River, I'm anxious to see the readings when the bike is completely warmed up. At hot idle and light throttle cruise.

If it's as cold as I think it is up there though and you're running a BAK type air filter it could be that the enricher is staying on slightly.It'll be interesting to see.

Well Rich, I personally like ecm controlled fuel injected cars and bikes a whole lot better than carbed bike or cars.

The theory is a lot more complicated than carburetors to be sure.

Personally it's not that I didn't believe what you said, in fact I believed what you said.

If the numbers come out at cruise as good as they did today, I'll still believe you.

Its not that I don't believe what everybody says about just mod and go, its just that I'm a tech head. I have been a student all my life and I enjoy learning. If I'm not learning something new I get bored quick.

texasscott1 wrote:
River, I'm anxious to see the readings when the bike is completely warmed up. At hot idle and light throttle cruise.

If it's as cold as I think it is up there though and you're running a BAK type air filter it could be that the enricher is staying on slightly.It'll be interesting to see.

Yeah, I thought about that Scott, it's pretty cold. I rode the bike up to the shop which is about 3/4 of a mile, was in the shop a couple hours.
I should get some good numbers tomorrow. I'll take careful notes from the time I start it up, then I will be driving 6 miles to the freeway and from there I'll ride down to Portland which is 17 miles.

I'll record the readings through out the speed range up to 85. Should be interesting.

Did you read up on the Inovate MTX-L? When I picked it up at the Parts store the guy that got it for me said he had one and it updates extremely fast, He said he really liked it.
You have to calibrate it, but once thats done she's set to do the job.

That is an ideal unit to take the guess work out of carb tuning.

texasscott1 wrote:
ahamay wrote:
I know the spark plugs fire for every revolution one starts the combustion and 360 degrees later it fires again in the exhaust stroke. The other cylinder does the same thing. The lost spark is due to the lack of cam sensors. Do these injectors fire twice per revolution too?
I think you meant once per revolution and yes they do. On the off cycle the intake valve is closed so the fuel sprayed is vaporized against the hot intake valves so on the intake spray most of the total fuel the cylinder gets is already vaporized which, in my mind at least, makes for better combustion.

Also, unlike the 950 or 1300, the Road Star has an O2 sensor for each cylinder which should provide for better mixture control.No, I meant twice per revolution. 2 cylinders. Two ignition pick ups? I personally don't know, I've never had the cover off to look at it.

ahamay wrote:
No, I meant twice per revolution. 2 cylinders. Two ignition pick ups? I personally don't know, I've never had the cover off to look at it.

If counting both cylinders then you're correct. Sorry, I misunderstood as I was only thinking of one cylinder. The engine has one pickup that handles both cylinders.

River, I've read a lot about the MTX-L and if I could afford it that would be the first extra gauge I would add to my bike. With something like that one doesn't need any dyno runs.

I don't know at what point temperature wise the bike goes into closed loop and that could make a difference in what you're seeing on the gauge. I remember riding mine to work (50 miles, 70 mph) once when it was 26 degrees. The engine never did get warmed up even with the stock airbox which pulls warm air off the rear cylinder. I remember when I stopped I could put my fingers on the oil lines and they were just warm and the front cylinder wasn't hot at all.

You should be able to see the difference between acceleration and steady cruise though. At 85 the manifold pressure might be low enough that the unit drops into acceleration mode (richer), anyway you'll be able to see.

Be careful, I've heard that that gauge tends to draw your attention.

One thing may help to warm it up is the road guard chaps I have on it. I just checked the weather and it is supposed to be partly sunny with temps in the upper 40's.

I'll take a pic of the hack job I did of mounting it. I mounted it on the MS fairing.

I have a good Raytek laser thermometer and I'll stop periodically and check head temps on the thing.

There is always the old trick of tying cardboard to the front like we used to do with the old truck, tying a cardboard in front of the radiator in winter.
If I don't come back with any numbers you'll know I didn't take my eyes off it.
River

It just occured to me what you said about the switch. If the O2 sensor is the 4 wire type (heated) and you've wired the switch where it cuts off the heater then it would be best if it was left on.

Because of its ability to heat up to operating temp quickly and keep the deposits burned off that eventually render the sensor ineffective the heated sensor will last about twice as long as the unheated type. Say 60k miles versus 30k miles.

This is especially important on carbureted bikes since they take a much richer mixture to start than the FI bikes.

Just a thought.

This particular sensor is not placed directly into the exhaust stream.

Don't have an inkling of how long it will last.

You've got me now because any O2 sensor I know of has to be placed in the exhaust stream. Now if you're using their exhaust pipe clamp then it's very likely that the exhaust sample will be polluted by reversion. This is a problem often encountered when trying to sample from the end of a pipe hooked to 1 cylinder.