help, i replaced the stock key switch with a 3 position switch. red wire on batt terminal, grey on ign. other (2) wires on L lug. it fired up with the key on the 1st pos. turned to 3rd pos and it died...and will not do anything...but i do hear a click and can feel a responce with the relay assy. (right side square outer most unit)when the key is turned to 1st pos.. checked all fuses...which are all good. turned key on and shorted across starter relay(with fuses)...it did crank but did not start. any suggestions.

if it cranks but wont start chances are it dont have any power to the coils.

the other 2 wires always have to be connected since it also controls and loops thru the safety stuff. sounds like when you switch to the 3rd position?? you opened the connection to those 2 wires.

And what gray wire? schematic shows no gray at key switch?

its actually brown/blue

i've checked continuity on both the diode & right side relay assy. both failed if i did it right..followed service manual. just hope it's not the ignitor unit.

I've re-keyed my bike in the past and ran into some similar problems, bike would turn over but not fire the ignition. When I did my research, another clinic member explained that the stock key assembly has a resistor in it that must be "in-line" as a hot-wire prevention. Otherwise, someone could connect all the wires together and start the bike.

There is another component that is designed to "melt" if hot-wiring is attempted. It is the diode for the safety systems: kickstand switch and clutch switch. If you turn the key and the bike doesn't attempt to turn over, then that is an indication of safety switch malfunctions. The diode may already be burnt from your attempts, and a new one can be found through Yamaha. However, they need to cross reference the part to other bikes because I think you have to order'em off one of their 4 wheeler model bikes. Otherwise they'll give you some crap like, "you need to order a whole new wiring harness for that little part".

Then, wire the stock key assembly back up, measure the resistance, then wire in your new assembly, and measure the resistance. The difference will be the size resistor you need.

As a disclaimer, I have not done this yet so I don't know what size resistor it needs. This should only require a simple voltage meter and a little math. I have a computer component supply store which sells the resitors for $0.80 each so it's not a huge expense.

Good luck.

just found something that shouldn't be. the ign switch wires..red & brn/blue are hot all the time. i was checking the switch and found it didn't make any difference if the key was off or on. the two wires are hot..

the br/bl should only go hot when the key is turned on. with key in off position the red to br/bl should be an open, they only get connected together when the key is turned on, then that provides the 12v positive to the fuses, and then to the rest of the circuitry. The other 2 wires also get connected together when key is turned on, this completes the loop. goes to clutch switch, then also changes wire color code a number of times as it loops thru different ckts. An open in any of these ckts could cause the bike to shut down as well when put into gear

erbman02:
this being the case...what damage would this condition cause? i even seperated the wires from the switch and together they measure high resistance and after an hour or so lose resistance and the meter needle falls slowly. what switch or unit could the key switch have effected.??

newby wrote:
erbman02:
this being the case...what damage would this condition cause? i even seperated the wires from the switch and together they measure high resistance and after an hour or so lose resistance and the meter needle falls slowly. what switch or unit could the key switch have effected.??

Don't know what wires you tested ohms across. typically a resistance check across something that goes high and drops down after time is usually across a capacitor, when a cap has voltage across it, it will read high, as voltages dissipates it drops down. Try putting the stock key switch back, and see what happens. It's hard to diagnose wiring from a distance.

The blue/black wire goes directly to the ignition module, the blue/yellow loops thru quite a number of things as well as changes color codes after going thru some components. without that loop being connected in all the right spots, the ignition module won't get the signal to start the bike