old dog wrote:
pastornj wrote:
Only difference is the bore - the swap should not be a problem at all. The larger 113" motor is actually taller with a longer stroke which is one of the fitment issues, but the 1700 is simply a bored our 1600, 98" to 102" Looking at Yamaha mounting specs reveals no significant difference. Have fun

NJ

Just a bit curious, what 113 inch motor are you speaking of???

bill

Strat/Roadliner/Raider motor. 113" longer stroke, taller cylinders, overall taller engine.

Of course, if you wanted the biggest, baddest Roadstar - you'd figure out how to fit one of those motors into our frame AFTER sending the cylinders to PR for the 120" sleeve job & pistons! Then you would have THE bragging rights!

Hi there,
I swapped my 1600 for a 1700 last summer. It was an easy job, the only issue I had with the engine install was the upper mount from the frame to the heads was different. It required some grinding to make it fit around the heads and 3 washers at each bolt between the mount and the heads. If I was to do this again, I would buy an upper mount from a 1700 RoadStar from ebay instead of dicking around with the 1600 mount. I used all the other parts from my 99, including the Dyna 3000 and I used the same settings. I re-used my HSR 42 and I had a problem with my Baron BAK fitting under my tank. I don't know why it was different, but it was. As a temporary fix I made a longer hose coupler between the carb and the BAK and made some longer brackets to move the breather out a little. Then I was able to find a used Maxair breather and I'm now using it. Even my V&H Pro-Pipe bolted right up with no issues.

The engine I removed was a 99 with 130,000 miles, it had been supercharged for a while and dyno drag raced and just plain ridden hard. It started making lots of noise in the bottom end so I swapped it out for a 2006 1700 with 13,000 miles on it.(Ebay)

It was a lot easier to get the engine out than I thought it would be. After I slit the transfer gear from the engine and removed it, I put (2) 7/16 steel rods through the upper crank case mounts to use for lifting and manoeuvring. I used a small scissor jack bike lift with a piece of 2X4 on top to hold the engine up when I removed the last mount bolts. I had 2 guys lift the engine out with the rods while I guided and watched the engine, same thing for putting the new engine in and when the new engine was put in it sat on the 2X4 and jack just perfect, a little bit of a shuffle and the bolts went back in no sweat.

I'm somewhat crippled up with arthritis so can only work for a limited amount of time before I start to suffer, but I started on Tuesday morning and was test riding Friday afternoon. I only had help to r&r the engines.

The real test was when I went on a 3100 mile ride around Lake Superior 2 weeks after the swap, it was awesome!

Just a side note regarding the V&H Pro-Pipe, I had trouble with constantly blowing the packing out so I wrapped wood stove door seal rope around it in the area for packing and secured it with stainless steel lockwire and it's been good for the last 31,000 miles.

Go ahead, do it!

Oh, man, now you're killing me!

Before I'm all done, I'm going to have to do a 1700 for a 1600 swap, too!

I can get a 1700 Warrior engine for $850!

Just go with a different manifold and a carb in the place of fuel injection....

It was a lot easier to get the engine out than I thought it would be. After I slit the transfer gear from the engine and removed it, I put (2) 7/16 steel rods through the upper crank case mounts to use for lifting and manoeuvring. I used a small scissor jack bike lift with a piece of 2X4 on top to hold the engine up when I removed the last mount bolts. I had 2 guys lift the engine out with the rods while I guided and watched the engine, same thing for putting the new engine in and when the new engine was put in it sat on the 2X4 and jack just perfect, a little bit of a shuffle and the bolts went back in no sweat.


Very interesting. I may try this route versus laying on its side for my engine install.

I don't think a Warrior engine will work in a RoadStar. I'm not sure exactly what the problems will be but the heads are different and the exhaust ports are in a different location, I think the upper mount is different as well. What little I do know about the differences is enough for me not to try it.

A 2004 to 2007 RoadStar engine will work for sure in a 1999 to 2003 RoadStar. I don't know if the stock ignition control will work because I'm using a Dyna 3000 with the same settings as with the old 1600 engine.

I used the stock 1999 drive pulley on the 2006 engine/transfer gear so that I wouldn't have to buy a new belt to match the 2006 drive.

I've put on about 9,000 miles since I swapped engines with no problems at all, I'm glad I did it.

It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new bike, plus my 99 was customized to my liking.

I got the idea for doing it that way right out of the manual. I'm pretty sharp, but I would never have thought of using the rods, I would have just grabbed my biggest friend and said "I bet you can't lift that out of there"

Moving the engine with the transfer gear attached is pretty awkward and one end is heavier than the other, it is all much more manageable as 2 separate chunks.

When you order up your seals and gaskets and stuff, there is a large o-ring that goes between the engine and transfer gear. When I looked up and ordered my parts, I didn't see that one and had a bit of a time finding it, I think it was illustrated in the fiche for the crank case when everything else was listed with the transfer gear.
I got lucky on that one because the nearest Yamaha dealer actually had one in stock, I was surprised because typically, Canadian dealers don't stock anything except oil filters and spark plugs and you have to order damn near everything.

Also, the 2004 and up engines use a different nut and washer combination on the drive pulley and the output shaft from the engine to transfer gear, I think it's better than using those locking tabs, but you need a new nut and washer every time you remove a nut.

There is another guy here that is also swapping out his 1600 for a 1700.

If you have any questions, I'd be glad to help.

Aardvark

pastornj wrote:
old dog wrote:
pastornj wrote:
Only difference is the bore - the swap should not be a problem at all. The larger 113" motor is actually taller with a longer stroke which is one of the fitment issues, but the 1700 is simply a bored our 1600, 98" to 102" Looking at Yamaha mounting specs reveals no significant difference. Have fun

NJ

Just a bit curious, what 113 inch motor are you speaking of???

bill

Strat/Roadliner/Raider motor. 113" longer stroke, taller cylinders, overall taller engine.

Of course, if you wanted the biggest, baddest Roadstar - you'd figure out how to fit one of those motors into our frame AFTER sending the cylinders to PR for the 120" sleeve job & pistons! Then you would have THE bragging rights!

Why go to all that? The best bang for the buck is here, http://www.magnacharger.net/ will dust the 120 in a blink.

bill

Appreciate all the replies, but as always other things cam around and not able to mess with the project at the moment. Suppose another time I'll be able to get permission to take on another project, but doesn't look like this is going to be the one. Just goes to show if you can see the other side, JUMP cause you never know how long that bridge is going to hold.