscounted that. It was 2.5. Duh!

The high compression pistons create more heat and if that isn't removed then you will suffer detonation, the Dyna3000 should be set up so that you end up with 32 degree of full advance which is 32B setting. The B range is for high compression pistons. You will also have to run 91 octane always or when you get to a hill you will find it pings like crazy.

Sorry that plug pulls more heat out of the combustion chamber than the stock plug reducing the residual heat lowering the chance of hot spot formation.

davej wrote:
JakeUSAF wrote:
davej wrote:
I would say you can leave the 167.5 main or install a 170 main either will work and install a 30 pilot turn the pms out 1 3/4 - 2 turns. I would also put the clip in at least the 4th groove. I'm running mine in the 5th groove on a hsr 45 with this jetting.

Why at least the 4th groove? I've ran mine on the second groove from the blunt end for couple years now.


Jake I would like to see the actual AFR #'s from your jetting configuration. I'm not saying they won't be OK I'm just saying I would like to see them.I would also be curious to see your spark plugs.

I'm making this suggestion based on the jetting I use and the actual AFR readings I get. I've seen some use even the 2nd groove, but without actual AFR readings I wouldn't suggest it unless they have AFR readings or are getting fuel from some other aspect of their jetting configuration like a thinner needle or larger main/pilot jets. As Curt said there are many jetting configurations that can be used with this carb to get the numbers correct. But the jetting I suggested is the only 1 I know for sure will net exceptable AFR results. Only because I stopped experimenting when I got to this one.

Gotcha. Well I looked last night and I changed to the 3rd clip a while back. I forgot I did that. Also I run a #98 with 170 main and a 25 pilot. I've never had bad plugs since putting the HSR42 on. I change them every other oil change.

AFR I don't need no stinking AFR haha... Really I wouldn't mind seeing my readings either. I thought about getting an AFR this winter.. We'll see

JakeUSAF wrote:
davej wrote:
JakeUSAF wrote:
davej wrote:
I would say you can leave the 167.5 main or install a 170 main either will work and install a 30 pilot turn the pms out 1 3/4 - 2 turns. I would also put the clip in at least the 4th groove. I'm running mine in the 5th groove on a hsr 45 with this jetting.

Why at least the 4th groove? I've ran mine on the second groove from the blunt end for couple years now.


Jake I would like to see the actual AFR #'s from your jetting configuration. I'm not saying they won't be OK I'm just saying I would like to see them.I would also be curious to see your spark plugs.

I'm making this suggestion based on the jetting I use and the actual AFR readings I get. I've seen some use even the 2nd groove, but without actual AFR readings I wouldn't suggest it unless they have AFR readings or are getting fuel from some other aspect of their jetting configuration like a thinner needle or larger main/pilot jets. As Curt said there are many jetting configurations that can be used with this carb to get the numbers correct. But the jetting I suggested is the only 1 I know for sure will net exceptable AFR results. Only because I stopped experimenting when I got to this one.

Gotcha. Well I looked last night and I changed to the 3rd clip a while back. I forgot I did that. Also I run a #98 with 170 main and a 25 pilot. I've never had bad plugs since putting the HSR42 on. I change them every other oil change.

AFR I don't need no stinking AFR haha... Really I wouldn't mind seeing my readings either. I thought about getting an AFR this winter.. We'll see

When you change them is the center porcelain white like is the pic George posted?

Cqyqte wrote:
The high compression pistons create more heat and if that isn't removed then you will suffer detonation, the Dyna3000 should be set up so that you end up with 32 degree of full advance which is 32B setting. The B range is for high compression pistons. You will also have to run 91 octane always or when you get to a hill you will find it pings like crazy.

Yeah I've had to run 91+ octane since I got the bike modded 4 years ago, otherwise it pings.

Should I move to a hotter plug?

Would any of the advice above change considering my cams were modded too?

[b]davej wrote:

When you change them is the center porcelain white like is the pic George posted?

Dave - I guess it went without saying, but I was running quite lean before based on the plug pics?

Can't say for sure, but considering you change duration you may have to tweak them slightly but those settings is where I would start at the least. And yes get the DPR8EA-9 plugs now before you do damage.

I have a spare 27.5 and I think I have a 170 mains in the parts box if you need.