Ok...

I have had 3 or 4 sets of tires on since the original shop screwed things up. Tires as part of the problem have been eliminated. I keep up on pressure frequently.

Braking has no baring on vibration. It vibrates while moving and while sitting still... all connected to that just off throttle position.

I replaced the manifold in September last year trying to eliminate all the possibilities. I did the whole gammit...

AIS removed, rejetted, BAK, new pipes, SVS cure, new manifold, anything and everything carb connected or related.

When I had the tires changed last, I had the shop look at the bearings and make sure everything is the way it is supposed to be - and everything checked out a.o.k.

In effort to see if it was by chance, I tightened the fork stem last September as well.

Do you have any friends with a roadstar that has a carb? I would switch out the carb with a friends and see how she ran and see if the vibration still exsisted.

...I have no friends. hahahaha

You know Curt is a carb genius, riding season is here. But I would consider maybe sending it to someone who is a genius at it.

I agree and Curt (as well as several others) have helped me out a lot with this problem. That is why I am starting to think it is something else that was messed with that I am overlooking. With everything that I have done, I cannot believe it is still there...

Your vibration is connected to you applying throttle, whether the clutch is engaged or not, Sitting still or moving. If its not the carb then its engine related. Getting the carb fixed is cheaper then finding out why the engine is vibrating more then its usual vibration....

I had a similar issue at the end of 2013. Turned out to be a loose baffle in my front exhaust pipe. It started when I was over 200 miles from home and in the dark. Was a scary ride because I didnt know if it was a tire failing or if the engine was coming apart or what. A few days later the baffle fell out while I was driving through a parking lot and the vibration instantly disappeared. There was no rattle that I could here, and I could never find it while I was revving the engine stationary. Go through every bit of the exhaust with a fine toothed comb and make sure all the heat shield clamps are tied and everything.

Last summer I had a different vibration, right after getting a set of Commander II's put on. Turned out it was belt tension. The belt was about a 1/4 turn too tight.

One other possibility is that your motor mounts could be causing an issue. Try backing off your motor mount bolts and then retighten/torque them down. Checking all those things are free and could help eliminate things as variables and help ease peace of mind.

As far as carb tuning goes, what is your choke situation on a cold start? How long do you need the enricher out? The pilot circuit is your first 1/4 throttle. A 40 was too big for me, cause a rich stumble when taking off. the 35 was way too lean and I needed the enricher out for miles and miles and had hard starts when warm. The 37.5 was the sweet spot for me. I pull the enricher out all the way for start. Then after about 30 seconds I go down to 1/2 out for a mile or 2. Warm engine (ran in the last hour) only uses 1/2 out to start and goes off after 30 seconds. Hot engine (ran in the last 5 mins) start is no enricher.

I dont remember which clip I have my needle on, pretty sure its either the 3rd or 4th. Check the float levels also. They are immensely important to get right before tuning. Mine were off and gave me all kinds of fits trying to dial things in.

Good luck brother, dont give up!

I think Norske is on the right track with the exhaust and mounting bolts. You say you have Freedom duals, but your sig shows a set of Big Straights. Did you change pipes around the same time you had all this work done? Some members have reported issues with the exhaust creating a vibration. If you don't tighten up the clamps and mounts on the duals in the right sequence, you can put the pipes in a slight bind, which will transmit the engine vibrations back into the frame of the bike. It can also happen if you add a crash bar that attaches to the front motor mounts and don't get the motor just right when you retighten the mounting bolts I'd loosen your mounting brackets just a hair wiggle the pipe just a bit and see if you can take some tension off the pipes, retighten, and see if that helps the vibrations any. If you have a crash bar attached to front motor mounts, do the same for it too.

RedneckRoadie wrote:
I think Norske is on the right track with the exhaust and mounting bolts. You say you have Freedom duals, but your sig shows a set of Big Straights. Did you change pipes around the same time you had all this work done? Some members have reported issues with the exhaust creating a vibration. If you don't tighten up the clamps and mounts on the duals in the right sequence, you can put the pipes in a slight bind, which will transmit the engine vibrations back into the frame of the bike. It can also happen if you add a crash bar that attaches to the front motor mounts and don't get the motor just right when you retighten the mounting bolts I'd loosen your mounting brackets just a hair wiggle the pipe just a bit and see if you can take some tension off the pipes, retighten, and see if that helps the vibrations any. If you have a crash bar attached to front motor mounts, do the same for it too.

+1...I dropped the right Freedom Dual to put on some slutty chrome and I swear it vibrates slightly more now than it did before.

By all means check those things out. Something is causing the vibration when your applying throttle.

As you know, the R*'s have two plugs per cylinder and if one is out of spec, it will create an uneven burn. This is accentuated under load and results in vibration. It can be due to a couple of things.

The simplest is one plug has become fouled or is gapped slightly different. Pull the plugs and check. This has happened to me before and caused the symptoms you describe. It get's worse as the plugs wear.

The other is plug wires; on the R* they have resistors and sometimes those resistors go bad. One bad resistor will cause an uneven burn as well. If the plugs are fine, test the resistors with a multimeter. You'll have to find the specs in the service manual. While you're at it, you might as well test the coils too.

Best of luck and let us know what happens.