I got that Castrol 10w40 what do you think? I haven't put in yet still not sure

Again , you should be fine. And to clarify something , when I said run it for a 100 miles and drop it (which is a bike and auto habit of mine when doing internal mods), I didn't mean switch it back up to synthetic after that. I dump that oil to get rid of any debris from parts breaking in , and still run Dino oil. Matter of fact , I haven't used synthetic oil for years in either of the bikes in my garage.....I drop the oil at 3000 (or so), so it's not worth the extra coin for me to use it. Look forward to hearing about how she runs. BB

ultrastar wrote:
Thanks for the help guys I ended up getting some castor oil and hope that works thats all they had in motorcycle oil thanks for the help

Boy I hated it when my Mom gave me castor oil.... whoops you mean castrol oil,my bad.

ok, well its been a while since I have been on here and since there is a current post on oil Ill post here... I am getting ready to do my oil change and I am trying to decide btwn Mobil 1 or Amsoil. at what kind of milage are you changeing? Any filter recommendations? I typically change my oil once a year, too expensive (yet too expensive not to) I put 8k on since last oil change... Thanks!

You'll be fine with either one of those oil's. And using the OEM,amsoil,mobil,K&N,and a few other oil filters I can't think of right now will work fine.

Jay, I've got a question...

I assume part of the 110 conversion is boring and honing out the jugs. Are/were you able to reapply some type of ceramic coating after that?

Some shops offer this (Nikatech comes to mind). I was just wondering if you were able to have this done and if not how do you feel about the longevity of the cylinder bores. AT

ultrastar wrote:
I got that Castrol 10w40 what do you think? I haven't put in yet still not sure
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Not if thats castrol 10-40 for pass cars that has fric mods and most importantly very little zddp thats great/required for protection from additonal heat & wear seen during breakin along with proper protection for the R*'s FT cam & lifters too.

But if its conventional castrol 10-40 for bikes you should be ok.

As was already suggested, if its car oil you have get a bike oi that designed for lrg air cooled v-twin like cheaper conventional valvoline or castrol bike oil for v-twins .

After 1st fireup on fresh rblt motor you should change the breakin oil & filter thats contaminated with some assembly lube and small metal contam generated from breakin at 300-500 miles max.

Then i'd refill with more fresh conven oil & new filter and run it for approx 300-500 more miles for total of 600-1k miles with conven oil to ensure rings are well seated prior to going to full syn oil.

Scott

ultrastar wrote:
I got that Castrol 10w40 what do you think? I haven't put in yet still not sure

wow Ultrastar, I'm just surprised you posted this. With your seniority here, I'd figured you've read all the post and oppinions that the knowledgeable members have posted...just saying. Kai

About_Time wrote:
Jay, I've got a question...

I assume part of the 110 conversion is boring and honing out the jugs. Are/were you able to reapply some type of ceramic coating after that?

Some shops offer this (Nikatech comes to mind). I was just wondering if you were able to have this done and if not how do you feel about the longevity of the cylinder bores. AT Buddy I can't answer that one all I know is they take the old inserts out and put oversized inserts and and ream them out

Kai_Sayson wrote:
ultrastar wrote:
I got that Castrol 10w40 what do you think? I haven't put in yet still not sure

wow Ultrastar, I'm just surprised you posted this. With your seniority here, I'd figured you've read all the post and oppinions that the knowledgeable members have posted...just saying. Kai Kai I just wanted to make sure I break this thing and right I almost got $3,000 into this and I'd hate like heck screw it up