FINALLY DONE!!!!

First and Foremost I would like to THANK the RSC for all the super help you have all been through this and many other projects!! BUT I want to single out TampaSVT, Jamie99 and Mr Shamrock who have tolerated all my crazy questions and NUMEROUS PM's not only did they walk me through it but had a lot of patience with me. THANK YOU VERY MUCH GUYS!!!!

Well Lets See a parts list should be next:

Chrome 14 inch Ape Hangers Handlebars 1.25 inch From Ebay
Handlebar diameter: 1 1/4"
Grip area diameter: 1"
Clamp area dimensions: 1" diameter x 5" wide
Measure 34" wide, 7" pullback, 14" rise
Bars measure about 10 1/2" inside at the bottom
Pre-drilled for wiring, wires already inside for easy pulling

Harley Internal Throttle Control for 1" Handlebars USA From Ebay
Route your throttle cable thru the bars for a clean custom appearance!
For use with 1" handlebars (non-dimpled)
Requires cutting off aprox. 4" of existing handlebar end / easy weld on mounting / must be installed by a qualified motorcycle mechanic / this is a custom Motorcycle application only / full instructions included
Black Oxide finish with stainless steel internal components
For use with all carburetors using single pull cable (cable not included)
Use mesh style cable & outer housing to route thru handlebars (not included)
Accepts standard Harley style grips (outside measurement is aprox 1.194".)where grip fits onto throttle assembly

53" Black Internal Throttle Cable for Harley From Ebay
Fits all stock & popular aftermarket carbs. Cable is finished at carb end with inline adjuster 4" from carb. Trim to fit at the throttle end.
Black throttle cable, casing is 53" long .187" diameter.

Those descriptions were what was listed in the auction on ebay, not my words

Plus Six Inch Stainless Steel Braided Upper Brake line and Clutch Cable From Phat Performance

Yamaha Road Star 1700 Chrome Box Switch Housing From Ebay

CHROME/BLK RIBBED HANDLEBAR GRIPS FOR HARLEY-DAVIDSONS From Ebay

First I had to notch out the stock risers to fit the new bars, the center section of those bars is right at five inches and the stock risers are just a tad more than that and angled so it actually worked out better in my opinion cause if they were to fit you would have been able to see where the bar went from 1.25 to 1 inch this way you don't see it at all and it looks a little better IMO. Used a Dremel and a cutting wheel to notch those sections out. Not a big job but patience and little by little and they finally worked out.

Next to fit the internal throttle housing you have to cut about four inches off the end of your bars on that side, I used a tubing cutter for this, really buggered up the cutting wheel on that but it's a nice clean straight cut and a new cutting wheel is ALOT cheaper than another set of bars if I screwed that one up. These bars are thicker walled than some others so I had to grind the throttle housing down a bit to fit in the end of the bars. Little by little by little so to make sure I didn't screw that one up. I am learning patience at this point and lots of new way to curse my bike. The instructions that come with it call to drill holes in the bars and weld the throttle housing on, I didn't like that for several reasons most of all cause I don't have a welder, so I drilled and tapped the bars and housing and used small allen head set screws to hold it in and it is nice and solid.

Next to run the internal throttle cable, this was easy as can be just slowly pushed it up through the bottom being careful not to push the wires that were already in the bars out. Slick as snot and its in.

Now the hardest part, running all them wires internal.I used THIS THREAD as guidance and it worked just like the man said. No need to repeat what is already written.

I had debated moving the starter button over to the left side where the horn is but after fitting and moving and removing thing on the right hand side I just couldn't bring myself to like the look of the large gap between the grip and the brake lever/revervoir so I just kept it stock, plus that would mean not using chrome that I had bought and I think not using chrome is the Eighth Deadly Sin!!

I did not extend the wires prior to running them in the bars but after. I soldered and heat shrunk the 7 inch extensions on and before re-attaching the plug ends I drilled a half inch hole in the bottom of the riser and through the fork clamp/triple tree (you know what I mean). I took the cable guides and risers off the bike and ran all the wires and throttle cable from the bars and through the risers off the bike, clamped it together and then fed the wires down through to the headlight bucket as I lowered the risers back in the holes. At this point I was actually not a moron and plugged everything back together real quick to make sure all my wires were right and and I good connections. Planets must have been aligned just right that day cause got it on the first try. Tightened everything back up and ran the throttle back down and connected to the carb, using the same routing under the tank as the original ones went in.

After getting that done, I had holes I needed to plug in the back of the starter/kill switch housing where the wires used to run and where the throttle cables used to run. Used allen head bolt caps for the spots where the throttle cables were, and siliconed in a small peice of 5/16 fuel line that I glued a plastic chrome bolt cover to and slid it in the back of that housing. NICE AND SHINY!

Next I hooked up that new upper brake line and zip tied the brake lever back and left the brake reservoir open and used a small syringe and hose hooked to the bleader to push brake fluid up the lines and force the air out the top. Then I filled the reservoir and hooked up a one way brake bleeder that is just a small bottle that you put a bit of fluid in with a hose running inside the bottle to the lid and then another hose connected to the bleader valve and open the valve and pump till your not getting any air, did that on both sides, and then filled the reservoir up again and bled each side several times the standard way to make sure there was not air in them lines. OK GOT BRAKES AGAIN.

Hooked up the new clutch cable routed the stock way, easy as flicking a booger!!

These bars are a bit thicker as I said before so there was no need for glue on the grips, just padded the ends of them and beat them on with a rubber mallet.

Took the beast for a spin, and I was kinda rushed cause a big rain storm was coming on quick but was not gonna wait another day, so I took off. Now you guys who ride without a windshield more power to you but I guess I am just to old and fat and lazy for that mess anymore, my shield is on to stay THAT's for SURE and CERTAIN!!

This is a pretty lengthy and involved mod project but IF I CAN DO IT ANYONE CAN!! Time and patience and paying attention to detail and you can get it done pretty easily.

Instead of clogging up this post with alot of pictures I made a Photobucket Album HERE The pictures are not in the correct order and not all tagged but I will work on that next week, not gonna spend my weekend doing that!! But they are all in there!! Wish I had taken more time to take more pictures but to late now I guess.

Again Thanks to all clinic members for input and ideas, and AGAIN, Tampa, Jamie and Mr Sham especially on this one. You guys are all a really great group.

Looks awesome.

Nice job...


Rich

I think that's so friggin awesome. I wish I had someone around here to actually help me do that. I'm good with electronics, but not yet comfortable enough to something like that on my own.

Aside from that, how do you keep your messenger bags from having their bottoms worn away?

PS - when you have this thread open, in the browser title bar it looks like "RAPED UP!!!!!"

TampaSVT wrote:
Looks awesome.

Nice job...


Rich

Thanks man, really appreciate it and your bike was definately what got me thinking and planning on this one!!

Jonathan wrote:
I think that's so friggin awesome. I wish I had someone around here to actually help me do that. I'm good with electronics, but not yet comfortable enough to something like that on my own.

Aside from that, how do you keep your messenger bags from having their bottoms worn away?

Thanks alot man! if you mean the single side bag it is up high enough and doesn't stick out enough to hit the ground. First time I mounted them was a totally different story. But seriously though, time and patience is really all it takes, if you got the electronic part covered the rest is really pretty easy if you take your time and don't rush into anything, measure and measure and measure again before cutting or grinding anything and even then cut or grind it a little less than you figure so you can always cut again but putting it back after you cut to much is a real B******.

Looks good! Nice job! Always nice when you get done with a job that you did and you know that it looks good

real nice lookin ride

I've got several questions about this that can be answered in the write up I did, so bump a bump a bump!!

That looks clean as hell. I did the same thing to my mirror, smaller looking for some reason but still the best ones I've ever used. Same grips,too. Good for big paws.

Looks SWEEEEEET! Love the color of your seat too. Wanna head north over the winter to give a fella a hand?