No one makes studs like that. What I used are short stainless bolts just long enough to screw into the plastic. But it fools everyone--like you--doesn't it!
Great looking bike!
Did you just screw the studs, er, BOLTS into the plastic, or did you back them with nuts on the other side? If no nuts, any concerns about them backing out over time? Did you silicone or seal or glue them in any way when you mounted them?
And that back tire, is it a car tire? Looks flat all the way across. How is that for cornering? On the highway? Looks like it'd last forever on the road. I haven't seen that except on a drag bike.
The bolt holes are in thick plastic and screwed in so tight (i.e., holes just barely big enough) they cannot back out. They are nearly flush on the inside.
I have an Austone taxi tire
which fits fine (corrects my speedometer to exactly right on), gives me 25,000 miles, runs with 32# pressure, has more traction than a m.c. tire, and lets me corner until I drag floorboards even with a Roadwing on. With that cornering pressure on a radial, the sides of the bottom compress up slightly (remember the pressure is not to the side, it's perpendicular to the ground) so that the tread area of the bottom is still on the pavement. Honestly, if I let you get on my bike and you didn't know, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. It's a favorite tire for R*s since the rear rim is only 3-1/2" wide. I have also sealed up the spokes so I'm running without a tube.
In fact, the rear gives me enough confidence that some days I run a little more aggressively than normal. I can always tell since my mileage (corrected with a gps) dropped to only 57 today. I'm not sure if having the radial on the rear helps that or not. My front tire is a CII rear tire running at 40#.