I've read the manual twice again since I posted last night (the post you replied to) and just noticed that there was an instruction to align some kind of timing mark (page 5-18) somewhere while moving the pistons to TDC prior to removing the rocker arms/pushrods, etc. and I didn't do that so hopefully I haven't messed something up there....

Nothing in the cam timing department is compromised until the actual cams are removed. The gear teeth couldnt jump time any other way.

Line up the dots like the book shows you and as said there will be no issue if you removed the pushrods. Once the cams are out don't roll the engine over for any reason until the new cams are installed.

So just as a general update for everyone, I finally got a chance to look at the cam lobes last night. Exhaust is perfect, no signs of wear. Intake is trashed. It's actually worn through the smooth part and slightly into the casting. The edges of it are slightly jagged as well. So it's time to order parts. According to Mr Tidy's write up, it doesn't look like I'm going to need some of the o-rings and gaskets I was figuring on buying because the existing ones can be re-used. So that frees up a little money. Now I just need to make up my mind whether to buy the used set of cams I found that I don't know anything about now or wait awhile and come up with the money for a set of new cams. That would probably mean waiting until next year to be able to ride again and I don't like that idea.

On another note, I'm told I need to run oil with a high zinc content while the cams/lifters are breaking in. I'm figuring 500 miles? On a related note, I'm concerned at how much black oil and sludge I have in my motor and want to clean that out so I was figuring on doing a quick oil change anyway. Are there any additives that we can use in our motors to clean up varnish & sludge that won't negatively affect the clutch, etc.?

If you're using Amsoil the Zinc content should be high enough. The main thing is to liberally coat the cams and lifters with cam assembly lube. Seems like I've read that when breaking in a new cam to use non synthetic oil like regular Yamalube.

There are chemicals that are supposed to break up sludge but the problem is if it's as much as you say it'll probably end up clogging the oil pump intake screen. I would imagine that screen already has particles of cam and lifter in it.

My engine with 56,000 miles was clean when the recall was performed. Yours with 100,000 should be clean unless there is some other problem - excessive overheating, blowby, etc.

Have you scoped the cylinders yet?

texasscott1 wrote:
If you're using Amsoil the Zinc content should be high enough. The main thing is to liberally coat the cams and lifters with cam assembly lube. Seems like I've read that when breaking in a new cam to use non synthetic oil like regular Yamalube.

There are chemicals that are supposed to break up sludge but the problem is if it's as much as you say it'll probably end up clogging the oil pump intake screen. I would imagine that screen already has particles of cam and lifter in it.

My engine with 56,000 miles was clean when the recall was performed. Yours with 100,000 should be clean unless there is some other problem - excessive overheating, blowby, etc.

Have you scoped the cylinders yet?

Thanks for the info on the Amsoil & Zinc - I was wondering about that and was going to ask the guy I get the Amsoil from about it. Turns out the scope I have won't work with my smartphone for some reason. I think I can hook it up to my laptop and view it that way though, just have to figure out how. That's on the list of things to do this Saturday. I guess I need to find some cheap oil & Filter with high zinc content because any way I look at it I want to run fresh oil to through the bike for about 500 miles, dump it, and then put new Amsoil in. i've always run magnetic oil drain plugs in my bikes so hopefully that has caught most of the metal. This plug I have has a rare earth magnet in it so it's a bit stronger than most. I've been told by an old car mechanic to substitute 1 quart of oil with ATF to clean it up, but I'm not sure what that would do to the clutch.....

Paladin wrote:
texasscott1 wrote:
If you're using Amsoil the Zinc content should be high enough. The main thing is to liberally coat the cams and lifters with cam assembly lube. Seems like I've read that when breaking in a new cam to use non synthetic oil like regular Yamalube.

There are chemicals that are supposed to break up sludge but the problem is if it's as much as you say it'll probably end up clogging the oil pump intake screen. I would imagine that screen already has particles of cam and lifter in it.

My engine with 56,000 miles was clean when the recall was performed. Yours with 100,000 should be clean unless there is some other problem - excessive overheating, blowby, etc.

Have you scoped the cylinders yet?

Thanks for the info on the Amsoil & Zinc - I was wondering about that and was going to ask the guy I get the Amsoil from about it. Turns out the scope I have won't work with my smartphone for some reason. I think I can hook it up to my laptop and view it that way though, just have to figure out how. That's on the list of things to do this Saturday. I guess I need to find some cheap oil & Filter with high zinc content because any way I look at it I want to run fresh oil to through the bike for about 500 miles, dump it, and then put new Amsoil in. i've always run magnetic oil drain plugs in my bikes so hopefully that has caught most of the metal. This plug I have has a rare earth magnet in it so it's a bit stronger than most. I've been told by an old car mechanic to substitute 1 quart of oil with ATF to clean it up, but I'm not sure what that would do to the clutch.....


After your cams are broke in you could run some engine treatment in your oil before you drain it, just don’t touch your clutch. Follow the recommended idle time. If it’s real bad still, you could flush it a few times, grab some cheap 30w and enough treatment, sit it overnight between flushes. Don’t rap the throttle, just raise it and lower easy, enough to get the pump moving the oil around. If all the sludge isn't out but the oil flows clear... forget about it and RIDE!! Some sludge won't hurt anything.

Excellent, thanks! When you say engine treatment, do you mean like CD-2, Bardahl, Lucas, etc?

Paladin wrote:
Excellent, thanks! When you say engine treatment, do you mean like CD-2, Bardahl, Lucas, etc?

Those look like they might be oil stabilizers. Thinking more of Marvel Mystery oil or Seafoam etc.

ATF won't hurt the clutch. An Auto trans has wet clutches in it. A couple guys have run Seafoam in the oil to clean things up. From what I understand there are directions on the can for oil dosage.

OK, thanks. Have been doing some reading and those have been mentioned as well as B12 Chemtool and Amsoil Engine & Transmission Flush.