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Re:Bike is running fat
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TOPIC: Re:Bike is running fat
#787538
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 8 Months ago  
No it soot because it is all over the brackets and caliper everywhere. And it BLACK as can be.
 
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#793444
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
All righty then. On my 99 R* have torn this thing down and what I found was the following:

Missing spring in the needle jet.
Clip set at 4th position.
Manifold all cracked to hell.
Jet sizes are-170 and others aren't marked
Really dirty carb generally.
Plugs are clean and normal.

So I pulled everything apart and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. I repositioned the needle jet to 3rd position and replaced the spring. I replaced the manifold and surfaced the flanges smooth and replaced the manifold gaskets. I reset the PMS at 3 turns. I put everything back together. So it now has new Barrons ported intake with BAK and Short Shots. Dyna coils and new plug wires. Everything should work great.

stared it up and it took a while to catch. Could not use the choke to get it started but after it caught it needed it for a minute or two. Had to tweek the idle as it was now too low. Lots of smoke blew out on start up. Idled fine and took it out for a test ride. Rides way better than previously. Way more power. But pops after heavy accel on decel. Never did before. Also when starting really hard to get it going. Turns over for a long time before actually catching. Runs great on 1/4, 1/2, and WOT.

Remember, I did remove the TPS before I realized I should not have. I don't think I moved the position if anything but remounted it after cleaning the carb. So how do I fix the starting issue and popping? I have been looking for hours all over the forum but can't find anything that specifically is what I am dealing with.
 
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Last Edit: 2014/07/05 07:41 By Lifeguard.
 


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#793455
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
First off you need to know what size the pilot jet is. Even if you have to buy a new one so you know what pilot is in there without knowing it is gonna be hard to properly advise. It also sounds like you may have a vac leak or exhaust leak. You wouldn't be the first person to install a new intake manifold and not get a good seal at the heads. Also make sure there is no leak at the vac port on the top of the intake. The best thing you could have done with that was to solder it shut before installing it (something to consider it you have to remove and reinstall it)
 
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#793464
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
All of this is funny to me because of my background over 37 years of doing the same job. I work for a Japanese based global manufacturer and we are trained to never modify the factory engineers design under any circumstances.. I mean never unless they send a technical publication for some type of factory recall with a kit of OEM designed modification parts.

I am blessed with having one of our forum masters who lives on the other side of the bay from me. I can hop on my bike and be in his driveway in 15 minutes.
The first year I knew SKWEARpeg he added a filter mod thingy under my tank one day while I was looking the other way and reached for a beer in his garage.

Some months later after many times of him talking about my factory wiring and praising the benefits of another mod, the Erb upgrade was added.

The second year I knew him, he talked me into removing the AIS. We are treading on shaky ground here folks

probably the year 2017 he will have me convinced to evaluate the jetting inside my carb. Ive had a K&N filter for a couple of years now and never used it.

No kidding I have a brand new set of Yamaha OEM Speedstar pipes in the box and they are hidden away to not remind me of the fact that I spent the money to buy them thinking they may be used someday.

About the year 2021 he may convince me to modify the holy grail and remove the pump.

I am poking fun at myself but lots of truth in all of that
 
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Last Edit: 2014/07/05 09:10 By 129drifter.
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
Lifeguard wrote:
All righty then. On my 99 R* have torn this thing down and what I found was the following:

Missing spring in the needle jet.
Clip set at 4th position.
Manifold all cracked to hell.
Jet sizes are-170 and others aren't marked
Really dirty carb generally.
Plugs are clean and normal.

So I pulled everything apart and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. I repositioned the needle jet to 3rd position and replaced the spring. I replaced the manifold and surfaced the flanges smooth and replaced the manifold gaskets. I reset the PMS at 3 turns. I put everything back together. So it now has new Barrons ported intake with BAK and Short Shots. Dyna coils and new plug wires. Everything should work great.

stared it up and it took a while to catch. Could not use the choke to get it started but after it caught it needed it for a minute or two. Had to tweek the idle as it was now too low. Lots of smoke blew out on start up. Idled fine and took it out for a test ride. Rides way better than previously. Way more power. But pops after heavy accel on decel. Never did before. Also when starting really hard to get it going. Turns over for a long time before actually catching. Runs great on 1/4, 1/2, and WOT.

Remember, I did remove the TPS before I realized I should not have. I don't think I moved the position if anything but remounted it after cleaning the carb. So how do I fix the starting issue and popping? I have been looking for hours all over the forum but can't find anything that specifically is what I am dealing with.


1st thing you need to do is to check the TPS at closed throttle. Even a hair movement could be as much as 200 ohms off where it needs to be. You can do this with bike off since you are only looking to set a resistance reading. Just make sure after you tighten the screws, check the resistance again. When I did mine for the 42 carb, after tightening, ohms moved on me by well over 100 ohms. Any way, the service manual gives the info you need to set it correctly. At least 1 probe with a alligator clip end makes it easier, this way 1 probe has a solid connection on a pin, the 2nd probe can be hand held to the 2nd pin while you re-adjust the TPS. I found that too low a resistance reading at closed throttle needs for a richer setting on the pilot screw, and since you are now getting popping, the TPS could possibly be the cause? Not 100% on this, but the TPS does need to be checked since you did remove it.
 
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#793539
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
Thanks for advice I.am going to check the setting of the TPS when I get home later today. It is funny that after all this it appears that I trading one set of issues with another. I don't see how I could have not gotten a tight fit n the intake manifold after spending an 30 minutes flat surfacing it. However it couldn't be the pop s as it never had a popping before I changed the intake manifold. One of the last owners, with very limited mechanical skills, put the short shots on so maybe I should check those gaskets as well. I am starting with the TPS first and work from there. It is the not starting that is the 1st problem.
 
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#793561
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
When you install the intake manifold it is very easy for the o-ring to slip or squeeze out of the groove it sits in. I use a dot of superglue in a couple spots to keep this from happening.
 
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#793576
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
As mentioned, the hard starting, could very well be an air leak. Check the TPS for sure, since you messed with it. Double check everything else you did.

Make sure your idle is at least 900rpms, when the motor is hot.
The Pilot jet size is stamped on the side, and I have to use a magnifying glass to read it.
 
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#794268
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
So after running through all the installation of the manifold and carb everything was buttoned up tight and now the bike starts on the second turn of the starter. Starts great idles fine runs great which is better than it ever has before. But the same issue is coming up. After running and getting up top temp the engine seems to lapse into a feeling and sound like it is running on 1.5 cylinders. It is fine and then bogs down for a short time. Idles fine but then any throttle results in a bog down. This only happens for a short time and then wham back to full power. I wish I could describe it better than that. Anyway, it seems that after intake manifold and carb cleaning teardown I have eliminated the whole intake issue. So I dumped in some Seafoam and will try again with what I have done but it appears that I am chasing an electrical ghost. Could it be a coil issue? I replaced the stock coil and wires with Dyna coils and new larger wires three years ago and it ran great for 3000 miles. No I did not check the obvious with the plugs but it seemed to me that if the plugs were a problem it would be consistent and not very sporadic. Anyone got any ideas? I wish I was going to Celine cause my problems would be fixed in about five minutes I am sure. Maybe someone can give a brother a hand remotely. Appreciate it.
 
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#794413
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Re:Bike is running fat 3 Years, 7 Months ago  
Bump
 
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