Nothing to see here. Move along

Doc_V wrote:
BTW... Here's a quick little analogy I came up with that helped me better visualize the importance of fuel level in the float.

Imagine drinking iced tea from a straw.

You have a large glass and it's so full, that when you take those first few sips and you pull the straw away from your mouth, a little extra iced tea squirts out the straw on to your favorite shirt. This would be like the fuel level in your float bowl being too high and causing a rich condition.... The motor cant burn the extra fuel quick enough so it runs rough, fouls the plugs and leads to SVS.

But when you get near the bottom of the glass, it takes longer to bring the tea up the straw to the top. This is like the fuel level in the float bowl being too low. You end up with hesitation in throttle response and a lean condition under high demand.

So ideally, you want the fuel high enough, that it responds quickly to throttle changes but not so high that it runs rich.

That is really a good job of putting into "layman's" terms, Doc. This is a great thread and thanks for starting it, well done!

Motoscooter... that's a good question and I'd meant to mention it...

Obviously I did mine upside down, and off the bike, so it will be interesting to see what you find. However, before measuring, I lightly blew into the bowl. This would cause the float to pop up and settle back down under it's own weight. So I guess I would call it *lightly* seated. I had to do this several times because I'd accidentally tap the float while measuring and I didn't to push it down; making it hard to get an accurate and repeatable reading.

Hope this helps and be sure to keep us posted on your results.

all this talk about carburetor fuel level we still don't have and SOP let me see if I can get this right.
the top of the carburetor needs to be level front and back???? then if using the tube method fuel level should be 4-5 millimeters above the bowl seam measured on the left rear manifold by side of the carburetor which incidentally is the same thickness as the bolt flange.
why can we not get this into a tech article?

Sorry, I never got around to doing the writeup, but yah, that's pretty much it.

Get the bike level... Motorcycle jack it best if you've got it, if not, prop up the kickstand with some wood or bricks. Measure fuel level in a clear tube at the inner rear corner of the carb. Fuel should be level with flange on carb. (=5mm above mating surface)

If the level is incorrect, remove the carb, turn it upside down and remove the float bowl. Set the *float* by bending the little metal "tang" up or down to adjust height. Top of seam on float should be 5.25 mm above mating surface; that should put the fuel level in the float bowl at 5mm when it's back on the bike and measured with the tube as stated above.

...That's the quick and dirty version.

I don't think there have been any new tech articles added for quite some time; but I'd be glad to do a complete writeup if anyone wants to put it on the tech section.

you do not need to remove the carburetor to adjust the float level. I think we need a moderator to do a new float level Tech article

I remember being able to do it on Holley carbs, but how on our bikes?

brianmac wrote:
you do not need to remove the carburetor to adjust the float level. I think we need a moderator to do a new float level Tech article

I know that, "technically" you don't have to remove the carb, but no one has posted a process on how to do it on the bike. If you can provide that, I'm sure it would be useful.

All you gotta do is have the tube long enough so you can pull it away from the carb and drain the bowl in a small clean container. Drop the bowl, loosen the float screw enough to slip the pin and float out then bend the tang slightly whichever way it needs to go to change the level. Then put the bowl back with 2 screws in opposite corners and check again. Once it's okay and the float screw has been tightened properly install the other 2 screws pour the gas from the container in the tank and ride.

I can reinstall the float each time by using one finger on the wire needle retainer to hold it straight up so it goes right in the seat. Make sure the hinge pin is in its grooves before tightening the screw.

Goes a lot quicker than removing the carb. At least for me.

++ on that
here is SOP for fuel pump equipped bikes(stock)(if pumpless, your on your own)
well today i did it. I leveled carb ON THE BIKE, what a pain as my floor jack is off level while low and gets more level as it lifts, what did u expect??? well i pulled fuel tank, PULL OFF TOP CARB PLASTIC COVER AND SLIDE ETC PUT LEVEL ON TOP OF CARB, USE A PIECE OF FLAT METAL TO AS EXTENSION IF YOUR LEVEL WONT FIT IN THERE, lifted bike, had to shim under left side of frame to level left to right, then i had to lower bike onto shims under each tire on floor to level front to back. dont do this alone if your a greeny. you will drop bike, especially if u have have one of those new fangled bike jacks that dont have ears on the end of the lift pads so the bike can slide off the end. put tank on stable table to the left, long fuel line and connector to bike inlet fuel line. after bike is leveled, reassemble top carb, dont forget the spring dude. then hook up the tube to the bottom of carb , loosen the bowl drain and click the key so fuel pump cycles. I like to start the bike and run it while observing the fuel level in the tube at the left rear of the carb on the manifold side. be careful not to blow your damn fool self up with gasoline and exhaust fool. should be 4-5 mm above seam or even with screw flange which is 5mm . it should stay there when running if you have a fuel pump ,
Or you could find a spot of land off level where front to back is level, and have two or 3 guys hold bike leaning to right and do it that way.
anyway its still way easier to do this than pull carb and all the fittings .
to adjust float, see other posts, dont have to pull carb. be gentle. if its close dont muck with it for a dang mm fool.
i have pictures