Changeing tranny cover.What oil/w and how much well it hold.

Transfer case takes .42 qts of SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil.

I used Valvoline 80-90 Synthetic Blend. You'll be surprised how little .42 qts is, it's kinda hard to believe that's all you need to put in.

Thank,s I have changed it befor first oil change.Nop that wasn,t the oil
plug. Just couldn,t remember what oil to put back in. After i posted
this I remebered fill plug.

I use Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube because it's API Service GL-4 compatible. API Service GL-4 is the current spec for the Road* and not all API Service GL-5 gear lubes are backwards compatible to GL-4.

Mobil 1 75W-90 is available at most auto parts stores and is a Roadie favorite.

Good luck.

06MidnightStar wrote:
I use Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube because it's API Service GL-4 compatible. API Service GL-4 is the current spec for the Road* and not all API Service GL-5 gear lubes are backwards compatible to GL-4.

Mobil 1 75W-90 is available at most auto parts stores and is a Roadie favorite.

Good luck.

Stupid question I am sure BUT I have to change out the transfer case oil next oil change (16K) and wanted to know if it is as easy as it seems...drain the transfer case, open the large screw cover, insert Mobil nozzle and squeeze in .42 quarts?

Is there a tutorial on doing this anywhere...for the mechanically challenged

Regards, Ted

Yes, it's that's simple.

The bolt right underneath the plug is also used to check that you have the right amount in the case.

Doc

TMK:

As Doc says, "It's that simple", but if you're still fearful, here's the tutorial:

Place a pan or container under the transfer case drain bolt area.

Remove the straight plug (aka filler plug, which looks like a plug with a large screwdriver slot).

Remove the check bolt (the little bolt directly beneath the straight plug).

Remove the drain plug underneath the transfer case.

Insert the drain plug and torque to spec.

Fill transfer case through the filler hole until gear lube begins to flow out of check bolt hole. STOP filling.

Insert check bolt and torque to spec.

Insert straight plug.

Clean up.

You're done.


Now, does this sound like something you can do all by yourself?

Good luck, brother.<br><br>Post edited by: 06MidnightStar, at: 2007/04/25 19:01

So simple even a cave man can do it!

What's this &quot;torque&quot; stuff you're talkin about?

06MidnightStar wrote:
TMK:

As Doc says, &quot;It's that simple&quot;, but if you're still fearful, here's the tutorial:

Place a pan or container under the transfer case drain bolt area.

Remove the straight plug (aka filler plug, which looks like a plug with a large screwdriver slot).

Remove the check bolt (the little bolt directly beneath the straight plug).

Remove the drain plug underneath the transfer case.

Insert the drain plug and torque to spec.

Fill transfer case through the filler hole until gear lube begins to flow out of check bolt hole. STOP filling.

Insert check bolt and torque to spec.

Insert straight plug.

Clean up.

You're done.


Now, does this sopund like something you can do all by yourself?

Good luck, brother.

Hehehehe...my wife will be thrilled with the tutorial...I have her do all my transmission work Thanks 'mano...you have to understand, when I say I am mechanically challenged, I do mean SERIOUSLY mechanically challenged! I was thrilled to have changed my own oil and helped install a new rear tire last week

Regards, Ted

RoadieFF:

I'm not good enough to know &quot;how tight&quot;, unless I'm using loc-tite.

If the manual references a torque value for a particular nut or bolt, then I'll try to torque it. I have a torque wrench, so I use it.

By the way, I got my Baron Kickback Risers today. He wasn't kidding, they look brand new - no marks, no wear - even the bolts and washers were still shiny!

Anyway, I installed them this afternoon, sat in the seat and tried them out. The rise seemed okay, but there seemed to be a bit too much pullback. I was going to give it a chance, so I continued with the install. The front brake line was tight, even with the handlebars pointed straight ahead, so I removed the master cylinder and re-routed the brake line behind the tree and it was still tight! I then slid the master cylinder over as far as I could on the bar and it was still tight! The clutch and throttle cables were snug with the bars turned to either side, so they would have to be re-routed, too, but they would probably have worked. To use the risers, I'd have to replace the brake line and it just wasn't worth it to me.

Ideally, I probably need a 2-4&quot; rise and 1&quot; or less pullback.

Thanks.