It is on the bottom side of the carb. If you put a small mirror under the fuel bowl you will see a small brass screw head inside a recessed hole on the backside of the fuel bowl. That is the PMS screw. Turning it out richens the circuit by adding fuel turning it in leans it out.

i'm not good with carbs, but here is what i'm thinking.
If your carb was set up for a HC and now you are running it with the flaps open like a normal aftermarket AC would be, You are way out of wack.
here is a link to the directions for installing the HC http://www.kuryakyn.com/documents/installation/9420-23MC-1011.pdf
I just pulled off my Kuryakyn HC and went to a K&N. (I did not install the HC originally) The main jet was large, (like a 180-200 had no markings on it) I needed a 172.5 for the K&N (which is basically the ac that your running now)
The pilot was a 35 (K&N needed a 40)
The air jet (inside the top of the carb under the rubber boot) had no markings on it, but the Kuryakyn instructions called for it to be a 1.3 and I needed to use the stock 2.0
I have also heard that they sometimes use a different needle for the HC, so I replaced that as well (the one used with the HC had 1 groove, so it is possible it was a stock needle)
I ended up with my PMS at 2 turns out.
DaveJ helped me get mine figured out. I was getting about 33 mpg with the HC and I got 41.5 MPG with the K&N on my trip last week

I'm still curious about whether this running rich is something new, or if it has always ran rich.

its always run rich but never this rich better a little rich then lean but i pulled the carb apart and it has a 190 main and a 40 pilot jet they look to be mukuni jets

judging by what people are running for main jets im wondering if my main is to large the bike does smell gassy sometimes and i do sometimes smell fuel in the hypercharger but i never have a lack of power or flooding or anything runs like a raped ape no issues at all just running rich

That is how they jet for a HC and it always causes issues of being too rich. Now pull the black diaphragm cover and check to see what size the air jet under there is. OEM is 2.0 and HC has you change it to a 1.3. if it is a 1.3 you need to change it back to a 2.0. I'm not sure about your needle as far as if it is adjustable or not. If it is we don't know what the dia of the taper is. so I hope you understand we are all just guessing here so results may vary. With that said after changing back to a 2.0 air jet under the black cover install a 37.5 pilot jet and a 170 main jet, set the PMS at 2 1/2 turns out. That will be jetting it as if you are running a K/N open air filter. If the taper dia on the needle is close to what a Barons, dynojet or speedstar needle is that should get you pretty close to correct jetting for a 1600. You will still need to pull a spark plug and check for color after a ride and make changes if needed. It is still my opinion that the best thing would be to get a K/N universal or equivalent air filter and a barons jet kit so we know exactly what we are dealing with on the needle dimensions. It don't take much of a change in taper and diameter to throw things off on the jetting configuration.

I did check the air jet when I was in there from what I could see number wise looked like a 1.0 very hard to see the needle as for the number I wasn't sure how to get it out will the white tab on the top of it

And I live at 4600 ft above sea level colorado

The air jet should be 2.0 and to get the needle out use a pair of needle nose pliers reach in and grab the white tab and pull straight up, it is held in with a little O ring so there is just a little resistance when you pull it. There is a little spring on the bottom side of that white tab so be careful to not loose it.

You may want to make sure the Enricher is closing all the way, also.
The altitude shouldn't be an issue. The CV carbs work off of air pressure difference created by the Venturi in the carb throat.