I was hoping to get some feedback on this sprocket/pulley.

geoholl wrote:
I was hoping to get some feedback on this sprocket/pulley.

Well geoholl,
If it's the same diameter it should be the same tooth count.
I know that the 70 tooth is larger in diameter by about an inch.

Thanks..

So, other than having to enlarge the holes in the pulley to fit the R* bolts, what else do I need to prepare for with this upgrade.

Trying to get a checklist together before I attempt this.

Am I possibly going to need to make spacers for the new pulley, or should it bolt up using the spacers from the factory pulley?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

jefe74 wrote:
So, other than having to enlarge the holes in the pulley to fit the R* bolts, what else do I need to prepare for with this upgrade.

Trying to get a checklist together before I attempt this.

Am I possibly going to need to make spacers for the new pulley, or should it bolt up using the spacers from the factory pulley?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I figured I'd wait to see how the pulley I have coming lines up.

geoholl wrote:
jefe74 wrote:
So, other than having to enlarge the holes in the pulley to fit the R* bolts, what else do I need to prepare for with this upgrade.

Trying to get a checklist together before I attempt this.

Am I possibly going to need to make spacers for the new pulley, or should it bolt up using the spacers from the factory pulley?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I figured I'd wait to see how the pulley I have coming lines up.

Pretty much everyone has had to enlarge the holes to fit the bolts. Other than that there's really nothing to prep until you have the parts on hand. Then it's a pretty straightforward procedure.

Thank you Pastor, that's what I was figuring. I'm still keeping fingers crossed that my 130T belt will work on my 2000 R*.

I got my Pulley yesterday, it's drilled, primed, painted, and dipped. I'll clear-coat it tomorrow and should be able to put it on and try it out Tuesday..







George

looks good!

pastornj wrote:
Hit a new record today - 165 miles, still not on reserve - since we were out in the country a ways thought I'd go ahead and gas up - only took 3.29 gallons to the bottom on the neck (which is where I stop since venting the cap). A little better than 50mpg average on this tank and yes, my main jet is still too big but I can't find a 175 or 170 that fits the Yost tube correctly and I don't want to buy a whole set of jets. I think I can actually go 200+ miles on a tank safely, riding two-up.

NJ
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With my bike having a lot lower gearing then the 33/65 setup you guys are switching too just this past wk end i went 180 miles hitting low fuel light approx 6-10 miles prior to that ,that was riding 2up but didnt hit reserve at 180 miles when i stopped for fuel,it took exactly 4 gals of fuel = 45mpg in 25-30% city and approx 70% back roads at 50-55mph riding 2up with bike fully loaded wt wise.

My bike is an 06 silverado thats got pipes & jetted carb with stock air cleaner assembly,smaller 31T drive pulley turning a bit more rpm at cruise speed,stock bags loaded,aftermarket bags on rear rack were loaded,tall windscreen in upper position riding 2 up.

With me riding 2 up (approx 320lbs combined wt)and my bike always loaded down with tall windscreen in upper positon it had a little trouble when on open raod interstate when hitting lrg mountain inclines in 5th gear with stock 32T drive pulley at 70mph having to be in the throttle harder then i liked to make it up the long steep mountain grades even when at 70-72mph in 5th gear which is why i went to 31t drive pulley to lower gear ration a bit which helped more then you would think for the small 150-200 inc in rpm.

But guess that small inc in rpm was just enough to better center the motor a little deeper/further into its power/trq curve that i didnt have to give it 3/4+ throttle anymore to make the same lrg grades with bike fully loaded down with riding 2up esp when riding against stiff headwinds in 5th gear .

So you guys wanting to gear your bikes way up with a 33t drive pulleys and smaller rear pulley for a lot less rpm at cruise must not ride up steep mountain grades riding 2up with your bikes fully lodaded against stiff winds with tall windscreen in 5th gear very often like i do because if you did i bet it would be an issue in high/5th gear being over geared.

Yam headquarters told me that they went from 33T to 32T drive pulley because they found from cusstomer complaints it was geared a bit too high with the prior 33T drive pulley.

But i think when the extra tall gearing can work just fine would be when mostly riding 1 up,no bags or bags lightly lodaed along with with no windescreen or a short one in lower postion which would be a different story where you could benefit a lot more from the very tall gearing that would not be an issue in that case .

Now with smaller 31t drive pulley my bike turns same approx rpm at 70mph that it used to turn at approx 74-75mph with 32T drive pulley so i dont cruise much over 70-72 mph,am pushing 58yrs old so am not in a rush anyway!!/LOL!!

And i know my bikes carb is tuned properly because its not down on power or not by much if any,it starts & runs fine ,gets good mpg,and i have no problem keeping up and sometimes beating 1 of the other 2 R*'s i ride with at times with me riding 2up and other r* i beat riding 1 up so i know my bikes not down on power/perf (or not by much) either.

Scott