OK, I have a gasket question. The gaskets on the top end (valve cover, spacer, etc.) are metal and reusable. It looks like I'll need to clean mine up a bit because they do have some stuff caked on them. However what are the gaskets on the front and back of the "Crankcase, Cover 3" (the part of the case that you have to take off to remove the cams) made out of? If they're metal as well, I'm assuming I can re-use them. But if they're fiber I'm assuming I'm going to need to buy new ones when I get the cams.

Another question regarding torque specs. The Service manual is pretty specific regarding torque specs, like most of the valve cover bolts are 7.2 ft lbs. None of my torque wrenches are that specific. I have an old Craftsman spring type that you're lucky to get somewhere in the neighborhoods of the correct torque and then I have two Harbor Freight click type. The 3/8" drive has a range of 5-80 ft lbs and using that one, I could set it at 7 lbs or maybe 7 and a little by guessing, but there aren't any settings in between, everything is 5, 6, 7, 8,..... It also has a plus or minus 4% accuracy so even if it had 7.2 it would only be "close". So if I set it at 7 and a little bit, am I going to be close enough to the 7.2 ft lbs for government work?

Thanks.

Be careful not to over tighten the bolts they will strip the threads in the aluminum very easy. Best to find a inch lbs tq wrench even if it is a HF one. I think you will need to buy the 2 gaskets.

Thanks Dave. I'll definitely buy the gaskets then. Any suggestions for good ways to clean the metal ones from the Valve cover/spacer area? I don't want to do too much scrubbing on them and there is some black residue sort of baked on. Tried using some mineral spirits and rags, but they only worked somewhat.

I checked HF's website and they appear to have an in lb torque wrench. I've got a 25% off coupon for Labor Day so I'll try to get over there and pick one up. It'll probably come in pretty handy anyway. I found an online calculator and it looks like 7.2 ft lbs is 86.4 in lbs. The HF one says it goes from 20-200 so it should work. Thanks again!

I'm not sure what you have on the gasket but you can try a little steel wool or a scotch brite pad from the kitchen

davej wrote:
I'm not sure what you have on the gasket but you can try a little steel wool or a scotch brite pad from the kitchen

OK, thanks. I had been thinking about that but wasn't sure if they might wear too much on the metal. I'll just be cautious with it.

Paladin wrote:
davej wrote:
I'm not sure what you have on the gasket but you can try a little steel wool or a scotch brite pad from the kitchen

OK, thanks. I had been thinking about that but wasn't sure if they might wear too much on the metal. I'll just be cautious with it.

The metal gaskets are pretty tough just don't use any course sandpaper on it.

Thinner works good with the scotch brite too helps desolve some of the crusties.

Used some brake parts cleaner and it cleaned them up pretty well. I've discovered that all my gaskets were painted black (very thin coat of paint, but paint nonetheless). The brake parts cleaner caused the paint to bubble up in places on the gaskets. I removed all that bubbled paint and smoothed out edges as best I could. I cannot get all the paint off though. Now the gaskets look sort of like one of those black and white cows for lack of a better description. So I'm wondering if that's going to cause a problem when I re-install the gaskets. I'm planning on using some Permatex gasket sealer so I think that should take care of the problem though?

Paladin wrote:
Used some brake parts cleaner and it cleaned them up pretty well. I've discovered that all my gaskets were painted black (very thin coat of paint, but paint nonetheless). The brake parts cleaner caused the paint to bubble up in places on the gaskets. I removed all that bubbled paint and smoothed out edges as best I could. I cannot get all the paint off though. Now the gaskets look sort of like one of those black and white cows for lack of a better description. So I'm wondering if that's going to cause a problem when I re-install the gaskets. I'm planning on using some Permatex gasket sealer so I think that should take care of the problem though?

The black permatex is perfect. Smear a thin layer on both sides of the gasket. The only down side is it will be a bit difficult to get the cover off next time. It will definitely seal.

Just thought I'd give everyone an update. I've got everything taken apart and just waiting for the cams and gaskets to come in. I was hoping to get them this week and put my R* back together on Saturday, but the parts haven't shown up yet.

On another note, I'm thinking that before I disassembled everything I should have changed the oil (although I didn't realize how bad it was until I disassembled everything). Now it's cold with no way to warm it up and isn't going to drain properly if I drain it and replace it. On the other hand, with all the metal filings in the old oil I'm not sure it's a good idea to start it up, even enough warm it up to drain the oil, once I have the new cams and lifters in it. Thoughts/recommendations?

And for the lifters - the service manual says to immerse them in kerosene and pump them a few times to prime them. Then once they're installed, to put a few drops of oil in the center. I've read elsewhere that lifters today no longer need to be primed like this. What's the proper way to install brand new lifters in our bikes?

I have always used ATF or just motor oil to soak and pump them up before installation. I personally would "NEVER" install them dry.